Broken np242 T-Case

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:14 pm

Well, after nearly a month at the dealer, and several months since it 1st happened.........I finally found out what had caused my transfer case to jump out of low range and consequently loose 4wd lock altogether. The front drive coupler that engages the front output shaft had apparently only been partially engaged when I put it into a bind climbing a short but steep hill close to the house. As I climbed, it bounced a bit and grabbed traction once and thats when the drive coupler gear teeth sheered where it only had partial contact with the front output shaft.

Needless to say I was told that it's a fairly common problem on these t-cases that actually rarely break. But when they do, about 75% of the time it's the drive coupler. 4hi doesn't usually cause this, due to the fact it's synchronized, and rarely in a bind hard enough that would prevent full engagement or to cause sheering. But when shifting into 4lo, I was told that if at all possible, it's best to wait a few seconds, back up some (or at the very least, put it into reverse), and then proceed forward before putting the t-case in a hard bind, to give the gear teeth time to mesh 100%.....Cause if they are not and the driveline is put into a bind, they most likely never will fully engage each other and the above scenario could happen.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:34 am

Amazing these dealerships and their service/parts dept., warranty people, and whatever else!!!!!! Only thing needed and ordered by the service manager was a planetary gear set and lock coupler.........Total of about $220 and 1hrs worth of labor, cheap easy fix you say.....right???...............read on!!!.................What shows up to my dealer's service dept from Chrysler parts&warranty div warehouse but a completely brand spanking new NP242!!!!!!!! Manager tells the story like this:

"So, anyways.........we came into the shop this morning and instead of the two parts we ordered to fix your t-case, there was this entire t-case sitting on a crate. Figured it musta been a mistake, so I double checked our order/service sheet and called the district service writer who takes care of the warranty orders to see what we're suppose to do. Said that the work and parts being ordered by us for your Liberty under warranty, was over ridden by corporate and we were told to replace instead of repair." "So, buddy," he says "you got yourself a brand spanken factory new t-case!!!"

I'm not disappointed at all, but fairly perplexed and realize now why Chrysler in some part is going down the tubes. I don't know if it's lack of confidence in the service techs skills to perform warranty repairs, or what.......But instead of paying less than $500 to fix my old one, they decide to pay $1370 for a complete new unit plus labor. I simply left shaking my head, and glad I have one less problem to deal with for a long time to come!!!!!

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:53 am

I'm surprised they were willing to perform warranty work, with the drivetrain mods you've done. That big red front diff didn't clue them in?

I guess if Chrysler's paying them for it, it doesn't matter to them. . . .

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:04 pm

linewarbr wrote:

I'm surprised they were willing to perform warranty work, with the drivetrain mods you've done. That big red front diff didn't clue them in?

I guess if Chrysler's paying them for it, it doesn't matter to them. . . .

Like it's been said before, it's all about the service rep at the dealer 99% of the time.........and as the law states, if it's unrelated to any mods you've done then it has to be covered. As for the front diff, seeing how it's a direct factory replacement, there really isn't anything they could say (not that they did) regardless of what it's made out of or it's color. Be akin to them trying to nix your warranty on a blown Engine or tranny because you had NAPA u-joints, Valvoline motor oil, and Autozone CV shafts. Thing is, if I had been full throttle in a mudhole up to my @ss or hammering it stuck off in a rock pile I wouldn't have even cared to take it in as I'm obviously at fault. Hence the reason for getting the JBA front diff the last time. But this hill I'm talking about would make you laugh at how short and easy it is (a bit steep though)..........strait shot up, maybe 50ft long, about 25% grade, hard pack dirt with a bit of sand and gravel thrown in, and a small washout in the middle. Can be crawled without needing momentum.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:17 pm

It's all to the good then. Like you said, you get a new t-case out of the deal - one less thing to worry about.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:32 pm

2mopar_diesels wrote:

But when shifting into 4lo, I was told that if at all possible, it's best to wait a few seconds, back up some (or at the very least, put it into reverse), and then proceed forward before putting the t-case in a hard bind, to give the gear teeth time to mesh 100%.....Cause if they are not and the driveline is put into a bind, they most likely never will fully engage each other and the above scenario could happen.

Thanks for the tip......... :wink:

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:58 am

dieselenthusiast wrote:

2mopar_diesels wrote:

But when shifting into 4lo, I was told that if at all possible, it's best to wait a few seconds, back up some (or at the very least, put it into reverse), and then proceed forward before putting the t-case in a hard bind, to give the gear teeth time to mesh 100%.....Cause if they are not and the driveline is put into a bind, they most likely never will fully engage each other and the above scenario could happen.

Thanks for the tip......... :wink:

Thats what we're here for!!!

XJMA · **Posted:** Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:18 pm

Wow, that's crazy!! haha. Tcases are mad easy to take apart and work on.

In terms of why the problem happened, every now and then, especially on vehicles that get wheeled, you should re-adjust the Tcase linkage. The motor/tranny/transfer case is only held in by mounts that are rubber, and they can shift and sag and move a bit. You may have had the problem of partial engagement due to the linkage being just a tad out of adjustment, it happens all the time. Just loosen the adjuster screw, make sure everything is in the proper place, and tighten it, it's that simple.

I find the best way to get into 4low is to be moving ever so slightly. Don't be stopped with foot on brake, that can make it not mesh. Just be moving ever so slightly and it will go right in.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:14 pm

XJMA wrote:

Wow, that's crazy!! haha. Tcases are mad easy to take apart and work on.

In terms of why the problem happened, every now and then, especially on vehicles that get wheeled, you should re-adjust the Tcase linkage. The motor/tranny/transfer case is only held in by mounts that are rubber, and they can shift and sag and move a bit. You may have had the problem of partial engagement due to the linkage being just a tad out of adjustment, it happens all the time. Just loosen the adjuster screw, make sure everything is in the proper place, and tighten it, it's that simple.

I find the best way to get into 4low is to be moving ever so slightly. Don't be stopped with foot on brake, that can make it not mesh. Just be moving ever so slightly and it will go right in.

Uh, there is no adjustment on the no242, as its a cable shifter. I do inspect it from time to time making sure the brake inserts are still intact and nothing is broke or torn loose. If it ever gets sloppy, its cause the cable has stretched, and nothing you can do but buy a new shift cable.

Broken np242 T-Case

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