Help converting over to 1310 yoke front drive shaft

ttwntec · **Joined:** Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:06 pm **Posts:** 3

The dealership told me it was road noise from my tires, a month later I have metal on metal rattle. Front CV on the drive shaft is gone. This and a couple of other problems I have ABSOLUTLY no faith the dealership can fix it properly.

Search front drive shaft and read that its common to change over to a 1310 yokes and run a cardan joint at the transfer case. Called a local reputable drive line shop, they gave me the same information.

Get it back together and run it around the block. Dumped fluid out the front pinion seal. I know there is a crush washer, I have tighened up the nut as far as I can by hand, removing play out of the pinion shaft.

This is all the further I can seat the yoke, red lines show the lip on the seal and the back of the yoke.

Either they gave me the wrong yoke, spicer part # 2-4-4601-1, or I need to tighen it up further.

He said just hit it with the impact to seat it that it is hard to crush the sleeve further.

Any help would be appriciated, thanks.

2002 Liberty V6 with Selct-trac (NV242).

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:51 pm

The yoke on the t-case side needs to be turned down. you can get the dimentions on the cut from the stock yoke. set them both face down and start taking measurements. Any machine shop with half a clue can do it. I believe that it is a 3/16 recess but don't quote me cause it's been a while sense I had mine apart but your on the right track.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:22 pm

You most likely got the wrong seal and/or wrong yoke.As far as the crush sleeve you can damage it from over torquing it,sounds damage may have been done since there is a specific procedure for replacing that pinion(same as replacing the pinion seal) and a new crush sleeve is needed which a whole new headache,the correct yoke as well and a new pinion nut(never reuse the old one).

From the FSM...........

PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake calipers and rotors, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft from the pinion companion
flange.
(6) Rotate pinion gear a minimum of ten times and
verify the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Record the torque to rotate the pinion gear
(Fig. 30) with a inch pound torque wrench.
( 8 ) Using a short piece of pipe and Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion companion flange
(Fig. 31) and remove the pinion nut.
(9) Remove pinion companion flange (Fig. 32) with
Remover C-452 and Spanner Wrench 6958.
(10) Remove pinion seal with Remover 7794-A and
a slide hammer (Fig. 33).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 34).
(2) Install pinion companion flange on the pinion
gear with Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Wrench
6958.
CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum tightening
torque 216 N·m (160 ft. lbs.) while installing pinion
nut at this point. Damage to collapsible spacer or
bearings may result.
(3) Install a new nut on the pinion gear. Tighten
the nut only enough to remove the shaft end
play.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion
rotating torque and never exceed specified preload
torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is
exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be
installed.
4) Rotate pinion a minimum of ten time and verify
pinion rotates smoothly. Rotate the pinion shaft
with an inch pound torque wrench. Rotating torque
should be equal to the reading recorded during
removal plus 0.56 N·m (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 35).
(5) If the rotating torque is low, use Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion companion flange
and tighten the pinion shaft nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft.
lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is
achieved.
CAUTION: If maximum tightening torque is reached
prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the
collapsible spacer may have been damaged.
Replace the collapsible spacer.
(6) Install propeller shaft with installation reference
marks aligned.
(7) Fill differential with gear lubricant.
( 8 ) Install brake rotors and calipers.
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(10) Lower the vehicle.

ttwntec · **Joined:** Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:06 pm **Posts:** 3

spicer part # 2-4-4601-1 is a direct replacement for the yoke that has been bought through Tom Wood's, found a dana PDF manual that confirms it, the only difference was working angle. Just said bump it, ordered a new 2 new crush sleeves through jeep and a new seal. Going to lift the front, remove the wheels and redo the crush sleeve, 18.9-31.6 in. lbs. (3.73 gears)

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:56 pm

isn't there an inner lip on that seal? I had a bunch of problems with the t-case side on mine. never had any problem with the diff side. I'm just thinking you may have ripped the seal at some point.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:58 pm

ttwntec wrote:

spicer part # 2-4-4601-1 is a direct replacement for the yoke that has been bought through Tom Wood's, found a dana PDF manual that confirms it, the only difference was working angle. Just said bump it, ordered a new 2 new crush sleeves through jeep and a new seal. Going to lift the front, remove the wheels and redo the crush sleeve, 18.9-31.6 in. lbs. (3.73 gears)

Then you most likely need the correct seal then.

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:59 pm

the 2 yokes share the same O.D.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:05 pm

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

the 2 yokes share the same O.D.

That may be but are both yokes the same length in the seal area?

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:18 pm

here are the two yokes in comparison. The spicer yoke is a little longer on the seal mating surface. This spicer is the same part number as the one he's using and has been run on a D30a.

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

stump I would have to say that you are right on this one as many times as we have ahd to pull your drive shaft and put a seal in it to get it form leaking

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:33 pm

evil libby wrote:

stump I would have to say that you are right on this one as many times as we have ahd to pull your drive shaft and put a seal in it to get it form leaking

The wierd thing is I have never had a problem with the diff seal as posted above. This kinda boggles my mind. Unless that inner lip is torn.

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

I am thinking that that is the wrong yoke. It needs to have a spot for the shaft to slide in to the yoke like on the T case side or the wrong seal

Help converting over to 1310 yoke front drive shaft

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