Well now that I think more about it, I take that back about positive camber. Both times when I installed the lift kit I added JBA upper control arms at the same time. They are longer than stock so they will push the top of the tire out. That was probably the cause.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Depends on the type of suspension. Some cars with struts don't have an upper control arm (MacPherson strut suspension).



Also, if the vehicle was aligned with worn out struts, then new ones installed that would "raise" the vehicle back to factory height and it would have to be alligned again. Also can throw allignment off slightly when replacing struts on the type that doesn't have upper arms (MacPherson Strut design) because the strut bolts don't always go back in the exact position as there is usually a but of play in bolt holes, etc.

Anyway, back to our jeeps, we have upper and lower control arms so on ours it depends on the change in height, where the control arms were (angle), where they are now(angle), and length of them.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

A strut replaces the upper control arm,if you do not have a upper control arm you have a strut,if you do have a upper control arm(like the KJ) you have a coilover shock.

Oh and a "strut" does the same thing as a shock(but beefier to take the stress from no upper control arm) and have zero effect on how high or low your vehicle sits unless it is a air strut(shock).So if your sagging new struts or shocks will not do anything to raise your vehicle height,the vehicles ride height is 100% controlled by your springs(coil or leafs).


And lastly almost all struts do have a slight play in the 2 mount bolts(GM cars do not),never more then 0.3 degrees which is not visually noticeable anyways.Most require either smaller bolts or to actually enlongate the strut holes to get any adjustment beyond 0.3 degrees.A very few actually have cam bolts installed in one of the two strut mount bolts,some VW's and Chrysler minivans have that option(not standard).

Right, so technically we have a coilover shock, but I'd have to disagree that coil springs are the ONLY thing that determines ride height. A strut itself if pressurized by a gas charge (which many are), does have an impact on ride height, even if it is minor, but mainly only on little cars that don't weigh much. I think that we can all agree that on our jeeps the coil spring is the culpret for sagging.

For this instance, if the jeep is having tire wear issues, the first thing to check is the tie rod ends and ball joints. If they are good, THEN check the allignment and adjust. The ONLY reason for replacing springs, even if it is sagging is to gain that little bit of ride height back, but then why put a factory spring on it that will sag again in a few years? You might as well get a coupple inches of lift for ~ the same price buy buying aftermarket lift springs. Either way you need to get an allignment after your all said and done.

If I were stock and sagging a little causing tire wear issues, I'd realign it since putting a factory spring on it would only have the same issue again later on. Once you're sagging, it won't sag much more over time so you might as well allign it - Unless you want to lift it!

IF you are set on getting springs, consider the lift. You do not HAVE to replace shocks especially if you do not go off road alot and don't need the long travel rear shocks. The factory font shocks have the same extended length as the OME shocks so you do not HAVE to replace. The factory rear shocks will work as well, but the long travel shocks allow for more flex off road.

Here's the prices from http://www.boulderbars.com/frankenlift_crd.htm where they sell springs seperately:

OME790 CRD FRONT SPRINGS: $154.45 /PAIR
OME948 REAR SPRINGS: $151.55 /PAIR

So for ~ $300.00 you can fix your sagging with a budget lift

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Yes most shocks/struts are gas charged but they do not effect ride height,they only control the rate of the springs up/down travel.I do not run the stock setup(or anything close to stock) on my KJ and can take all 4 of my Nitrogen charged shocks off and will not drop 1mm at all.

This thread is somewhat timley for me

My CRD is at the dealer's to get a leaking ps rack replaced. Did anyone know the front differential needs to come out to replace the rack The dealer didn't!
Any way they just called and said my chrysler warranty pays for toe adjustment but my caster and camber are out and nothing they did would cause that and I agree with that. So this thread just told me why they are out. I rotate tires every 6k as specified and the original bad years were replaced at 34k but still had tread on them and were not worn uneven.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)