No anti-seize on stock plugs?

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:12 pm

I had my mechanic pull the stock plugs on our 2007 KJ with 25,484 miles. The mechanic was surprised that the stock plugs didn’t have anti-seize. He said those things were so tight that he was worried about stripping the threads. :shock:

Anyone experience these issues? Oh, and just for the record, I run the higher octane fuel and the stock NGK plugs looked good. 25,000 was a little premature to pull the plugs, but without anti-seize, I’m glad they were pulled. Anyway, I switched to the NGK Iridium plugs.

jnaut · **Posted:** Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:13 pm

I thought the iridiums were poo-pooed because the KJ spark didn't run hot enough to take advantage of them.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:56 pm

Yep do not use anti-seize and make sure the engine temp is below 140 degrees before pulling the plugs(head temp not coolant temp) and you will be fine.Anti-seize gives a false torque reading which will pull those threads out of the head.

2nd not using Iriduim plugs in the KJ,not enough juice to run them properly.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Aug 30, 2010 11:51 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Yep do not use anti-seize and make sure the engine temp is below 140 degrees before pulling the plugs(head temp not coolant temp) and you will be fine.Anti-seize gives a false torque reading which will pull those threads out of the head.

2nd not using Iriduim plugs in the KJ,not enough juice to run them properly.

Opps, the Mechanic put anti-seize on each plug………… :shock:

I’ve only heard good things about the Iridium plugs in the KJ, so I’m not sure how I skipped the “lack of juice” scenario. According to the manufacture’s specifications based on the 2007 model year, the Iridium plugs were recommended. :dizzy:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 30, 2010 11:55 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

Yep do not use anti-seize and make sure the engine temp is below 140 degrees before pulling the plugs(head temp not coolant temp) and you will be fine.Anti-seize gives a false torque reading which will pull those threads out of the head.

2nd not using Iriduim plugs in the KJ,not enough juice to run them properly.

Opps, the Mechanic put anti-seize on each plug………… :shock:

I’ve only heard good things about the Iridium plugs in the KJ, so I’m not sure how I skipped the “lack of juice” scenario. According to the manufacture’s specifications based on the 2007 model year, the Iridium plugs were recommended. :dizzy:

Copper core plugs are the recommended plug still even in the up coming '11 3.7's,though that is not what parts stores have listed.Parts houses/stores are wrong about there listings about 95% of the time.

You maybe mistaking the 3.7 with the VVT 5.7 which switched to Iriduim plugs in '08 or '09.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 12:07 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

Copper core plugs are the recommended plug still even in the up coming '11 3.7's,though that is not what parts stores have listed.Parts houses/stores are wrong about there listings about 95% of the time.

You maybe mistaking the 3.7 with the VVT 5.7 which switched to Iriduim plugs in '08 or '09.

I’m afraid you’ll make fun of me. :oops:

Here’s where I got the info:
“2007 JEEP LIBERTY 3.7L 6-cyl Engine Code [K]”

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclel ... +LIBERTY+K

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:04 am

7 sets of plugs in mine so far, ( plus ones I have done for others) no anti seize ever, have never had a problem of getting the plugs out.
Autolites Double Plats is the only thing I have ran to date

Albert · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:37 am

I have used anti-seize. Very sparingly. No problems. When I put the plugs in I thread them by hand with the ratchet off the extension until they are finger tight and then put the ratchet on and 1/2 turn max. Since I do it myself and don't need to drive to a shop I always do it in the morning when the engine is "stone cold". I have never had any problems with any of my vehicles doing it this way.

That said, I have also not used anti-seize when changing plugs and not had problems.(not with the KJ but an aluminum head engine-"stone cold" like I said)

I have been using the OEM NGK's with the copper core with no issues. They are only around $18 for 6 at NAPA. I might try the Autolite double platinum next time if I feel like it when the time comes..

Since the plugs were already changed I wouldn't worry about it. See how thw iridiams last. Pull the #1 plug when you get 25,000 miles on them and check it out.

I am not a professional mechanic or anything like Troy is, just a back yard one. I don't want to mislead anyone.

Just my experience and :2cents:

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:40 pm

Albert wrote:

I have used anti-seize. Very sparingly. No problems. When I put the plugs in I thread them by hand with the ratchet off the extension until they are finger tight and then put the ratchet on and 1/2 turn max. Since I do it myself and don't need to drive to a shop I always do it in the morning when the engine is "stone cold". I have never had any problems with any of my vehicles doing it this way.

That said, I have also not used anti-seize when changing plugs and not had problems.(not with the KJ but an aluminum head engine-"stone cold" like I said)

I have been using the OEM NGK's with the copper core with no issues. They are only around $18 for 6 at NAPA. I might try the Autolite double platinum next time if I feel like it when the time comes..

Since the plugs were already changed I wouldn't worry about it. See how thw iridiams last. Pull the #1 plug when you get 25,000 miles on them and check it out.

I am not a professional mechanic or anything like Troy is, just a back yard one. I don't want to mislead anyone.

Just my experience and :2cents:

My mechanic said that he would rather take the risk of using anti-seize than not using it. He guarantees his work, so I’m not worried about it. Spark plugs probably only get torque from the factory, as I don‘t know anyone else who uses torque (maybe dealers).

I can’t remember for sure, but there were a few guys on the forum who liked the Iridium plugs. I’m sure they’ll work fine, but like tjkj2002 said, I might not utilize all the juice out of them. It doesn’t mean they aren’t good plugs, but perhaps overkill for my application. :?:

Either way, the stock plugs looked good at 25,000 miles. I might pull one of the Iridium’s at 40,000 for a checkup. :JEEPIN:

Boiler · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 4:46 pm

http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/A ... /81343.pdf

Permatex lists "spark plug threads" in its uses list. In the directions section, they also say to use the original torque specs. When I did mine, I put a drop on the side of the threads, folded up a paper towel into a thick strip, and then rotated the plug on the strip to wipe the anti-seize very thinly into the threads.

Tom, if you change them every month, of course you don't need anti-seize! :goink:

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:46 pm

Boiler wrote:

Tom, if you change them every month, of course you don't need anti-seize! :goink:

yes anymore I just open the hood and yell real loud, old ones outnew ones in and its done, quick and easy less than 5 minutes! :ROTFL:

But really I mean almost 150,000 miles, almost 6 years in September, not that many times......... :pepper:

Albert · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:12 pm

tommudd wrote:

Boiler wrote:

Tom, if you change them every month, of course you don't need anti-seize! :goink:

yes anymore I just open the hood and yell real loud, old ones outnew ones in and its done, quick and easy less than 5 minutes! :ROTFL:

But really I mean almost 150,000 miles, almost 6 years in September, not that many times......... :pepper:

You must have a special Tanzanian growl....or something Tom... :ROTFL:

SurfGuitar141 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:06 pm

I did my plugs just before it turned 30K, they didn't look bad, but they looked due....

I went with the Autolite Double Plat's, no anti-seize, the originals didn't have anti-seize, so I saw no reason to use it....

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:58 pm

Changed mine at 30k with Autolite DP and used Anti Seize. Ive got a torque wrench built into my wrist that automatically adjusts for the lower torque needed with anti seize.

BugginKJ · **Joined:** Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:35 pm **Posts:** 4576

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Changed mine at 30k with Autolite DP and used Anti Seize. Ive got a torque wrench built into my wrist that automatically adjusts for the lower torque needed with anti seize.

Back in my automotive wrenching days those type of torque jobs by other people were always money makers for me :ROTFL:

Aluminum head = ALWAYS us a torque wrench and no anit-seize. Also if I remember properly, anti-seize reduces(same as extentions) torque which would require more torque. If a spark plug is properly torqued there is no need for anti-seize.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:48 pm

BugginKJ wrote:

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Changed mine at 30k with Autolite DP and used Anti Seize. Ive got a torque wrench built into my wrist that automatically adjusts for the lower torque needed with anti seize.

Back in my automotive wrenching days those type of torque jobs by other people were always money makers for me :ROTFL:

Aluminum head = ALWAYS us a torque wrench and no anit-seize. Also if I remember properly, anti-seize reduces(same as extentions) torque which would require more torque. If a spark plug is properly torqued there is no need for anti-seize.

X2

At work over 90% of all broken wheel studs we see have anti-seize on the threads.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:34 pm

who the hell puts anti-seize on wheel studs lol

x2 on that, i saw it when I was working in a shop too, that and white lithium on the belts... excuse.. "It was squeeling.. so i greased it.. now my alt and temp lights are on

there were moments where the belt would stop moving as the accessories slipped and it gave a "timing light" sort of effect, apparently he started the truck and just started spraying until the noise stopped

half a can later he came and saw me

:roll:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:06 pm

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

who the hell puts anti-seize on wheel studs lol

x2 on that, i saw it when I was working in a shop too, that and white lithium on the belts... excuse.. "It was squeeling.. so i greased it.. now my alt and temp lights are on

there were moments where the belt would stop moving as the accessories slipped and it gave a "timing light" sort of effect, apparently he started the truck and just started spraying until the noise stopped

half a can later he came and saw me

:roll:

Yeah Discount Tires tried to put anti-seize on my wheel studs,I stopped them and made them clean them very well.They stated that Chrysler wheel studs need anti-seize,I said yeah right and by the way there not Chrysler wheel studs moron.

Then they spent the next 2 hours scrubbing off all the tire shine they sprayed on my tires also,made them go out and buy Simple Green also to do it the right way.They follow my instructions to the "T" now when I come in for my free balance and rotate,which is real simple by any means since it is a custom setup.Tire pressure at 28psi,torque is 110lbs-ft,and no anti-seize or tire shine.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:49 pm

rofl, not sure if that's classic, or epic

SavageUrge · **Posted:** Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:08 am

I have used anti-seize on my lug nuts since the day I started wrenching on my own vehicles and have never had an issue.

No anti-seize on stock plugs?

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