The mule needs new rotors and pads. I'm doing it Saturday. Anything to be careful about other than not breaking the brake line?

What size is the caliper bolt? It's an allen right?

Bill

Use good parts and CLEAN off the hub with a wire brush and remove all the loose rust. Clean off your components and if you live in the rust belt, use anti seize on the track where the pads slide.
I used the Wagner rotors and ceramic pads from O'Reiley with no problems.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

The caliper bolts are 21mm hex heads not allens and there are two of them. If this is your first time i would suggest a short breaker bar and a really nice slow and steady pull. Also kinda hard to get a racket in some spots so i would suggest an open end wrench.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

thank you I'll post how it goes

21mm is typo, they are 12mm. You may need to hold the slide plungers with a slim 15mm wrench.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

The caliper bolts are 12mm,the caliper mount bolts are 21mm,and never use a open end wrench unless you want to round off bolt heads.Do not use antiseize on any brake component bolts,loctite is okay and encouraged.

Not trying to hijack, but you bring me to a question.

I should be getting better mileage than what I am. When I was replacing my emergency brake pads, I had all 4 wheels off and the Tractor up on jacks. Put in 4-low, and the front brakes seemed to be "grabbing" the rotors.

I'm assuming (bad, I know) that replacing the front calipers are pricey. Anyone know for sure? Is there a less costly method of fixing the grabbing issue?

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

Check the "pins" the calipers slide on and the associated rubber boot. GDE has a post on this. Apparently these can get dirty in which case the calipers won't let the pads retract enough to clear the rotor so the brakes drag. If the rotors are not completly true then the brakes will "grab" each time the "high" spot comes around. Also note that disc brake pistons that are not stainless steel can expand over time and bind in the bore which also causes grabbing on slightly out of round rotors. A not uncommon problem just after a brake job that did not involve installing new or rebuilt calipers. I've experienced this on several vehicles including a Dodge D250 Cummins which had the most interesting front end hop until I figured out my brakes were to blame and installed new calipers.

Neither of the above issues are unique to the CRD or even to Jeep/Chrysler.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I've seen in the forums here when I did a search on front brakes that alot of people do pads,calipers and rotors when they do the change.
I'm just diving in so I am hoping for another decent encounter with my crd.

The MAP, EHM, ORM and oil change have all be super easy and thanks to this board, have turned out well.
If I can get the pads and rotors changed without issues I'll be feeling good

I also have a closed racheting socket wrench set so I am planning on using those along with my metric socket set. I am gradually collecting all metric tools for this thing that go in a seperate work box specifically for the CRD.

2 hours 20 min first time around, the 1st one was the hardest I think the second one took me 20 min.

It is a 21 mm for the brake caliper (2) bolts and the top one is a pain.

Nice new rotors and pads at 120 bucks!

Don't say anything about the new 1/2 in metric set ssshhhhhhh


Thank you for all the input.

Caliper lube and Copper paste is what is used on the caliper slide bolts and can be used on the pad slide clips. Loctite is a BRAND NAME not a specific item.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

getting the pads in the clips is a real PITA.