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 Post subject: Solution to rear sag after Daystar 2.5"?
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:06 pm 
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After having the Daystar 2.5" installed I noticed the rear seemed to be about 3/4" lower than the front. Did not have the time to wait for the mech. to put it up on the lift and start to figure it out, so I just took delivery and figured I would check it out when I had time. Picked up my box of used goodies, paid the tab and hit the road.

Now, a week later, I thought I would see what could be done. Well jacked up the rear, and installed the original spring isolators under the daystar blocks at rear. Tires back on and back on the ground, it looks about level.

My question is, is this the way it should have been installed by the mechs. or did they have it right? I notice a lot of Jeeps that have been lifted seem to look a little low in the rear. Is it safe to leave it this way with Daystar and factory spring isolators as it sure looks a lot better? BTW, the liberty will see mostly malls and such as it is the wifes daily driver. If it was seriously wheeled, the answer would probably be no.
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Last edited by breakerbacker on Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:26 pm 
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The factory rear isolators will be fine and are often used to level a KJ.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:54 am 
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You can even add an extra isolator to the top of the spring if more lift is needed. No problems at all.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:15 am 
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I'm guessing the isolater is the black piece that sits between the spring and the axel? That black disk-type thing?Does anyone know where to get an extra couple of isolators of rthe liberty? Or how much they are from Jeep?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:20 am 
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Yes you are correct. You can pick them up at the Jeep stealership for about $20 a pair (Dont quote me on that price).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:55 pm 
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sorry, another quest. Is there actually an "upper spring isolator" or are you using the one made for below the spring, and just turning it upside-down on top of the spring?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:26 pm 
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Has anyone else reused the spring isolater in the attempt to level out a 2.5" Daystar lift? I intend on doing it tomorrow and just wanted some extra opinions

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:12 pm 
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The upper Iso's are $20 a pair.

Yes, you can use the stock bottom Iso's with the Pucs.

Yes, many folks do use it in addition.

I ran level to a little low for a while, I like my "nose down" slant back though.

Putting your bottom ISO back and adding the top ISO will give you an inch.

There is no right or wrong. The length of that nipple on the bottom plate is exactly the depth of the bottom inside hole in the spacer, thus showing that the spacer was made to be used without the stock ISO. I don't think the minus 1/2" bite makes any diff in durability.

Read this if you want:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... php?t=5861


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:40 pm 
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thanks for the quick reply!!

This might be a stupid question... but here goes, is there upper isolator pad already? also, Do you happen to have the part # for the upper isolator pad?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:50 pm 
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Yes, They all have them.

No, I don't have the part number, just tell them "upper coil spring isolator"

This link shows a pic:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... php?t=5650


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:21 pm 
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So I will be stacking 2 upper spring isolators together?
Using the extra upper and reusing the lower will give me approx. 1"..... correct?

Forgive me, i'm a little slow

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:33 pm 
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correct


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 Post subject: Solution to rear sag after Daystar 2.5"?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:41 pm 
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It's been a while since I have been home to do anything to my KJ, so I have a question for anyone that may be able to assist:

Is there a "safe" procedure to install both lower and upper isolators? I was thinking the same procedure as for the clevis lift or is there another way?

Not having an isolator in-hand to look at, is there a particular way it aligns/sits under the rear spacer?

Finally, does adding an upper isolator go on top of or under the original in any particular way?

Thanks for the help.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:44 pm 
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Yes its safe. (no spring pressure)

Jack it up (high). Put jackstands under the frame so the arms can drop, take off the wheels, loosen the top shock bolts and pull them out.
There is no unsafe pressure on the spring. Let everything sink down. push down further to pull the spring out, Upper isolator stacks on the other one, put bottom spacer on, Put the factory bottle jack just forward of the spacer on top of the arm with a half of a brick or 2x4 cut to size sitting up top somewhere solid and spread em. put new spring in, undo top jack, jack up axle till shock hole lines up, put bolt back in, same for other side, put tires back on, drive. :lol:

less than 1 1/2 hour moving slow and by yourself. probably can be done in 30 min


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:39 pm 
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Many thanks for the help!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 9:25 am 
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Unbolting the rear stabalizer bar will allow the rear to drop easier to get them in also. Many of us here have just left the bar off for added rear flex.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:09 am 
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KJO4 is correct on that advice, The jack way will open it so wide and hold it that the spring slides right in. Heck, I might have pushed my stab bar to the limit speading it, I did not hear anything pop though. Your choice...good luck.


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