I just changed the oil in my '06 KJ, the oil that drained was blacker than i expected, I use Castrol EDGE and a Pure-One filter. I had always used castrol syntec and pure-one in my jetta and the oil in it always came out very black, but i always believed it was from the engine being worn, (lots of blow-by). The Jeeps oil was changed 3300 miles ago, and since it only has 35,338 miles on it, I think the oil should have been alot cleaner. I decided to cut the old filter open, The filter had hardly any trash in it. I had to second guess myself on which way the oil flows through it. Both sides of the filter media were about the same, in color and texture, and the pleats had nothing "stored in them". I think the Pure-One filter isnt doing a proper job. I'm thinking of going to amsoil. Theyre filters advertise more capacity and a 15 micron filter. Pure-One says 20 microns, but i just don't think its working.

Also, the Pure-Ones filter media was almost paper/cardboard like. I thougth it should be more fiber-like. Idk. I'm definitely gonna switch my brand of filter next time. any thoughts???

Pure One filters are one of the best on the market.

Black oil does not mean the filter is not doing it's job.Lots of stop and go driving,short trips(not letting it get to operating temps),and dusty conditions all make the oil darker at drain time.


I'd be buying a better air filter(not K&N) and change the PCV valve(every 30k anyways) before bothering with a $20+ oil filter.

What i cant seem to understand about this though, is the style of driving i do daily is a 45mile one way commute to work. probably a 45mph average speed with very few if any stop and gos. I know im probably over reacting to this, it just bugs me, i think for the next change i will take a sample and have an oil analysis done. $30 will be worth my peace of mind. I checked the airfilter last oil change and it appeared to be new, no dirt visible at all in the pleats, i havent checked the pcv, i will prolly pick one up tommorrow just for the sake of doing it. Then again the dark color could just be the deposits left from the owners before me. If they used a cheaper oil, my synthetic could be scrubbing the inside clean.

Ive been researching amsoil for hours now, and im not sold on a company that has all these tests and figures, but refuses to achieve/pay for the API certification. And I don't like having to buy it from a guys garage who pays $15 a yr to be a dealer, I'd rather get it from a reputable source. Not bashing the product as i havent tried it, i'm just very skeptical.

tjkj2002, I will take your advice and at least hold off on the expensive filter, at least for one more change to see if it clears up a bit. Thanks for the advice.

I'd give it a few oil changes at 3k drain intervals with synthetic before worrying.It will take some time to clean the inside of the engine.Could also throw some Seafoam about 10-20 miles before your next oil change,your oil will come out very nasty but should be considerably cleaner the next oil change.

Another great oil filter is the Mobil1 oil filter(M1-209),just a tad bit better then WIX and Pure Ones.

I'll definitely do the seafoam before next change, thanks for the help, it's always appreciated.

You can always take an oil analysis to see how your engine parts are wearing and get an idea of the condition of your oil.

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

when I did seafoam on my kj... i never got that smoke.
I do think it jacked up my Flowmaster though....

I've been Usuing Pure one Filters since they started making thm years ago in my trucks.
Been Pure One since day one in my KJ,now at right over 50k.

Bought the good Mobil filter once,still sits on the shelf to this day where it will remain.

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Bub
06 Inop Edition CRD Silver
06 Inop Edition CRD Green

Just to clear up a couple things:

fwiw, for example, A pack of four Amsoil oil filters to your door would run Less than $17 ea.

It is $30 a year to be a dealer.

"I don't like having to buy it from a guys garage who pays $15 a yr to be a dealer, I'd rather get it from a reputable source. Not bashing the product as i haven't tried it, i'm just very skeptical." ?
What is wrong with buying through an independent dealer? I offer great pricing for the product, have hundreds of regular customers that I take great care of (including several locals that I change oil for), sponsor LOST events when I can, etc. I believe My reputation as a dealer is in great shape.

An API cert is not as meaningful as you think. API sets a minimum standard for oils and requires meeting certain formulations that are not always Best for every application. You can buy recycled dino motor oils w/ the same API cert that Mobil1 has? So why pay more for Mobil1? Amsoil does not go by API formulations for all of their oils (some do have API certs though for certain applications) so that they can better tailor their formulations to certain applications.

anyhow, I don't really need to defend Amsoil products. While they are some times more expensive than some other brands, they have their place in the market and have proven to be some of the best products available while having been around longer than their competition. If there was a problem w/ them, you can bet the big dogs in the industry would have run them out long ago.

You won't find an oil that will come out clean as one of it's jobs is to capture and hold contaminants that are going to be present in any engine. Try a couple UOA's over a couple oil changes if you are concerned w/ the engine but I'd not worry about used oil being dirty, it sounds like you are using products that are working fine. If there is a problem w/ the engine that is causing premature or additional contamination then the UOA should be able to point that out.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

JJsKJ is correct. I just changed my diesel oil in my Dodge truck (1 year, 10,000 mile interval change) and the UOA came back good and the oil was still suitable for continued use. And trust me, I save money by not having to change 14 quarts and two filters more than once per year.

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

I will believe that amsoil probably makes a great product. And the extra cost isnt a problem, I'll pay extra for good products, I'm just overly skeptical and wondering why, if their products are as good as everyone says, they don't go after more certs and licenses? If its that good they could knock off the majority of competition out there. A friend of mine at work is about to become a dealer and he told me they don't pursue the certs and licenses because their expensive, they would rather just offer a warranty with their products, that's fine, but every oil i can buy at an auto parts store has the cert, why can't amsoil do the same?

I'm not trying to start a fire, I'm just harder to win over than most. I'm trying to get educated. And dont take the "buy from a guys garage", personal, its not meant that way, I just prefer dealing with larger chains of stores. Ive never been comfortable buying from private dealers.

I am gonna try the analysis tho, not because I think theres a problem (you guys have put me to rest on that), but more just to see whats there. My friend thats getting ready to deal amsoil, told me of a place to get the analysis done, they do aircraft oil mostly, but will do whatever you want. So i'll give it a try. If its nastier than it should be then I will definitely switch to amsoil and try the analysis with it.

JustinP, just remember that a license or certificate doesn’t mean anything. But I’m glad that you will take an UOA to help determine the quality of oil that you are using and the interval in which it should be changed. I can tell you that I’ve seen Amsoil UOA’s at 15,000 mile intervals on gasoline engines look better than other major brand UOA’s at 4,000 mile intervals. So not only does Amsoil have a better UOA, the additives within the oil will last longer and outperform the competition most of the time.

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

I definitely know certs usually mean less than the paper theyre printed on. But they also win over people that otherwise don't know any better. It seems like a marketing goldmine. Amazing product and a certification. What could be better?

An example, Im an avionics tech at a repair station, I'm not licensed with my A&P, it's not necessary for where I work, but if I had my A&P, I'd be taken alot more serious if I went out to look for another job, regardless if my work was any better.

Is the reason most of Amsoil's products don't have the certs and licenses because their formulations arent approved by the API/SAE? If so, why aren't they, I will feel much more confident knowing the real reason. If API won't recognize a superior formulation, thats their problem, but if they won't recognize it for a downfall in that formulation, that's another story. It all seems way too good to be true.

(IIRC from what I have read) An example of their formulation not meeting API specs is some of their oils contain higher levels of zinc (ZDDP) additives which some claim can harm catalytic converters and therefore can't meet API specs. This is one reason their 10w30 & 40 formulations are popular amongst 4.0L owners (as well as others) due to those engines loving the extra ZDDP. Funny thing is I don't hear about cats wearing out prematurely as a result of running higher ZDDP oils in those vehicles. Please note that Amsoil Does have API certed oils where it makes sense to Them to do so and not compromise the formulations that they feel are better left alone. To me that is a nice thing; knowing they don't bend over just to satisfy some licensing organizations rules.

regardless of all of this, just like in any other oil debate thread, my opinion is that any of the brand name oils are fine for normal use and 3-5K (or even longer in some situations) service intervals so if you are not going to pursue extended oil change intervals (10K+ mile), you probably shouldn't bother running higher end, costly, boutique oils unless you just want the added peace of mind that comes w/ them. (if that is how they make you feel)

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

...... i know this thread drifted OT.

My opinion of the filter debate is that Amsoil has the best oil filter available.
Based on what I have read and seen in person of other filters, Wix makes great filters as does MANN.

I'll agree that Mobil1's extended service is a good filter but other than a larger synthetic blended element, it isn't as good as some others.

Once again, it boils down to how long you want to run your OCI or FCI for that matter. (I know of people that run high OCI's but change the filter and top off at their half way point.)

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

I think I've pretty much decided to stick with the pure-one and the castrol EDGE. I like changing my oil at 3k, so the more I read, I'll just be wasting the amsoil. I am going to invest in an oil analysis the next change and if it comes back not up to my expectations, I am gonna switch to the amsoil and get an analysis running that when the time comes and compare the two. I appreciate all the help with this, and when i do change my gear oil, (within the next few services), Im gonna run amsoil in the diffs.
Thanks again everyone.

They sure do when your dealing with OEM warranty,watch how fast they throw the whole bill at you after finding out your using Amsoil and your trans/engine took a dump.Plus I've never seen Asmoil ever pay out in such a case.

I'm not bashing Amsoil but when it's harder then snot to get,by mail is hard when I can drive 1/2 mile and get the same quality product for cheaper.I've even used Amsoil before,it is good stuff but not what it's all hyped up to be.Plus there trans fluid is not recommended or speced for our trans anyway,and just because they say it can be does not mean it actually can and make your trans work/last correctly.

I use Motorcraft (Ford) filters available at Wally's. They actually make one for the CRD.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

I think those have the Pure One filter element.

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05 KJ Limited 4x4 in Light Khaki: Detours USA Backbone, Warn M8000, Huskyliners, RockLizard Super Skink sliders, OME/Bilstein Lift, JBA UCA's, 245/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers
07 LR3 SE V8
1996 XJ Country
2015 KL Limited

If you're seeing "junk" in your oil filter, that's not a good thing! If you want to see your oil filter doing it's job, just dump a handful of sand into your crankcase. Then after you change the oil, you'll (hopefully) see it all in your oil filter. That is, if your engine makes it that far. Oil is black due to the compression and heat that occurs in your engine. It's not an indicator of how dirty the oil is. If our oil was dirty, that would mean our engines were disintegrating and the "dirt" was contaminants and metal shavings. Don't worry about it. The Purolator filters are one of the best on the market!

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2003 Renegade 4X4 5-Speed, Bright Silver *TRADED for 2013 Wrangler*
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Garmin GPSMAP 76S
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Amsoil Ea "Absolute Efficiency" Air Filter
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