06 CRD, 100,000 Miles - What to do now?

my06silvercrd · **Joined:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:16 am **Posts:** 3

Hi everyone,

I just recently found LOST.. Very cool! Spent a lot of time lurking and wanted to finally ask some questions.

I have an 06 CRD that I've owned since around 65k. All I ever done is change the oil every 5k, did the CAT filter upgrade. She's just turned over 100,000 miles I fear that some service is my future. She's not giving me any problems (other than the turbo whistling a bit more than she used to) to speak of but I wanted to get prepared before I took her to the stealership to know what to look/ask for when taking her in.

I've never off-roaded her other than light camping/dirt roads so no major abuse has taken place.

Any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

J

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

First and foremost, your due for a timing belt replacement. Most people do the water pump while you at it.

Other common thing people do are:

Modifing the crank case vent - either provent or open vent known as the elephant hose mod. If the vehicle has had the stock CCV to 100K, the intercooler is probably full of oil. I'd clean it out, but that's just me.

Cat fuel filter is much better filtration but without a pump pushing fuel thru it I personally worry about too much restriction to the CP3. Solution, a electric fuel pump. I would recommend a different filter head as the stocker is so prone to suck air, but that is debatable.

Kill the egr - SEGR or Green Diesel program.

At 100k, change every fluid in the vehicle. Coolant can be changed with the timing belt. I change brake and power steering fluid at a 100k. The drive train (trans and filters, diffs, transfer case) should have been done a intervals prior to 100K but if not DO IT. Check the front ball joints and front wheel bearing for play. They'll wear out eventually, pay attention to them.

Ok. what did I forget?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:50 am

Yes, 100,000 miles is EXPENSIVE in a CRD. A lot of folks sell or trade them at this time, rather than fork over the $1,000 a dealership would charge to do everything that needs to be done plus parts. Oh, and that's if you can find a dealership competent enough to do the work without killing your engine. Good luck.

my06silvercrd · **Joined:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:16 am **Posts:** 3

LibertyCRD wrote:

Yes, 100,000 miles is EXPENSIVE in a CRD. A lot of folks sell or trade them at this time, rather than fork over the $1,000 a dealership would charge to do everything that needs to be done plus parts. Oh, and that's if you can find a dealership competent enough to do the work without killing your engine. Good luck.

Wow...don't rain on my parade too much.

Any ideas on what needs to be done? Can anyone recommend a competent dealer in FL?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:23 am

Well, like he said.. all your fluids need to be changed if you haven't already. Transmission flush usually runs $100 up here, Coolant flush usually runs $100, then you have the differentials which the dealerships will get $150 to do. Then you've got the transfer case. Basically, you could easily spend $500 just getting the fluids done alone. I'd strongly encourage you to do the front diff and transfer case yourself. Lots of folks do the rear diff themselves too..but it is slightly more involved. The transmission is usually a shop item only..unless you're fairly mechanically inclined. Same thing for the coolant.

Then... the timing belt and water pump and pullys need to be changed...and you're looking at $500 just for parts there. On top of that, add another $500 for labor if a dealership does it.

So as you can see... you can easily spend $1,500 doing the proper 100K service interval. If you skip certain things, or do some of the work yourself, you can get it down to around $1,000 or less.

Can't help with a dealership... but one time I did call Chrysler at the 800 number and they helped me find a 5-star dealership locally that is great. Might try calling them at the help line and tell them you need to find a good shop to service your diesel.

my06silvercrd · **Joined:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:16 am **Posts:** 3

Thanks for the info guys. I'll run down the list here...

Timing belt - I'll have the dealer do this, but is the an online source I can buy that from and save a few bucks?
Water pump & coolant flush - Same here, can I buy the pump and save some?
Clean inter-cooler - I assume I can do this myself with just flushing it with Simple Green or something the like once removed?
Electric fuel pump - Is there a straight drop-in unit I can purchase and can you point me to an install thread possibly?
Kill EGR - Not sure what this is???
Tranmission flush & filter - I'll have the dealer do this but should I buy the filter online?
Powersteering - Is it really needed to flush this? Can I do this easily enough? Just drain and refill?
Brakes - I can do that..
Diffs - I can do these..
Transfer case - Same here..
Front wheel bearings & ball joints - Should I just have the dealer do this and buy the parts online?

What about the turbo? Do I need to have it inspected or anything?

As for the crank case vent mod, any direction on that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys! I won't be selling my CRD....it's the best vehicle I've ever had! Plan on giving it to my daughter when she turns 16.

J

reka12 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 2:19 pm

$1,500 for a TB replacement = 1.5 cents per mile for the next 100,000 miles. I don't know why one should jump ship because of the TB replacement. $1,500 for a reliable car is a whole lot less than just the interest paid on a new one!

Plan ahead and schedule the TB change. It will take your mechanic time to gather up the parts (water pump, tensioners, etc.)

flman · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:37 pm

my06silvercrd wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

Yes, 100,000 miles is EXPENSIVE in a CRD. A lot of folks sell or trade them at this time, rather than fork over the $1,000 a dealership would charge to do everything that needs to be done plus parts. Oh, and that's if you can find a dealership competent enough to do the work without killing your engine. Good luck.

Wow...don't rain on my parade too much.

Any ideas on what needs to be done? Can anyone recommend a competent dealer in FL?

Dont worry, $1000.00 wont even be enough for a down payment on a new vehicle, let alone the payments, and the higher fuel costs of a non diesel vehicle. Suck it up, it is time for a TB :rockon:

dkenny · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:54 pm

are you able to work on the jeep yourself?

then with a couple of special tools( under $100 for both). you can change you timing belt..
the special tool makes it easier..I glad there was no mic when I changed my wifes, when I changed the CP3..I cannot post the words..THEY WOULD BAN ME FOR LIFE!!!..with just cause..yes I changed the timing belt without any special tools..but I won't do it again either..

electric fuel pump -- several of us are using cheap diesel fuel pump from auto parts suppliers..if you want to go through the trouble the lift pump from a 03 on Ram fits..so I've heard..

viscous heater? might be a good time to change it??

-dkenny

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 8:03 pm

Where in Florida are you? The independent shop that replaced my engine is on the SE coast, and is an HONEST mechanic. Add to that, they now know about 1000 times more about the CRD and changing the timing belt than the dealers EVER will. The rest of the stuff is easy-peasy for them, its the same for every vehicle.

I have a full collection of the special tools, and can provide them to that shop if you take your CRD to them. They aren't cheap, but they WILL be cheaper than a dealer for the work, and you will know that it is done PROPERLY the first time.

wolcott · **Joined:** Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:16 pm **Posts:** 108

I would like to know which shop Geordi is referring to. I'm up in Gainesville, FL, and none of the local shops are CRD experts. For a big job, like the timing belt, if I don't have the time to do it myself, 'd love to find someone who is competent.

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

For the CCV; search either provent or EHM

The lift pump from the Cummins is MY04.5 to 07 (not MY 07.5 (6.7 engine)). It's an in-tank pump and canister. Lots of external pump options (Kennedy, Facet 40109, etc.)

The ball joints and wheel bearing don't necessarily need to be done at 100K, but they will wear out so at 100K you ought to start regularly inspecting them. They might go at 200K,or they may already be toast. Just depends on driving style and terrain. Better let the dealer do it. It can take some special tools.

The EGR is the exhaust gas recirculator. It's a mechanism to recirculate exhaust into the intake to cool the combustion process to lower nitrous oxide production. EGR is a problematic system at best - soot in the intake - (it's only for emissions). At worst (CRD) it's very problem prone. (The exhaust soot from the egr and the oil vapor from the CCV creates black peanut butter in the intake. That's what we are trying to prevent.) There are different ways to deal with it. Search SEGR. Green Diesel is a vendor that sells performance ECM programs that, among other things, kills the egr electronically.

Turbo shouldn't need anything. If you inspected the compressor wheel, you'd look for an oil leak from the seal which will indicate a rebuild is necessary. Problem is, if your CRD has been run stock for 100K your intake is full of oil from the CCV (that's the problem with it). So you can't tell if the turbo oil seal is bad. Don't worry about the turbo.

To correctly clean the Intercooler, it'll need to be removed and fill it and slosh it with solvent several times, then dry. This is the reason to do the EHM.

My experience with auto parts store trans filters isn't good. I've had two completely fail (in my truck not the CRD). I only use Mopar trans filters.

The power steering system really isn't designed for a "fluid replacement". No drain plug. You'll have to open the system to get the fluid out. It's doesn't have to be done. But it will help the system perform well for a long period of time. Most just let the system fail then replace the fluid at repair time. I don't like that idea. But it my go several 100K without issue.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Competent Dealer is an oxymoron. Please find a VW TDI Guru who would probalby do a better job than any dealership. Don't forget a timing belt job shoud include a water pump, tensioners and rollers.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Oct 06, 2010 9:17 pm

The shop is called A&S Auto (Might be A&S Transmission) in Deerfield Beach, Fl. Here is a Google link to their info:

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&biw=1440&bih=675&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=a%26s+auto+repair&fb=1&gl=us&hq=a%26s+auto+repair&hnear=Boca+Del+Mar,+FL&cid=1624978555535512029

I've been going there for over 20 years now, and they have been great every time.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:16 pm

my06silvercrd wrote:

Thanks for the info guys. I'll run down the list here...

Timing belt - I'll have the dealer do this, but is the an online source I can buy that from and save a few bucks?
Water pump & coolant flush - Same here, can I buy the pump and save some?
Clean inter-cooler - I assume I can do this myself with just flushing it with Simple Green or something the like once removed?
Electric fuel pump - Is there a straight drop-in unit I can purchase and can you point me to an install thread possibly?
Kill EGR - Not sure what this is???
Tranmission flush & filter - I'll have the dealer do this but should I buy the filter online?
Powersteering - Is it really needed to flush this? Can I do this easily enough? Just drain and refill?
Brakes - I can do that..
Diffs - I can do these..
Transfer case - Same here..
Front wheel bearings & ball joints - Should I just have the dealer do this and buy the parts online?

What about the turbo? Do I need to have it inspected or anything?

As for the crank case vent mod, any direction on that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys! I won't be selling my CRD....it's the best vehicle I've ever had! Plan on giving it to my daughter when she turns 16.

J

Just be warned most shops will not install customer suplied parts,and if you find one they will most likely not warranty anything to do with the job so if you get a halfa$$ed install your SOL on getting them to fix it and they will make you sign a waiver before hand that is air tight in court.

Patrick Henry · **Posted:** Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:37 pm

As to the turbo, I'd remove the air inlet boot and see if there's any play in the impeller by hand. My check on the replacement turbo that went into mine was no detectable play at all. The turbo whistle on mine got noticiably louder before the bearing went out. Dunno if the whistle was coincidence or not but if it was a sudden uptick I'd be checking.

DocB · **Posted:** Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:07 am

Could someone please explain what are the redundancies when changing the timing belt and water pump on our vehicle?
I'm kind of refering to the double charging for what has to be removed and replaced anyway.

And, wouldn't this be a good time to change the thermostat also? (mine's reading a little low now).

I'm getting close and just want to get this figured out ahead of time also.

DocB · **Posted:** Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:11 am

tjkj,

Even if they are genuine Mopar parts?

Just asking because the dealership charges at least double for the same parts. And they don't want to budge.

Any suggestions?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:14 am

DocB wrote:

Could someone please explain what are the redundancies when changing the timing belt and water pump on our vehicle?
I'm kind of refering to the double charging for what has to be removed and replaced anyway.

And, wouldn't this be a good time to change the thermostat also? (mine's reading a little low now).

I'm getting close and just want to get this figured out ahead of time also.

The waterpump on your engine is driven by the timing belt and why it is recommended to replace at the same time as the timing belt.If the labor for changing the timing belt is say 4 hours you will not charged any additional labor or at most .5 hours added for the waterpump replacement,I know at the shop I work at we do not charge any extra labor to replace the waterpump if doing the timing belt,you just pay for the waterpump.The waterpump does not need to be replaced or removed for the timing belt change as you are thinking.As in most cases the waterpump likes to leak a few thousand miles after a timing belt change and then you gotta dish out all that lobor cost again when it could have been taken care of with the timing belt.Most timing belt kits these days have everything included which is the timing belt,waterpump,all pulley's,and hydrualic tensioner(if your engine uses one).Makes it real handy for the tech and cheaper for the customer though no such kit is like that is out there for the CRD.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:16 am

DocB wrote:

tjkj,

Even if they are genuine Mopar parts?

Just asking because the dealership charges at least double for the same parts. And they don't want to budge.

Any suggestions?

I know at the dealership I worked at would not use customer supplied parts,even OEM parts.The dealership I go to for my trans flush will not either and the shop I work at(national chain) has a policy of no customer supplied parts besides tires and oil/oil filters.

06 CRD, 100,000 Miles - What to do now?

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