CRD Brakes/Rotor: Review Akebono ProACT with Wagner rotors

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

72,300 miles and my brakes and rotors were shot. I had at best 20% material left on the padsn Front rotors looked decent except for driver's side which was badly scored. Rear rotors were in much worse shape which surprised me.

I replaced all 4 today.

I used Akebono ProACT ceramic brake pads for all 4 wheels, got from rockauto
Front rotors were upgraded Wagner vented rotors (these are much heavier than the cheaper options available from advance auto).

Rear rotors were cheap stock wearever rotors from Advance Auto (these are cheap but should suffice)

Performance: After bedding in pads with 10 firm stops from 60 miles per hour (with at least 5 minutes of 55mph driving between stops), braking performance is noticeably better than when new and I am very happy so far.

Pros: Akeboni pads were made in USA <--Yes, that's not a typo, USA made.
Cons: Rotors were China made but fronts seemed to be very well made and heavier than the cheaper options available at the parts store.
Anybody know if US made rotors are available?

Its such a great feeling not have to push the pedal so far to slow down anymore.

jinstall · **Posted:** Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:23 pm

Just a couple of FYI.

When bedding in pads you do not want to press hard on the brakes for the first 150-200 miles. Every manufacturer I have seen puts a warning label in th ebox recomending that you do not use the brakes hard for a certain time frame.

Also the front rotors are vented, no matter which brand you buy, they are vented for the front. The rears are not they are solid rotors, althought I think thye should be vented like on the new mustang.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:19 pm

jinstall wrote:

When bedding in pads you do not want to press hard on the brakes for the first 150-200 miles. Every manufacturer I have seen puts a warning label in th ebox recomending that you do not use the brakes hard for a certain time frame.

Disagree.
Hawk recommends bedding your pads in similiar to what the OP did. IIRC, I did something like 3-4 35-10mph stops, then 3-4 50/60-10mph stops. Then you let them cool and they are 'bedded in'.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Been bedding them in for 25 years this way when ever I did a brake job. Nothing worse than taking it easy on new brakes and not have full braking power when needed..dangerous. The secret is to allow them to cool down somewhat between braking.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:52 am

I've always cycled holding the brake and gas at a moderate speed/brake pressure for a bit, then letting cool (WHILE DRIVING don't pull over and wait as that can warp rotors) and repeat a coupple times. Always worked for me and have great performance out of the box with new pads this way. Just did my Jeeps this spring with a semimetalic factory compound.

My EBC pads for my Corvette actually had a sand like coating on the pad surface for cleaning up the rotors prior to break in of the pads. See Pic:

The "Yellow Stuff" compound on the Vette are far superior to the factory Vette pads. Breaking was GREATLY improved. I may switch to the EBC "Green Stuff" compound on my jeep, but don't know if I can justify the cost for a daily driver at nearly $150 for all 4 wheels)

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I thought about EBC brakes but was already satisfied with OEM brakes and figured my setup was slightly better than OEM (it is) with repsect to performance. EBC pads are pricey and I'm sure they are worth it.

I tow 3000 lbs regularly with our Liberty CRD and the stock brakes were sufficient even going down steep passes in the Colorado Rockies.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:54 pm

Drewd wrote:

I tow 3000 lbs regularly with our Liberty CRD and the stock brakes were sufficient even going down steep passes in the Colorado Rockies.

I hope you have brakes on your trailer. I think the brakes aren't suffice for towing any amount of weight. The way people drive in today's world I've had to get on my brakes several times to slow'er down because I've been cut off. If I did that without trailer brakes I would have been in several accidents.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:36 pm

Both people cant be right. Id like to know what way to break in new brakes is actually correct.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:21 pm

CRD Joe wrote:

Both people cant be right. Id like to know what way to break in new brakes is actually correct.

You should refer to the respective manufacturer for their recommendation. I believe someone already posted a StopTEch link, so here is a Hawk link:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faqs.php#Q5

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:09 pm

I put my new pads in, I drive, everything is fine.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:21 pm

I just pad slapped mine with carquest ceramic at 85k and brakes work like new. :BANANA:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:52 pm

In my opinion, the stock KJ brakes are some of the worst I have EVER driven in my life. This is the only vehicle I've had that actually worries me at times when the light suddenly goes yellow. Any upgrades will be welcomed. The rotors are horribly undersized for a 4,300 lb. truck...as are the single piston calipers that belong on a PowerWheels toy.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:55 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

In my opinion, the stock KJ brakes are some of the worst I have EVER driven in my life. This is the only vehicle I've had that actually worries me at times when the light suddenly goes yellow. Any upgrades will be welcomed. The rotors are horribly undersized for a 4,300 lb. truck...as are the single piston calipers that belong on a PowerWheels toy.

You should try stopping a 1965 GTO 389 tri power with 9 inch drums front and rear without power assist. No, downshifting don't help much. I soon learned not to drive so stupid. If I managed to lock up the brakes through the fade with the biasply tires it sounded like a pack of wild dogs going crazy.

The Libby has much improved braking system.

jinstall · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:13 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

I've always cycled holding the brake and gas at a moderate speed/brake pressure for a bit, then letting cool (WHILE DRIVING don't pull over and wait as that can warp rotors) and repeat a coupple times. Always worked for me and have great performance out of the box with new pads this way. Just did my Jeeps this spring with a semimetalic factory compound.

My EBC pads for my Corvette actually had a sand like coating on the pad surface for cleaning up the rotors prior to break in of the pads. See Pic:

The "Yellow Stuff" compound on the Vette are far superior to the factory Vette pads. Breaking was GREATLY improved. I may switch to the EBC "Green Stuff" compound on my jeep, but don't know if I can justify the cost for a daily driver at nearly $150 for all 4 wheels)

EXACTLY I currently use EBC Yellows on the CRD.

jinstall · **Posted:** Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:16 pm

[/quote]
You should refer to the respective manufacturer for their recommendation. [/quote]

THIS is what should have been said and is 100% correct.

If replacing both pads and rotors then read BOTH manufacturers recommendations for bedding in both parts.

I have been using the same pads and rotors on the race car for 3 seasons and several days at Hockenheimring and Nuerburgring with plenty of meat left on both. Ferodo/Brembo combo.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

I am running Powerslot vented rotors front and rear and EBC Greenstuff 7000 series on the front and the regular greenstuff suv on the back.

I like the greens so far, they don't squeel unless you get the rotors filthy/dusty. Wash the rotor and they quite back down. Stopping is MUCH improved over stock. With the 32 inch MTR's and the steel wheels (almost 100 pounds a wheel/tire now), I don't even want to think how bad it would be stopping without these upgrades.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:47 am

CRD Joe wrote:

Both people cant be right. Id like to know what way to break in new brakes is actually correct.

There are several methods for "seating" or "bedding" in the pads, but the ultimate goal is the same. The idea is to get the brakes HOT and force the new pads to conform the the surface of the rotor. Irregularities between the pad and rotor can cause pockets of hot air to form between the pad and rotor which will lead to "brake fade." Seating the pads helps to remove those irregularities.
Cross drilled and or slotted rotor reduce this effect by allowing those pockets of air to pass through the slots or holes in the rotor.
I believe that pads that have not been seated will develop early "glazing" which will lead to increased pedal effort and that uncomfotable squeeking noise. Glazed pads are easy fixed by removing the pad, rubbing the surface on rough concrete, and reinstalling. But you still need to seat or bed the pads to help prevent it from happening again.

My method for "seating" the pads involves accelerating to 50-60 mph and then braking hard (not emergency braking) down to abut 15-25 mph. Then drive normally for a bit so they cool down and then repeat 3-4 times.

Many peoples driving habits allow them to seat the pads almost daily and a simple "pad slap" works out great. Other peoples driving habits will always cause glazing, but they typically dont care because they drive slowly and are physically unable to hear the high pitced squeak. :lol:

europachris · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:51 am

Is it the brakes themselves or the lack of enough power assist? I did the front brakes recently, the rears have about 25k on them. The fronts were definitely thin and the rotors were potato-chip city. I have a coworker with a brake lathe in his garage (HOME garage!), so we cleaned up the rotors, which had plenty of meat left and installed new pads (Wagner ThermoQuiet).

It stops just like it did when new, which is to say it at least stops.... But, it seems to be more a matter of pedal force and "feel" rather than any lack of real brake power. If I really stomp the pedal, it really stops, but it requires a HARD push and it feels like you're pushing your foot into a bucket of cold molasses. My VW requires much less pedal force and is much easier to modulate.

I do think the domestic automakers under-design brake systems, or at least design to the minimum requirements. Every GM or Chrysler vehicle I've been associated with aside from my old '93 Saturn SL and my wife's old '94 Dodge Shadow ES with the 2.5 and 3spd auto has either burned through the brakes very quickly or warped the rotors. Heck, the current Chrysler minivans are eating front brakes every 12k miles! That's insane!

Chris

Alfista · **Joined:** Thu Feb 24, 2011 5:47 pm **Posts:** 7

Don't ya just love it when someone comes to the party two years late? At least I'm not gonna ask for an update. Just wanted to comment that my 2005 Liberty CRD, which we purchased new, still has its original from pads and rotors at 109,000 miles. The rears where changed at about 100,000 miles. I appreciate being able to learn about which pads you like and why, because the fronts are finally ready for replacement.

My Jeep gained a major share of its mileage running up and down the very straight Interstate 5 through California, Oregon, and Washington (at 70-75 mph while returning 30-33 mpg), but the Jeep has also been asked to pull utility and car hauler trailers many times.

The only thing I don't like about my Jeep's brakes is that they usually stick on when it is parked overnight, parking brake on or off. Three dealers have been worthless at finding a solution. Anyone else had this problem?

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2012 9:50 pm

EBC front and rear slotted rotors with green suff pads. I bedded them in by EBCs standards and thanks to EBCs break in compound on thier pads they are already broke in and working great.

CRD Brakes/Rotor: Review Akebono ProACT with Wagner rotors

Who is online