Ok guys in a little jam. Got a 06 Lib CRD sport with 4 wheel disc breaks. Which way do you turn the rear sproket (up or down) to loosen the e break pads so you can remove the rotor?

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
MH Provent

I just did this last march and don't remember...

I'm at work or I'd pop a wheel off adn take a quick look to refresh my memory.
I'll check the thread after I get home (not till 7pm mountain time) and see If you've got it by then.

-Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

This is what manual says...doesn't say much:

REAR DISC BRAKE PADS

REMOVAL


Raise and support vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
Compress the caliper (1).
Remove the caliper slide pin bolts. NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper assembly.
Remove the caliper by tilting the top up and off the caliper adapter (Fig. 10).
Support and hang the caliper.
Remove the inboard brake pad (1) from the caliper (Fig. 11).
Remove the outboard brake pad (2) from the caliper (Fig. 11).

INSTALLATION

Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and caliper piston. Bottom piston in the caliper bore with C-clamp.
Clean caliper mounting adapter (4) and anti-rattle spring guide (3).
Lubricate anti-rattle spring guides (3) with Mopar brake grease.
Install anti-rattle spring guides (3). NOTE: Anti-rattle spring guides (3) are not interchangeable.
Install inboard brake pad (1) to the caliper (Fig. 12).
Install outboard brake pad (2) to the caliper (Fig. 12).
Tilt the top of the caliper over rotor and under adapter. Then push the bottom of the caliper down onto the adapter (4) (Fig. 12).
Install caliper (1) to the rotor and then install the caliper slide pin bolts.
Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower vehicle.
Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pistons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
Top off master cylinder fluid level.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

unfortunately that doesn't address changing the rotors.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
MH Provent

Ahh, found the parking brake section...still not much info. Are you talking about the little brake adjustor with the teeth?

SHOES

REMOVAL


Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the disc brake caliper, (Fig. 77).
Remove the disc brake rotor, (Fig. 77).
Disassemble the rear park brake shoes (2) (Fig. 78).
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
Clean the individual brake components, including the support plate exterior, with a water dampened cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not use any other cleaning agents. Remove light rust and scale from the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate with fine sandpaper.

INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
As a general rule, riveted brake shoes should be replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 inch) of the rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 inch).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes exhibiting contact only on one side should be replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper (Fig. 79).

Inspect the adjuster screw assembly (6). Replace the assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged, or the components are severely rusted or corroded (Fig. 79).

Discard the brake springs (4) and retainer components if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Overheating will distort and weaken the springs.

Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate (1), replace the support plate (1) if any of the pads are worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is bent or distorted (Fig. 79).

INSTALLATION

NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lining replacement, it is recommended that the parking brake system be conditioned prior to use. This is done by making one stop from 25 mph on dry pavement or concrete using light to moderate force on the parking brake lever.
Reassemble the rear park brake shoes (2) (Fig. 80).

Adjust the rear brake shoes (5) (Fig. 81).
Install the disc brake rotor.
Install the disc brake caliper.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I'm sure you've done this, but the E-brake is not engaged right? The brake adjustor that has the teeth that automatically adjusts gets pushed by the lever. It rotates tighter the direction of the teeth. Turn it the opposite way to disengage. Its left hand thread on one side and other side is right hand thread I believe. Just go opposite way teeth would push it to tighten it with the lever.

Hope that makes sense.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

You can also try twisting the rotor as you pull evenly on it to try to get it off. I don't think I had to adjust anything to get it off. You shouldn't unless it has worn down into the drum of th erotor and created a bit of a lip. If this is the case, make sure you get the lip machined off so you don't have this issue being worse next time.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I never remember - but I keep a small dental mirror and a flashlight around - look at the threads and loosen.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Thanks for the info. I think I am screwed at this point. I was tightening the adjuster and now I can't loosen it. The stealership put new rivets in the back plate and now the hole in the plate and the adjuster don't match up on the passenger side. Not sure what I am going to do at this point.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
MH Provent

What broke?

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

The teeth on the adjuster are preventing loosening. You shud be able to move a lever that the adjuster clicks against to rotate in reverse. Try a flat screwdriver if you can get it in there. Do you have the rotor off yet, or is that still the problem? If not, can you access the lever from the back side at all?

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

got a friend coming over to see if he can help me get the rotor off. will see what happens.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
MH Provent

Good luck, what state are you located in?

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

state of confusion?

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

kapalczynski has got it with the screwdriver idea.

The manual says:
6. Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when wheel is rotated.
7. Push and hold adjuster lever away from star wheel with thin screwdriver.
8. Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake drag is eliminated.

X2

It's harder to loosen the star wheel then tighten it.

Thanks everyone for the help. Got it fixed. The little star wheel was bound up and a friend of mine busted it loose for me. I guess I was just afraid of breaking the darn thing. Once it broke loose it adjusted easier. Seems to work fine now. Any yes it does tighten easier than loosen.

Also I am located in IN.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
MH Provent

Awesome, glad you got it!

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)