Any one else have the transmission fill tube break? I just changed the fluid and filters about 2 weeks ago with no problems. Drove from Texas up the the Philly area, and when I went to check the fluid level, the tube seemed real loose. Come to find out it is broken completely in half where it connects to a bracket on the fire wall (just above it). I put a rubber plug into it for now. That tube isn't a vent also is it? The plug I put in isn't going to allow it to breathe. Since I am away from home for a while,I guess I am going to have to find a dealer up here to fix it.

DAve

Is that a plastic tube? Some JBWeld or a similar compound might be a cheaper/easier fix. I had a plastic bracket break a couple of weeks ago and a little JBWeld did the trick... Just put a little of the compound between the two pieces, let it dry partially, and then create an overlapping "bridge" between the two parts.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

No, it's the metal tube that the transmission dip stick goes in. I don't think I want to chance any JBWeld going in the transmission, which is sure to happen with the luck I've been having lately

Dave

Yea... that would be no bueno. Good call

I'm out of ideas (doesn't take much lately). Good luck with the dealer...

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

MPA has it for $13.69, part number is 53013497AC. Have you bent the tube in the past to get the dipstick to stay in? The bolt may have loosened at the bracket, was it serviced in that area? This is the first failure of this kind we have heard of. The tube design does have a large variability, so it may have been vibrating against the firewall. Did you notice any areas where the insulation was worn through? Thanks for the post.

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Thanks or the part number. Never have had the problem as others have with the dip stick staying in. It seems to rest up against the plastic engine cover and the only thing I can think of is that is moved back and forth with engine vibrations and got metal fatigue at the fixed point on the firewall. The only thing I've done different lately is check the fluid level more often as I had just changed the filters and fluid.

Dave

This happened several times in the distant past when dealers were replacing TC's hot and heavy. I think one temporary fix was to slide a piece of rubber tubing over the broken area I don't believe the transmission breaths through the dip stick as the top of it seals with a rubber plug.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Thanks Joe. What had me wondering is that I looked at the dip stick rubber plug, and it has 2 places cut out off it opposite of each other which led me to believe it vented there. There's not enough tube left above the bracket to put a tube on it. I did buy one of those expanding rubber plugs that they use for stripped oil pans...don't want to blow any seals in the tranny this far from home!!

Dave

I just completed a euro torque converter swap recently, and the dipstick tube has a metal bracket that is attached to the transmission bell housing. It was held in position by the highest bolt on the passenger side of the tranny on my vehicle. The tube was very problematic when we needed to get it back into the proper position so that the bolt would pass through the bracket and thread into its proper location. It took 2 people to get this bolt back in place after the swap: 1 person (me) with 4ft of extension on a 6" ratchet reaching over the lowered tranny, and another person to reach above the tranny from the drivers side to guide everything together so I could tighten the bolt. It is also difficult to get the dipstick back into the tranny without messing up the rubber seal inside the dipstick hole. If you have to pull the dipstick out of the tranny, make sure you clean the area around the dipstick thoroughly. It was caked with dirt and grime on my tranny. All in all, replacing the dipstick alone would be quite challenging, and I am not sure if it is possible without removing the tranny brace and lowering the tranny to get better access. Good luck.

Duncan

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Well, I didn't want to hear that!!. But thanks for the info.

Does any one know for sure if the dip stick tube is also the vent for the transmission, or is there another one somewhere?

DAve

There is a vent tube, so stop worrying. Also, I would go with the hose repair that Joe R suggested, that dipstick is gonna be a PITA to replace. I know, I had the tranny out a couple of weeks ago.

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I would, but as I replied to Joe's post, it is broken at the bracket and cannot put a tube or hose over it. Nothing sticks up past the firewall bracket.

Dave

I guess you are going to have to get down and dirty for this repair? You could always leave the plug in and wait until you need to drop the tranny, dip stick should work fine as needed, since the bottom of the pan is the stop.

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20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Yeah, that is what I am thinking, just leaving the plug in it. I'm 1600 miles from home working in PA/NJ/NY for about a month and was worried about the vent issue causing more damage...didn't want to be stranded here with no wheels.

I noticed this exact same thing on my 2006 CRD last night. The tube looks like a clean cut near the bracket. Almost like it had been intentionally cut in half.

My CRD has about 77K miles on it so I'm not sure how long it has been this way. At about 50K miles it started requiring a 10 second warmup otherwise the transmission would slip and it would shimmy and die at the first stop. I was guessing that maybe the fuel rail had air in it and the converter hadn't filled with oil yet. Now, I'm wondering if the tube not being sealed is causing problems.

The slip shimmy and die on 1st startup after overnight or day of work is more likely drain back of fluid from the TC due to a bad check valve in one of the transmission filters (lots of forum chat on this problem). Try this; when you first start up shift into neutral (no fluid is pumped in park), idle for 10 seconds or so at 1,000rpm before shifting into gear. If this prevents the problem then you know the solution. I will note I think, but am not sure, that this drill makes shifting into reverse ok a certainty but not 1st. At least sometimes when I do this drill and back out of the driveway and then shift into 1st I have to repeat the cycle before I get that first solid tranny hookup in 1st.

Have lived with this for a while but plan tranny service soon.

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It's happened to a few others over the years

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Mine broke just like that too. Went to check it one day and it practically slung the tube into the driveway. I used some rubber hose and hose clamps. I cut a section about 4 to 6 inches long, put half on the upper part and clamped it down, then cut a slit so the rubber could go around the bracket and slide down and then clamped it below that. I also put some aluminum faced tape around the "coupling" to help with heat. I'm sure it would dribble if I dumped fluid down for the top. So when I did my tranny fluid change, I used a funnel and a piece of hose that would run down past my joint and thus prevent seeping during fill. I've run with this patch for about the last 30k miles. I also zip tied the top of the tube to the wiring harness so it can't vibrate too much and I leave my engine cover off so it's not in the way. I figure if I ever have to change the TC, the tube will get changed then.

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2006 Liberty CRD, 85,500 miles, ECO Tunes
Dark Khaki, Sport, Sunroof, Tow pkg
I added: EVIC, Cummins Fuel Pump, CAT Filter, Hour meter, heated seats
Michelin LTX2, Double Gauge Pod (Volt, Fuel Press)

Did you ever consider using a piece of hose, and slit the lower half to slide it past the bracket, and fasten with SS clamps? Maybe a little silicone might seal it up?

_________________
20 year owner of Libby CRD!
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Exactly what happened to mine.
I'll patch it up this weekend.
What size ID hose are you using?

Should I be concerned about contamination of the transmission fluid? I have no idea how long the filler tube has been broken...