Biodiesel Yes Or No?

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:07 am

I tried a few batches and I’ve had good and bad experiences with it. The bad experience has left me shell shocked and now I am unsure that I want to continue using it.

Caking around the MAP sensor, emptying out bad fuel from the tank, no start due to water in fuel, code P0234, P0103, code etcetera.

To those of you who have used, researched or have experience using Biodiesel in the Jeep Liberty CRD, I would ask for your advice, suggestions, reviews, experiences or any information you may have that may help come to a conclusion.

RJM · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 8:05 am

racertracer wrote:

I tried a few batches and I’ve had good and bad experiences with it. The bad experience has left me shell shocked and now I am unsure that I want to continue using it.

Caking around the MAP sensor, emptying out bad fuel from the tank, no start due to water in fuel, code P0234, P0103, code etcetera.

To those of you who have used, researched or have experience using Biodiesel in the Jeep Liberty CRD, I would ask for your advice, suggestions, reviews, experiences or any information you may have that may help come to a conclusion.

Yes to bio, good quality bio that is. Caking around the MAP has nothing to do with using bio.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:30 am

I've had nothing but good results with B20-B100 (with the exception of when I was stupid and put it in when the weather was too cold). With that said, I've only used commercially produced bio (various feedstocks: poultry, soy, rapseed, waste fryer oil).

Before you throw in the towel, try some that's meets US (or better) quality standards https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/BDSpec.pdf

I'll bet you'll get better results, then you can work on refining your production process (if that's what's at fault for your issues).

Dan

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 11:00 am

It's easy to quality test biodiesel.

Don't even consider it if it's not crystal clear. And if it's a new source, don't pump it straight into your tank, rather buy a few gallons. Then you can put a little bit in a hot pan to test for water content, shake a little bit into water to check soap and contaminants (water should clear rapidly) and finally mix 3ml into 27ml of methanol and shake. Any precipitation in the methanol will tell you if the fuel is converted properly, and has no unreacted oil in it.

If it passes all three tests, it should burn better than pump diesel. I've been using B100 I make myself for three years now.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 11:46 am

YES when I have time to go get it and get it for less than pump diesel. I get mine at Soy Energy in New Oxford PA. when I have used it my engine ran smooth and quiet. never any issue sofar. I have run up to 50% bio and even when the weather was turning cold. some here said I was picking the wrong time to experiment with it but it turned out well for me.

I have never made my own but would if I have the space and equipment.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:59 pm

Works great. Quality is important, so if you can find a good supplier or make your own you should find good results. Be careful with the home producers...many make great fuel, some make junk fuel, some make wierd mixtures that they call biodiesel when it's not.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:37 pm

Go for it, I just dumped some extra SVO in my tank today. Your CRD will love it, you just gotta get good stuff, when trying a new source take a sample to try it out.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:23 pm

Sir Sam,

Let me get this right, (SVO = Straight Vegetable Oil), you dumped SVO in your tank Not Biodiesel and the CRD is doing fine?

Please explain.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:37 pm

racertracer wrote:

Sir Sam,

Let me get this right, (SVO = Straight Vegetable Oil), you dumped SVO in your tank Not Biodiesel and the CRD is doing fine?

Please explain.

SVO = Straight Vegetable Oil

You really shouldn't run pure SVO, or even anything more than about 5% SVO mixed with diesel. I had about 3/4 of a gallon of SVO left over from testing so I decided to run it. Mixed in with the existing b20 in my tank I'm running about 5% SVO now.

SVO has a viscosity that is very temperature dependent,running pure SVO you SHOULD NOT run it at less than 80C.

I do not recommend running very much SVO in your tank unless you have a fuel heater capable of heating the fuel to at least 80C.

Hydraulic Jack · **Posted:** Fri Apr 16, 2010 11:21 pm

I run B20 during the winter and B50 during the summer..............I've done this for the last 3 years or so..........I get my bio at Randy's service in Fowlerville......He sells B5.B20,B50 and B99........Does anyone know of any stations that sell Bio closer to Detroit?....HJ

stoutdog · **Posted:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 12:19 am

I've run everything from B10 to B99. It works fine, just be prepared to take an mpg hit on anything above B20 or so. You might lose .5mpg running B20, but straight B100 will knock off 3mpg or so.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:52 am

What about the frequency of fuel filter changes, does the frequency of fuel filter changes increase?

stoutdog · **Posted:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 4:35 am

racertracer wrote:

What about the frequency of fuel filter changes, does the frequency of fuel filter changes increase?

You will probably clog your filter within 2-3 tanks of running straight B100. After that, nothing changes.

For me, I've discovered that it costs me around $6-7/tank extra when I run biodiesel, or roughly $4/tank for losing 3mpg and $3/tank for the 25 mile drive to and from the biodiesel place here in Phoenix. Factor in another 45 minutes just to get fuel, and it's not really worth the effort. Unfortunately, the local biodiesel place is in an area of the Valley that I never go to...

Now, show me a good place nearby that sells B20 and I'd be all over it. The fuel loss is minimal and you still get all the positive benefits of running biodiesel.

cwheels · **Joined:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:57 pm **Posts:** 11

Absolutely yes to bio. Bought the libby just so I could run it back when gas went $4 per gallon and the expedition was getting 13 mpg. I've run bio year round since and aside from the 1 occasion when I ran a little to much bio for the cold temps I have nothing but good to say. Very happy the warm weather is back so I can really start saving $ with the b100.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Apr 19, 2010 1:35 pm

Many people are in the same boat. It's all great until you get a bad batch. Unless I made my own and had complete control over the end-product, I wouldn't touch it.
You can get a bad tank of regular ulsd also....

silica · **Joined:** Tue Dec 25, 2007 2:54 am **Posts:** 6

I have been using B100 on my 2005 liberty since may 2008.. its running great. i have no complaints. i am making it at home using biopro 190.

cwheels · **Joined:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:57 pm **Posts:** 11

I'm using the biopro 190 also. Any problems with the machine for you. I've had to replace the methanol and methoxide pump heads, but ive probably 3500 gallon or so at that point. Otherwise its been great. Love driving by the pumps and filling up at my shed.

silica wrote:

I have been using B100 on my 2005 liberty since may 2008.. its running great. i have no complaints. i am making it at home using biopro 190.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:53 pm

Yeah, but the BIOPRO 190 costs over $6,000.00 it would take about 3 to 5 years or more to recoup the cost of the machine.

If you don't own a fleet of diesels that would utilize the oil you produce, then I don't see how this unit would be cost effective.

I am looking into purchasing a biodiesel processor that wont break the bank.

Some have suggesed an Appleseed processor that I can put together myself.

It's in my design stage.

Anybody use an Appleseed processor? Any thoughts?

cwheels · **Joined:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:57 pm **Posts:** 11

racertracer wrote:

Yeah, but the BIOPRO 190 costs over $6,000.00 it would take about 3 to 5 years or more to recoup the cost of the machine.

If you don't own a fleet of diesels that would utilize the oil you produce, then I don't see how this unit would be cost effective.

I am looking into purchasing a biodiesel processor that wont break the bank.

Some have suggesed an Appleseed processor that I can put together myself.

It's in my design stage.

Anybody use an Appleseed processor? Any thoughts?

Absolutely the appleseed is the most cost effective way to get in to making bio, but i have six kids and little time so that was a factor also. biodieselinfopop has every answer to every question you could probably think up. If you seriously want to build your own I'd suggest you go there. Stay away from the plastic reator kits sold by some.

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Apr 23, 2010 12:49 pm

cwheels wrote:

Absolutely the appleseed is the most cost effective way to get in to making bio, but i have six kids and little time so that was a factor also. biodieselinfopop has every answer to every question you could probably think up. If you seriously want to build your own I'd suggest you go there. Stay away from the plastic reator kits sold by some.

x2 on that. I built and use an Appleseed, initial cost less than $1000. Mine was paid off in less than 6 months. Over the years, I've put less than a total of $3000 into the system, and now I have a massive reactor and wash tank, and a metered filtered filling station.

Biodiesel Yes Or No?

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