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 Post subject: Liberty Vs. Escape. battle of the titans....who is cheaper
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:57 am 
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with all the hype on TV about the Hybrid Escape (Kermit is VERY convincing) I wanted to see which of the four combos was the least expensive for ME to drive, Escape Hybrid 4x4, Escape 3.0 4x4 , Liberty 3.7L 4x4 and then Liberty CRD 4x4.

based on my personal numbers, numbers from fueleconomy.gov and a online invoice prices I came up with the below numbers. My mileage per year 22,000

Gallons of FOSSIL fuel burned per year:

Liberty 3.7L, 1486
Liberty CRD, 765 (918 Total fuel, diesel oil + Bio, as I run B20)
Escape 3.0L, 1215
Escape Hybrid, 759

Escape wins


Yearly ownership cost sans insurance, repairs and mods (based on 12 annual payments for a 70/mo loan + fuel cost)
Liberty 3.7L, 7725
Escape 3.0L, 7487
Escape Hybrid, 7107
Liberty CRD, 6828

CRD wins

So on my number alone the escape won't save me any money. even though the diff is just $275, it's still something. However after all those cars are paid off the Hybrid will use $300 less fuel per year than the CRD and $1600 less than the 3.7L liberty. those battery packs might start to look cheap now.

with the number behind us we can see that the CRD has 4000Lb more towing, REAL 4x4 (4 low, and not FWD based) and twice the torque, yes double.

I spent my $275 on a hitch & skid plates last weekend. You?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:01 am 
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The CRD's engine is well proven in Europe. I remember reading a European owner stating that this engine (in Europe) is considered as durable as the Mercedes diesels. Therefore, factor in an engine life of 400,000 to 500,000 miles for the CRD and 150,000 miles for the Escape Hybrid. If you maintain the CRD, it will last much longer than the Escape.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 1:41 pm 
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Those hybrid battery packs might be cheap in the long run, but their one-time price tag for replacement can be a real show stopper.

I've been involved with electric vehicles since '93, own a converted electric pickup truck that is battery only, and have followed what's going on with hybrids as well.

I'm also subscribed to a list for the Honda Insight, the little two seater spaceship-looking hybrid. At least I used to be subscribed to the list, haven't seen any digests from them in a while, seems like it just slowly died off. I know several people that went for one of these as soon as they came out. About a year or so ago, when said list was still active, some of the initial purchasers (2000 model) had gotten to the point that their battery packs were starting to die off, and were past the 80K mile warranty for the battery pack.

The battery pack in the Insight is nothing more than 120 D cell (yes, flashlight type D cell) nickel hydride batteries, stacked together in an appropriate container with all the wiring and electronics to control charging and discharge.

When these guys went to Honda to inquire about getting a replacement pack, being that they were outside the warranty, they were quoted a price of $5500 plus labor! :shock: :shock: :shock:

Granted, this was the price for the ENTIRE BATTERY PACK ASSEMBLY, just unplug the wires, pull the old unit out, drop a new assembly in, and plug it back up. Some of the owners have figured out how to disconnect and open up the container and just swap out the batteries themselves. Even then, it ran them on the order of $1000 or better to get enough nickel hydride D cells of the correct type. But given most people's lack of understanding when it comes to ANYTHING mechanical or electrical concerning their vehicles, they'd end up letting the dealer swap out the packs and get a four figure repair bill. Given that there's a big warning label on the lid of the battery pack assembly saying "DANGER-HIGH VOLTAGE-DO NOT OPEN-YOU WILL BE KILLED" (I'm not joking, that's the actual warning label installed at the factory) would probably be enough to dissuade 99 out of 100 people from attempting a DIY battery replacement.

That's going to be the big unknown with the Escape Hybrid - several years down the road, what is Ford going to be charging for replacement batteries, especially if you're outside of warranty? Hybrids are already getting bad press for not meeting the EPA mileage ratings. If/when people start getting socked for several thousand dollars out of pocket for battery replacement, you won't be able to give them away.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:26 pm 
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It appears your'e assuming that the Ford Escape Hybrid is actually going to achieve the EPA mileage ratings in real world driving. If anecdotal evidence is true, it isn't. And the towing rating is somewhat pathetic for an SUV. Diesels, otoh, are getting EPA and in some cases better, whether they are VW TDI's or CRD's, excluding the few problem vehicles with 11 mpg ratings :-). At least with mine, I'm getting 23 mpg with winter fuel, a Digi CR tuner set to E, and 30 mpg highway on winter fuel with normal to brisk acceleration, no special treatment to increase mpg's. My city fuel economy was up to 24 -25 mpg before the winter weather hit, highway as high as 32.5 mpg. I was able to get it as low as 22 mpg by using agressive city driving, WOT at each stoplight. Not too bad for a modern, egr equipped 4300 lb diesel SUV. At nearly 17K, it seems to be breaking in very well. I still use PS White/Gray for winter/summer driving in every tank, right from the first tankfull. Also use B20 whenever I can get it.

I have to agree that once the non-warranty battery pack replacements start hitting Hybrid owners, resale value will be poor, maybe even lower than a straight gasser. And that's assuming that the CVT tranny's and charging electronics don't have severe growing pains, again at the early adopters expense. I lost count of Hybrid owners comments on their sites, who claim they will sell just before warranty expiration.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:40 pm 
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on fueleconomy.gov they have 'reported' milage for each car, I had to look at some 2005's as no '06 data was avalible for some of the models.

so the milage rates I used where:

CRD 23
3.7 17
3.0 23
hybrid 28.5


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:52 pm 
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Ripple wrote:
on fueleconomy.gov they have 'reported' milage for each car, I had to look at some 2005's as no '06 data was avalible for some of the models.

so the milage rates I used where:

CRD 23
3.7 17
3.0 23
hybrid 28.5


If you want to be sure, find someone in your area with a Ford Escape Hybrid and see what they're actually getting for mileage. EPA estimates for hybrids are wildly optimistic.

_________________
2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:04 pm 
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retmil46 wrote:
When these guys went to Honda to inquire about getting a replacement pack, being that they were outside the warranty, they were quoted a price of $5500 plus labor! :shock: :shock: :shock:


Absolutely unbelievable !

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*SOLD*2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4 CRD, Bright Silver Metallic, Dk/Lt Slate Gray Leather w/bun warmers, 5 spd auto, 22G pkg, Trailer Tow, 3.73 Rear Axle w/Trac-Lok Differential, P235/70R16 Firestone Destination LE's, Power Sunroof, Selec-Trac 4WD, Infinity 6-Disc In-Dash, Magnaflow #15870 System.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:55 pm 
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I have talked with two Escape hybrid owners, one stated 26 mpg combined C/H driving and the other said he gets 26 mpg city and 26 mpg highway. Neither were happy with the vehicle, biggest complaint was noise from CT/engine. Both plan to dump car for non hybrid car at trade time for multiple reasons. Well one complained about lack of towing and off road ability.

Wonder what a guy is suppose to do about the old batteries? Will the trash man might pick them up and take them to the dump? Probably not.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 9:53 pm 
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Not to mention, the Escape is made out of tinfoil.

Look at the underside of a Liberty and compare it to the underside of the Escape. The Liberty is MUCH more rugged.

I sat my friends Escape and my Liberty side by side at work one day and compared them...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:18 am 
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You have to consider the capabilities of the two vehicles. I drive in areas with lots of rocks and high center trails. The rear suspension of the Escape clearly has alloy components hanging down where a rock will reconfigure the geometry. Plus, its made by the same folks who brought you the Windstar. (24 on its first trip to Tucson) Dave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:44 am 
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Ranger1 wrote:
At least with mine, I'm getting 23 mpg with winter fuel, a Digi CR tuner set to E, and 30 mpg highway on winter fuel with normal to brisk acceleration, no special treatment to increase mpg's. My city fuel economy was up to 24 -25 mpg before the winter weather hit, highway as high as 32.5 mpg.


Practically identical to what I've been getting, only real performance mod being the muffler. From what I've seen so far, think I've managed to bump up the combined MPG by a mile or two using the OD lockout trick while commuting to work.

In defense of hybrids and the oft-reported failure to get their EPA ratings, I'd have to say that the biggest problem in that regard, IMHO, is the nut holding the steering wheel! :wink: :roll:

People tend to think that hybrids are some magical creation that will automatically give them high MPG regardless of how they drive. The way some of them drive, they wouldn't be able to get decent mileage out of a frakkin bicycle! It doesn't matter what type of vehicle it is, you have to know HOW to drive it to get the best fuel economy, and then DRIVE it that way.

I'll go back to the Honda Insight again. I personally know 3 people in different areas of the country that own these, fellow electric vehicle enthusiasts. They opted for the 5 speed manual tranny instead of the CVT, and took the time to learn how to drive them to get the best mileage. EPA rating for the 5 speed is somewhere around 60 to 65 MPG, and these guys routinely manage to achieve 80 to 90 MPG highway, nearly 50% better mileage than the EPA rating! (Of course, Consumer Reports would probably find a way to only get 11 MPG :roll: )

Same with our favorite diesel. I'll admit that I was ignorant when I first got this beast of the tips and tricks used by long time diesel owners to get the best fuel mileage, and drove it just like a gas vehicle. But by reading, listening, learning, about things such as BSFC and the 2000 rpm sweet spot, experimenting with locking out OD, TRYING to drive it to get the best fuel economy, now I'm managing to get fuel mileage that makes the EPA ratings look like a ridiculous understatement.

The vehicle is only half the equation, the driver has to do their part as well.

Also, the type of driving hybrid owners do can have a lot to do with poor fuel mileage. Where most hybrids shine is in stop and go urban driving. If the majority of an owner's driving is high speed interstate, then basically they've bought a vehicle that doesn't suit their needs or driving conditions to begin with.

When driven properly and used in the right setting, hybrids can and do meet or exceed their EPA ratings.

But in the end, we still come back to that final, ultimate question - what happens when the batteries wear out, and how much will it cost to replace them?

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 8:40 am 
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Ranger1 wrote:
It appears your'e assuming that the Ford Escape Hybrid is actually going to achieve the EPA mileage ratings in real world driving. If anecdotal evidence is true, it isn't. And the towing rating is somewhat pathetic for an SUV. Diesels, otoh, are getting EPA and in some cases better, whether they are VW TDI's or CRD's, excluding the few problem vehicles with 11 mpg ratings :-). At least with mine, I'm getting 23 mpg with winter fuel, a Digi CR tuner set to E, and 30 mpg highway on winter fuel with normal to brisk acceleration, no special treatment to increase mpg's. My city fuel economy was up to 24 -25 mpg before the winter weather hit, highway as high as 32.5 mpg. I was able to get it as low as 22 mpg by using agressive city driving, WOT at each stoplight. Not too bad for a modern, egr equipped 4300 lb diesel SUV. At nearly 17K, it seems to be breaking in very well. I still use PS White/Gray for winter/summer driving in every tank, right from the first tankfull. Also use B20 whenever I can get it.

I have to agree that once the non-warranty battery pack replacements start hitting Hybrid owners, resale value will be poor, maybe even lower than a straight gasser. And that's assuming that the CVT tranny's and charging electronics don't have severe growing pains, again at the early adopters expense. I lost count of Hybrid owners comments on their sites, who claim they will sell just before warranty expiration.


What is this Digi CR tuner?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:17 pm 
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retmil46,

>>Same with our favorite diesel. I'll admit that I was ignorant when I first got this beast of the tips and tricks used by long time diesel owners to get the best fuel mileage, and drove it just like a gas vehicle. But by reading, listening, learning, about things such as BSFC and the 2000 rpm sweet spot, experimenting with locking out OD, TRYING to drive it to get the best fuel economy, now I'm managing to get fuel mileage that makes the EPA ratings look like a ridiculous understatement.

Let's assume that I know nothing about what you are talking about, i.e. how to drive a diesel vs. gas to get better fuel economy. I say this because I suspect that some of us know some of the things you are talking about, but very few know all... For example, I understand the 2k RPM, i.e. the 2.8L enginer gets its best torque at about 2K RPM.

Could you give specific suggests on how the diesel should be driven compared to gas engines?

Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:20 pm 
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Quote:
What is this Digi CR tuner?


http://www.dieseltuning.com/index_eng.html

_________________
2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 3:46 pm 
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Ranger1 wrote:
Quote:
What is this Digi CR tuner?


http://www.dieseltuning.com/index_eng.html


So the setting of "E" is that some sort of economy mode for gas mileage?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 5:45 pm 
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more info to consider:

hybrid: smooth CVT
CRD: Clunky Automatics

Hybrid: Atkinson cycle (? cr, 12.5:1 er) + ac motor: 26.5 hp/L (67.4 combined), N/a (53.9 Lbft / liter combined)
CRD: Diesel Cycle (17.5:1 cr) : 57.14 hp/liter, 105.4 lbft/liter
Taurus SHO cira 1989: Otto Cycle (9.5-10:1 cr) 73.33hp/liter, 66.6 lbft/liter

I'd like to have BSFC numbers to go with the above data but it seems the 17 year old ford Taurus is still in the game, based on the numbers.

Also the batteries only appear to have a 3 year/36000 mile warranty, I'd burn through that in 19 months! I'm really sad to see that the Hybrid compares so poorly, everyone seems to agree that it's not as good of a car as the CRD ( it is a CRD forum after all). I want hybrid tech to catch on but it seems most offerings leave their owners high and dry. I wish CVT's where available in other kinds of cars, only the Ford 500 to my knowledge has a CVT and a non-hybrid engine. good discussion, Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 8:34 pm 
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omniphil wrote:
Ranger1 wrote:
Quote:
What is this Digi CR tuner?


http://www.dieseltuning.com/index_eng.html


So the setting of "E" is that some sort of economy mode for gas mileage?


There are 16 power settings, starting with 0 and ending with F. E is the next to highest power setting available.

_________________
2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders


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