This is my first post on the forum. Great job guys.

I've been reading quite a bit, waiting for my account to be approved my an admin and I've come up with a big question or two.

Background: I'm not new to diesels. I currently own a 2000 Ford F250 CCSB 2WD 6-spd with the famed 7.3L (444ci) powerstroke turbo diesel. I've done all my own engine maintenance including oil changes, HPOP flushing, fuel filters, glow plugs, plenum boots, coolant, CCV mod (you guys call it Provent), etc and I really enjoy this truck. She gets 19.5mpg average with a 30% mix of city and 70% highway. I drive about 25k per year and so far my truck has been in the shop twice in 125k miles since 2004.

The reason I'm considering the purchase of a Liberty CRD is for the convenience of a smaller vehicle with the reliability and power of a diesel. I'm the owner of a remodeling company and I drive from house to house taking measurements and giving presentations. All I plan to haul in the Liberty would be sample boards, laptop, and the occasional bin of stuff. I'll leave the heavy/messy hauling to the F250.

So I've read about the "Provent" i.e. crank case vent mod and I completely agree with that mod. When I did it to my Powerstroke, I stopped seeing loads of oil weeping from my intercooler boots and other places in the engine bay. Not to mention that I stopped having to add a quart every 3,000. Turbo = high vacuum. High vacuum on a CCV = oil in the intake. Apparently Ford and Jeep engineers couldn't figure out a better way to do this.

So the "Provent" looks like a must-have mod. Other threads have mentioned other mods such as an EGR mod which makes it "Off Road Use Only." As luck would have it, the EGR is one of the main problems with the Ford 6.0L and many owners over there are "deleting" or blocking it for similar reasons that you guys are.

So what's the best way to disable or reduce the CRD's use of the EGR? Is it major mechanical or electrical surgery? I haven't gotten a really clear understanding of the best way to address this from reading the forum.

Upgrades: What performance or reliability upgrades are being done with these vehicles? Like the SP Diesel or EDGE or others. I'm not looking to twist the axles off for performance. I just know what I've gotten out of my powerstroke by adding a performance module. Power+Torque+MPG's. Doesn't seem right but it's true. My goals would be to improve throttle response, passing power, and MPG's. I've also heard that one of these modules helped quiet down the diesel clatter at idle.

BIG QUESTION: Is this truck worth owning? Being a Chrysler product, the parts aren't cheap. Do they break down a lot? If I put 125K on one of these, what can I expect to spend on repairs outside of regular maintenance? I can't afford to have one of these staying in the shop all the time.

Any issues with running good clean biodiesel if the MAP and EGR and CCV issues are properly handled?

Overall, I think the vehicle is attactive. I think its the right size for my needs. I definitely like the 4wd.

Honest feedback is what I'm asking for. If this truck is a POS, I don't want to tie my money up in a truck full of headaches. Know what I mean? Jeep and Chrysler don't exactly have the market cornered on reliability.

I sincerely appreciate any comments, suggestions, advice, personal experience here. If I'm about to drop $15k or more on a vehicle, I'd rather benefit from the experience of owners like you guys.

Thanks a million.

A Blythe
info AT dfwbiofuels DOT org
Denton, Texas

As you've found the Liberty CRD is one of a kind in the US

Have you ever put a timing belt on? It's due at 100k.
GDE has a solution that takes care of several things at once with their tune. If you get it that might be the first "mod" you consider
The torque converter and fuel systems are weak points. A Dodge/Cummins intank lift pump resolves air leaks in fuellines problem and Chrysler has a new improved torque converter. But GDE's Eco tune works around the troublesome rpm area of the original TC.

I understand some Chrysler parts in general are hard to get and the CRD is no different. Be prepared to do all your own wrenching with help from LOST and life will be good.

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Yep. And a water pump. And other stuff. That doesn't intimidate me too much.



Eek. A Torque Converter issue. I bet a failure there is off the charts FUBAR'd. What's involved with a GDE tune? Does that also help resolve the EGR issue or is that addressed with something else?

Is the CRD considered difficult to work on, easy, or moderate?

Thanks Joe for your comments.

The torque converters shudder before they let go. The shuddering is why Chrysler reprogrammed the ECM and TCM (seperate computers). For the most part it eliminates shutter on stock engines. The shudder is the compressig then bouncing of the springs in the TC that causes the lockup clutch to slip. So you get a warning.

The new TC eliminates the problem as it's for the newer VM engines the rest of the world getts in Jeeps and it has about 100 foot pounds more torque. My rear main seal is in the early stage of of leaking and the tranny needs to be pulled for that. I have a extended warranty on mine that will cover that and some dealers will put in the new TC if you pay for the TC and they are around $300 online. Transmissions are the same that are behing the HEMI engines and are doing very well and only one or two maybe on here have had problems.

I would not consider them any harder to work on then any newer car. Just different. The best source of help is here on LOST. Most problems have already been identified and cured one way or another.

Joe

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

If you unplug the MAF it will disable the egr, is the quickest and cheapest(read: free) way to do it, but will throw a CEL all the time the MAF is unplugged.



It funny that you say that, it sounds like your a ford man, and not that I am offended, and not that I mean to offend you, but those were my thoughts on the ford products I owned prior to switching to Jeep.

I always had to replace expensive parts on fords, and cheap parts on Jeeps. I came from having to fix the most asinine problems all the time on fords, to not having to fix anything on Jeeps. That being said, my impression is that Chrysler products are more reliable than Ford products.

The best fixes for the CRD are cheap/free(ORM - unplug MAF to disable EGR, EHM - elephant hose, just a vent unlike a capture like a provent), if the TC becomes a problem its a fairly cheap fix - $220 for a new TC.

The CRD is a pretty solid vehicle, and very useful being a small suv with a diesel. I say go for it, I doubt you will be disappointed.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I've been happy with the last 78,000 miles on my 05.

_________________
2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Sir Sam,

If you guys are happy with your Jeeps, that's excellent. If the Jeeps have stayed out of the shop, then that's a good sign and one of the most important for me. Good feedback.

All,

Is anyone here running biodiesel or a biodiesel/petrodiesel blend in their CRD's?

So if I'm going out looking for one, what should I be looking for? Is there any difference between the '05 and '06?

If you were to go out and test drive a candidate, what would you do or look for? What would you inspect? Any "biggies" to watch out for?

Very nice. Thanks for the info. So I read that this retuning of the main computer will help with several issues regarding reliability, performance, and fuel efficiency. Interesting. If I buy a CRD Liberty, that will likely be the first mod.

Lots of people run biodiesel, homemade or store bought, on a regular bases, it runs just fine. Some people even run WVO or SVO with two tank systems.

06's had ESP, 05's didn't, I prefer without esp.

The only other thing to look for would be to get a CRD without the F37 recall done. This recall affects the shift points and depending on your driving can reduce your gas mileage and kill some of the power. The F37 cannot be undone - much like neutering.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Did the recall apply to all '05 and '06 models? I was reading somewhere that the F37 was for the earlier '05 and it included a torque converter replacement. I just did a quick search. What have you guys seen.

Thanks for the advice on the F37 recall.

IIRC most 06's came with the shift points changed. Basically if you find a crd, and it turns out the F37 has not been done, then its a bonus, but at this point most of them have had the F37 done, so there's not much you can do except keep looking. IMO, the F37 isn't a deal breaker, but it is nice when it has not been done.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

A number of us run biodiesel. Jeep sent the CRDs from the factory with B5 and eventually said that concentrations of up to B20 were perfectly fine.

That being said, I've run B99 before and some folks have run B100 since day one without any issues. Just make sure it's good, clean biofuel.

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

I agree with the others..

my wifes has run a blend from D100 to B100. I make my own and run it in 3 other vehicles.

the biggest pain in the butt just happened..the CP3 died?? why don't know yet. biodiesel related? don't know..when I do know I post the results. I'm sure others want to know.

if you have to buy a new one they cost a pretty penny..make C notes..
hard to change..no but it does require removing the timing belt..

other big issue not listed..fuel filter head..the heater plug tend to leak.

I replaced ours with a Racor setup and installed a lift pump.

-dkenny

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84 BB school bus, DD8.2L turbo ->the transmission died..too expensive to fix..it'll be heading to the scrap yard..4/11)..Bus gone to Scarp 8/23/11
06 Liberty CRD
'99 dodge ram 2500 quad cab, 4x4, 24v
all Biodiesel powered when its warm enough