Thinking about Diving in to the CRD world.

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

Hey guys, just posting here to seek some info. Recently, I have been searching for something to replace my '98 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. Its been a good vehicle, but being a 4.0, I can't accomplish tasks like towing a vehicle home (XJ/MJ) without calling on a friend for help. I have been looking at J-20's, and even took a '87 Grand Wagoneer for a ride. Disappointed by the thought of sub 10 fuel mileage, and driving a car older than me... :roll:

I had completely forgot about the awesome towing capacity of the CRD KJ, and how much newer they are...

It would be small enough to get good fuel mileage, nice enough to be something I would like to own, new enough to not have big problems, and stout enough to rescue an MJ or two if needed. :mrgreen:

Listing: http://apps.dealerconnection.com/dealer ... dImg=false

Then last night as I was driving home I found a Diesel KJ. Caught my eye in the lot, its an '05 with 54,000 miles. 6-05 build, runs pretty decent. Its got the 242, keyless, 2" reciever. I was told it was turned into the dealer by an "older couple" (aren't they all... :lol:

) who used it to tow a bass boat, and recently got a pontoon and stepped up to a F150. Its a little hard starting after its been sitting. Both times I have went to take it out (last night and today) it seems to want to crank for 5-10 seconds, and after coming back from the drive, fires right up on the first few rev's. I took all I learned from the test drive, and came here for info. After spending time on here last night I read about the flash, and the 60 MPH test. It was sitting at 1900, which means its been touched by the fine people at Chrysler I take it.

My question goes to you guys... What should I be aware of when looking at this thing? I am a mechanic by trade, and have been playing with XJ's/MJ's for years. I had a Mechanical Injection '97 Cummins Ram the trans went out on, but I loved the oil burner. This KJ seems like a different world to me, and I just wanted to come to the people that knew them best, the people that love them, for info on what to be nervous about/what is a turn and run thing to look for...

How do you guys like them?
Reliability wise... Good purchase?
Any more dealer lot tests I could do before buying it?

Lastly, I beat them up quite a bit... They were asking 15,995, and after some noogies and headlocks, they are chomping at me to take it home today for about 12,700. Good price?

Thanks guys, I look forward to being part of the Elite sometime in the future. :SOMBRERO:

Rob L.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 2:37 pm

Rob.

The hard starting after setting sounds like air in the fuel that can be cured with a lift pump. The relay, fuse and most of the wiring is already installed.

If your going to do much towing you'll want a decent torque converter so you can get all the power the engine is capable of. Then the GDE "Full torque" Eco tune will supprise you how well it tows. It even works very well with the F37 transmission tune towing our 3000-3500# travel trailer:BANANA:

The 05's came with a 7/70 power train warranty and is transferable to the second owner for a fee if I remember correctly that you want to think about :SOMBRERO:

Joe

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:02 pm

My son drives and 06 and I have an 05 both with ca. 36k miles. No big issues for either. GDE ECM eco tune and TCM flash will substantially improve mpg, ca. 20%, and mostly undo F37 factory TCM flash while improving life of your torque convertor. Look at filter head - if wiring plug on front drivers side is big and blue you have the GOOD new head if not it will need replacement (Mopar Parts of America ca $80 if I recall gets you the new head with new filter and the separate new fuel heater wiring - some like the lift pump but I've had ZERO problems after install of new head although I did have air in the fuel line issues with the original). Seller should document all new fluids; new filters; and at that mileage a new serpentine belt; plus give you some idea of brake pad life left. If it still has the Optima red top battery you will likely need a new one relatively soon. Some, my son, have had window regulatory problems (all KJs not just CRD) fix is ca. $90 per window and 1 each to replace plastic part with metal. PM me if you want more.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:45 pm

A Ford dealer added Four Wheel Drive to the machine :ROTFL:

http://apps.dealerconnection.com/dealers/harvford/used-inventory?_eventId_vehicledetails=true&vin=1J8GL48535W697092&certifiedPreownedImg=false&dealerPACode=09564

Seriously thought, it looks nice. I would look at the nood guides before you go further. Also check to verify it has Trac-Loc. Lastly, verify it has a trailer tow package.

Good luck and welcome to the forum,
Boilermaker2

flman · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:34 pm

automan2164

Sounds like you like it, you got the right price, so you might as well go for it. What can I say, did you read any posts where some one did not like the CRD? Maybe from people that don't own one? Get your tunes from GDE, go Eco or Hot for the engine, and get the GDE TCM flash to make the most of the low end torque. I cant speak for others, but I am doing fine on 2 of them with no lift pump mod.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:52 pm

That price may be very good. the hard starting is likely air in the fuel. It happens on these... the old style fuel head was more of a problem than the new they say... mine came with the newer version installed. I have had no issues except when I tried to change the filter and bleader valve to something that was to be better but I didn't get it right and mine kept pulling air and shutting down as soon as I got on the street when I first started it in the morning. I changed back to the stock bleader and no more issues with hard starting and stalling. Yes a lift pump will fix it but if the fuel system is air tight as can be like mine seems to be now there isn't dire need to install the lift pump IMO.

I have had mine for a bit over a year and have had no major problems that I needed to take it to the shop for. I have done my own oil and filter changes. I was a bit reserved at first about it untill I drove one but now I'm glad I have my CRD. I plan on the GDE eco tune late this month too... . THe CRD is a great little Jeep. I never even drove a gas version...... I'm wondering how different a gasser would be. I know a few people that have gassers maybe they would let me take their's for a spin :?:

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks guys! I fuzzed on the price and its actually 13700 at the moment. If 12700 would be a good deal I'm going to shoot for that and see how close I can get. It's reassuring to get some good info from you guys, some of the thing I've read here makes them seem finnicky and problematic, and I am sure they are to a point, but I think I could deal with that.

I called the dealer to run the VIN, no track lock, but that's not a deal breaker. I know it has a hitch, but I am unsure as to whether it is part of a factory installed tow package.

Thanks again fellas, ill keep you posted as to when I get or don't get it.

Rob L. :BANANA:

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:56 pm

if you are in doubt of the price being fair or not run it through http://www.kbb.com/used-cars and http://www.nadaguides.com/ and see what you come up with. Kelly blue book is usually higher in my area and NADA lower but NADA is what my credit union used to value it when I got mine.

BTW the BFG tires on that are decent tires too if they have good tread left.

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

Being an '05 I could still put in the Overhead Console.. (VIC I think) as long as I found one from an '04 or later, correct?

Rob L.

stoutdog · **Posted:** Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:53 pm

automan2164 wrote:

Being an '05 I could still put in the Overhead Console.. (VIC I think) as long as I found one from an '04 or later, correct?

Rob L.

Yes, viewtopic.php?f=98&t=27605

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:34 pm

Glad to see you found your way over here. The noob guide will take you through the basic set of knowledge you need for this Jeep, problematic and finnicky, ya they can be, but nearly all of that is solved with just a few simple things - ORM MAP cleaning, EHM etc.

bakersoil · **Joined:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:43 am **Posts:** 68

Put another battery in it. Didnt think my red top was bad but the new Interstate battery spins it over faster and it fires right up.

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks for the tips fellas... I went in there today, the owner wasn't in, but I told the salesman what terms I wanted. Right now its 13700 out the door, I told them I want it to be closer to 12000 out the door, and I was keeping my black rims and tires off of the ZJ. I have 2 MJ's they could go on. If I could get them to 12000 out the door it would make my payments only 150 a month... I know they won't, but I have to overshoot to get where I need to be. :roll:

Part of the game. He's going to pass this on to the owner in the morning tomorrow. Couldn't leave without snapping a pic of the two sitting together though. :SOMBRERO:

Hopefully they will want to sell it to me cheap after trying to scare them off with all the info I presented them!

Rob L.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:27 pm

Personally I think $13,700 is a little too high for a Sport model. I see that it does have the tow hooks, etc...but it's still a Sport and those are no where near the resale value. You can buy the Sports all day long for less than that. It does look like a nice one though.

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

LibertyCRD wrote:

Personally I think $13,700 is a little too high for a Sport model. I see that it does have the tow hooks, etc...but it's still a Sport and those are no where near the resale value. You can buy the Sports all day long for less than that. It does look like a nice one though.

So what would be a good price? Is the 12000 I am shooting for a good ballpark? Remember that I will be paying tax title and licence also... what "out the door" price should I be aiming for?

Rob L.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:03 pm

Have your been to http://www.autotrader.com/ yet?

They will come up easily if you expand your search to jeep liberty and diesel powerplant. Leave off Liberty and you'll see the WK CRD :wink:

This should give you a very good idea of the local retail price...

Good luck,
Boilermaker2

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

boilermaker2 wrote:

Have your been to http://www.autotrader.com/ yet?

They will come up easily if you expand your search to jeep liberty and diesel powerplant. Leave off Liberty and you'll see the WK CRD :wink:

This should give you a very good idea of the local retail price...

Good luck,
Boilermaker2

It does, and I have, but just in this thread alone I have had a couple members tell me that what I was thinking was still too high for a sport, but its lower than most on CL/Autotrader... The KBB retail is 14250, and 700 of my 13700 is tax, title, and license... So I was just asking what I Should be paying. I am shooting for 12000 out the door if I can.

Basically, my move thus far is to wait until they really start struggling on meeting my demands. I want to see beads of sweat on the salesmans brow when we finally sign papers. :wink:

It was too easy to get them to agree to the 13700... They didn't look like they worked hard enough.

I appreciate the help, just looking for what you guys think the sport should be selling for, since I am clueless. I would hate to overpay because I don't know what I am doing, and then be pissed because I overpaid... This is a new arena for me. Ask me what an MJ/XJ goes for, and I'll nail you a price, the CRD is a foreign bird in my woods.

Any direction is appreciated.
Rob L.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:49 am

Well, I've got a fully loaded Limited with all the bells and whistles, sunroof, heated power leather seats, etc. The whole nine yards. And last week I looked up the values on mine on NADA, KBB, and Edmunds True Market Value....and then I averaged the three. Looks like mine values for around $10K trade and around $12K to sell it outright.

So for a Sport model, I don't know what book they are using to price it...but personally there is no way I'd give them more than $11K for it. It's a nice looking Jeep...but the values on them are just not that high and if you pay $13,700 for it plus tax, title, and license...you'll be immediately upside down on it when you leave the lot.

My Dad found a Sport model listed here yesterday for $8,400.

automan2164 · **Joined:** Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:27 pm **Posts:** 9

Sweet, that helps me ballpark it, thanks!

Just got back from Jeep, had them look up the serivce history... What a wrap sheet. It did have a service contract, which is good. But, here is the list of non-wear stuff that is on it:

9/2/05 Exhaust - 29 miles
8/27/05 Engine NTF - 1465 miles
1/17/06 Rear Pads - 4111 miles
2/9/06 Parking Brake - 4552 miles
5/12/06 EGR Valve - 7857 miles
8/28/06 EGR Valve - 11523 miles
9/11/06 Safety recall - 11762 miles
12/13/06 CSN#F37 Replace TC - 14210 miles
12/13/06 TC, service contract - 14210 miles
8/18/09 Replace Valve body - 42307 miles
12/22/09 Valve seperator PCV - 46030 miles
2/3/10 Turbo lines, oil - 47255 miles
8/17/10 Throttle pos sensor, brake combination valve tube - 53792

So, I am a little concerned about the valve body, but should I be? I see the dreaded F37, but this was too long ago to get the new TC, correct? Is there anything on this list, or missing from this list I should be concerned about?

Thanks again guys, y'all are lifesavers. Sorry if I ask too many questions, I hope you don't mind, I jsut don't want to get burned by something I don't quite understand yet. For all I know this list is just stuff that was common, but corrected, or a list that should make me run.

Rob L. :notworthy:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Sep 07, 2010 2:02 pm

Some of those items such as the brakes are common among Chrysler products in general. Chrysler vehicles had HORRIBLE brakes. Some models in the Chrysler lineup have even been recalled because of it. So while it's not good, it is normal.

For the CRD.. the TC, valve body, EGR, etc...that's all normal stuff. Most of us have had those issues.

A GDE tune and Euro version torque converter in most cases will cure everything on that list from being a recurring issue. The important thing is that as you have noted, it had a service contract and apparently it was used judging from how often the previous owner took it to the shop. So that would lead me to believe that the Jeep was serviced regularly and somewhat cared for and not neglected. That is a good sign.

Thinking about Diving in to the CRD world.

Who is online