61' Ford Fairlane Rear Axle question?

jmichaelsjeep · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:17 am

I know, I really need to stop posting these in the JEEP forum, but you all are much more responsive than the Ford Forum I'm on! Thanks again for that!

So over the last couple years since I've owned my Fairlane I've noticed a leak in the rear axle that appears to be getting worse since I drive it more than either my Grandpa or Great-Grandma did (and it's getting older).

So here is the situation. At first I thought the leak was coming from the diff cover gasket area, but after getting under there I noticed it is coming from the front (the pinion bearing area, is this right?). I looked it up in my Ford Shop manual for this car and this is what it appears to be I'm not sure if I have the terminology correct.

So here are my couple questions:

1). Are there a couple different gaskets in this area that should be replaced?
2). If so, can I remove just this front portion or do I have to remove the gears in the axle housing itself to remove this?
3). Any suggestions on how to do this? The shop manual has a pretty detailed disassembly portion, but it starts with basically tearing the whole thing apart, wheel hubs and all. I'm not sure I"m ready to tackle this myself without adequate garage space or knowledge.
4). I couldn't find in my shop manual what the factory gear ratio is for this vehicle, it has a 223 3.7L 6cyl with a 1brl carb. All I could find was a range that didn't explicitly identify the gear ratio with the vehicle/ motor etc. If I'm going to go with a clifford intake/ headers/ and 4 barrel carb, I want to make sure my rear gearing can handle it. It appears to be in pretty good shape so far.
5). I'm planning on replacing the rear diff. gasket anyway, I also couldn't find what amount of oil was appropriate to refill with? Anybody know? I know the size of the housing matters, but I'm not sure what axle this is exactly.

Thanks any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:59 pm

Don't take apart the differential unless you have to replace bearings or gears..
I am only 99.9% sure, on how to do it, so here you go.
If the input shaft seal is leaking, you will need to remove the drive shaft.
Grab the yoke and if it shakes in the housing, or does not turn the rear wheels freely,you better get someone who knows rear ends. If all is OK, proceed.
There should be a nut in the middle of the yoke.
Look for a locking device like a bend over tab, cotter pin, or a portion of the nut that looks like you hit it with a dull cold chisel to lock in place. If the locking device is a stamped steel cap, you will need to remove it. If you see no locking device, most likely it does not have one.
Look to see if it has a left hand nut, chances are very rare, but the nut behind the Desk may have told the nut behind the Drafting Board (before CAD) to draw a Left Handed Nut.
Remove the nut.
Pull the yoke out of the rear end and make sure you do not loose any spacers, if you do, you will trash out the pinion bearings.
Remove the seal and measure the bore the seal goes into, then stuff a cloth into the space between the pinion shaft and housing to keep the mice and dirt out. Do not attempt to move the car, you can trash the rear end!
Take the yoke, and old seal with you to a real parts store or order the right seal from a competent car restoration supplier if you don't do it in advance. Since you know how to use a computer, I recommend ordering the seal from an online Ford Restoration supplier, they won't ask if you have Fuel Injection.
Since it is a Ford, you better know the engine size, engine type, carburetor configuration, and the transmission type. Unlike Jeep, Ford loves to have lots of weird incompatible combinations. I suspect the people who started AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts worked for Ford at some time.
Look at the yoke and see if it has a bad groove worn in the sealing surface, if it does order a Speedy Sleeve and install it. If this is a common problem, you Ford Restoration supplier will most likely know about it and recommend you put one on. Bearing supply houses can get you one if the supplier can't.
Since this seal is most likely not a Viton Seal that has to be installed dry, put a light coat of oil on the sealing surface of the yoke. Drive in the seal with a seal driver or a hammer and try not to ruin it. Some seals go in easy and others like the Red Chicago Raw Hyde ones have an extreme interference fit.
Some (very few) yokes have a O ring or other seal that goes between the nut and yoke. If there is no seal or O ring between the nut and yoke, put a little silicone sealant on the sealing surface of the nut.
If the there is a locking device that can not be reused, or no locking device, clean off the threads of the pinion shaft and nut and put on some RED Loctite.
Screw the nut on the yoke and torque it up.
Install locking device. if it has one.
Make sure you can turn the yoke with the wheels off the ground.
Grab the yoke and make sure you can't shake it, if it shakes, you have loose bearings and will need to correct the preload by adjusting the shims, better get help from some one who knows what is going on.
If the yoke turns OK and does not shake in the housing when you try to shake it, install the drive shaft, smile and enjoy.
Chances are the U joints are shot, replace them if they are bad, dropped drive shafts are no fun.

Good Luck

jmichaelsjeep · **Posted:** Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:51 pm

Well alrighty then! You just want to come and do it? j/k sort of!
Thanks for the very detailed instructions. That sounds easy enough

. While I am mechanically inclined and am not afraid to dive right in, I'm also just a little hesitant to dive into something like this because I've never done it before... With having the shop manual it makes MOST things easier that I don't know, but with things that I'm really new to (like this) There isn't quite enough. In fact in all the vehicles I've owned over the years, I've never HAD to dive into this (axle/ driveline), so my knowledge and experience in this area is limited. I also am fairly detailed oriented (job hazard if you will) and thus I like to make sure to have everything lined up and figured out BEFORE I tear something apart. There are always surprises, but you are less likely to break or damage something in the process (which you have very nicely helped to point out with your various steps) when you know what you are getting into. So Thank you again for the info.
I have a mechanic friend (unfortunately lives too far away to help) who gave me similar instructions, albeit, MUCH less detailed... I appreciate the thorough response, he also recommended extreme caution and care and was pretty sure the seal was all that needed to be replaced and thought as well that it could be done like this. If and when I end up tackling this, I know for SURE that I will be printing these off and and have them duct taped to the underside of the car as I'm working on it!

Yes, I do know how to use a computer and I have been getting a lot of my parts for this car over the last couple years from a online/ catalog company called MAC's Antique Auto parts and they specialize in FORDs. Then there are a few things I can get from the various local auto parts stores, but as you mentioned, their knowledge varies from ind to ind. and store to store

I really confused some kid when he couldn't find it in the computer he ran around lost and thinking they didn't carry parts for cars older than 1962 (I have a 61'). I had to encourage him to look for a book (in my head I was saying, you know the thing with the pages in it

) Eventually we found the couple dollar part I was looking for. Even though MAC's carries a lot, they still sometimes have gaps in their inventory for this particular car (not many people fix up 4 door 61 Fords evidently :lol:

). Anyway, I've collected as many resources as I can (that I know of anyway) that deal with Classic Fords, but this particular model and engine are much harder to find stuff for than one year newer or older. I just keep adding as I can.

Again, thanks for your advice, it is much appreciated

61' Ford Fairlane Rear Axle question?

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