Cut Rear Shock Mounts

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:50 pm

Ok guys. I finally got off my lazy butt and fixed my rear shock mount that I bent. Those things hang down really low. So here is what I did. I cut them BOTH off about level with the Control Arm mounts on the rear axle. Then I cut tabs and drilled holes in them for the lower shock mount and welded them back to what was left of the shock mount (the top half that wasn't cut). The end result is that it moved the lower shock mount up about 1 or 1 1/2 inches. That put it level with the control arm mount so if I want, I can weld steel across the shock mount and attach it to the control arm mount. It doesn't look like it is going to bottom out my shock when the wheel is tucked, but I haven't tested that yet. The ground clearance from the rear is GREAT now. I was catching those dang shocks on everything! I'll post pics this weekend.

eyehatetofu · **Posted:** Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:19 pm

Can't wait to see the pics. Mine are pretty ugly right now and need something similar done.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:38 am

rescu2000 wrote:

I cut them BOTH off about level with the Control Arm mounts on the rear axle

Interesting, so will you change to a different shock?

InCommando · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 10:13 am

Yeah, folks doing this in conjunction with a lift could possibly use the stock shocks.

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:59 pm

I probably won't change the shocks. I have a 2.5" spacer AND OME MD springs. So I don't think it will bottom out the shock. But you are right, If you moved them high enough, you could keep the stock shock. The cost to have this done would replace the cost of the new shocks probably. I'll put some good pics up, but the work is pretty ugly. I didn't clean any of it up with the angle grinder or anything. I was just looking to get it done quickly because it was fixing to start raining and I wasn't in the garage.

cmohr · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:56 pm

I've always thought of doing exactly this, just makes sense. My only thoughts are does it affect stability at all, from dampening at a different point?????

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:39 am

Well, everything finally came together for me to get these pics taken and uploaded (weather, time, etc). This is a VERY easy mod if you have a welder and something to cut the mounts with. I would suggest doing it before you bend them up, as you can just reuse the sides of the existing mount as your new tabs.

It doesn't appear to affect stability or handling so far.

You can also see all the damage to the control arm mount. That gives you a good idea how many rocks I hit with the shock mounts. They stuck down another 2 inches.

Sport · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:10 pm

Good job, what do you need a welder for? I would think sawzall what you don't want and drill out new holes to mount the shock?

TexasRock · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 2:12 pm

I was looking at that too... why not either grind them down or cut them off and drill holes. Only thing I can see is how you would drill a hole. Looks pretty tight between the mount and brake drum, might make your holes a little 'oval'...

Any thoughts, ideas???

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 6:53 pm

Look at your shock mounts. The downward piece has the tabs that stick out in front of the square part. That is why you need the welder. Take a look at them and you will see what I am talking about. The shock doesn't mount in the square part that comes down. It is forward of that. I'll try to get a pic to show what I'm talking about...

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:48 am

I'm still trying to get pics. They do not come out good. I'll try to take one of the bent up one that I still have. But think of the bracket as being 'L' shaped. Your shock mounts into the very bottom right part of the 'L'. So when you cut the 'L' half way down, you cut off the part where the shock mounts. The top part of the 'L' is right under the axle. So the shock would not be able to mount into that part because the axle is in the way relative to the top mounting point for the shock.

So imagine cutting the 'L' and then moving the bottom up to overlap the top half of the 'L' and welding them together. You get a really short 'L'

You go from this:
|
|_

To this:
|_

I'll test it out under full axle droop to insure that it doesn't contact the axle, but it looks OK. I moved them forward about 1/4 of an inch when I rewelded them. I basically remounted the shock in the tab and lined it up that way to make sure that it didn't hit anything.

Sport · **Posted:** Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:50 am

rescu2000 wrote:

Look at your shock mounts. The downward piece has the tabs that stick out in front of the square part. That is why you need the welder. Take a look at them and you will see what I am talking about. The shock doesn't mount in the square part that comes down. It is forward of that. I'll try to get a pic to show what I'm talking about...

ok, I see what you did. very cool

KJWildman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:04 am

Very useful mod Rescu. I like the results. This may be my next plasma/weld job.

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:46 pm

I think it is one of the most useful mods I've done so far. I was always having to worry about hitting those things. Especially after seeing Beforedawn mangle one of his. Then I mangled one of mine. Even before I did I was having to be extra careful on the trails. Now I won't have to worry about it. I will probably weld a plate across the control arm and shock mounts to make a miniture skid and strengthen everything more. The rest of my undercarriage is all plated with steel. I might as well :-)r

Cut Rear Shock Mounts

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