Fuel head time

flman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:33 pm

My wife's CRD has been stalling lately, so I decided to change the filter, first I pumped on the head, and could get no resistance what so ever. So put in the new filter, and still no resistance. I ended up taking out the top banjo bolt and filling the filter with a funnel and clean fuel until it ran out the bleeder screw. I pumped it with the bleeder closed, and no extra gaskets left in the housing. I guess I am going to order a new head, no fuel leaking out of the heater plug, and I always left it unplugged any ways.

dkenny · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:38 pm

I changed my wife's to a Racor model..no problems since..
I also added a lift pump and extra plumbing for bleeding the system use the pump instead of by hand.

-dkenny

flman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:04 pm

dkenny wrote:

I changed my wife's to a Racor model..no problems since..
I also added a lift pump and extra plumbing for bleeding the system use the pump instead of by hand.

-dkenny

I will do the OEM fuel head, if problem persists, then I will put in a lift pump.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:57 pm

flman wrote:

My wife's CRD has been stalling lately, so I decided to change the filter, first I pumped on the head, and could get no resistance what so ever. So put in the new filter, and still no resistance. I ended up taking out the top banjo bolt and filling the filter with a funnel and clean fuel until it ran out the bleeder screw. I pumped it with the bleeder closed, and no extra gaskets left in the housing. I guess I am going to order a new head, no fuel leaking out of the heater plug, and I always left it unplugged any ways.

My wifes CRD was stalling out as well. The old style head had air in it all the time. I would purge out the air and it would just come back. My primer bulb would stiffen up for a few hours and then be loose as a goose again. I changed the fuel head with the updated style and have not had any problems since.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:11 am

Come on flman, she is worth the lift pump.
You already gave her the tune. :ROTFL:

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:30 pm

for about $60 and next to nothing for changes in plumbing?? put the lift pump in!!

look if its too hard to mount it in the rear..then don't..at the moment my wifes in sitting...oh..yah..just sitting behind the battery in the engine compartment..yes all factory lines are in place..I just added an extension to the line from the tank..so I could reach the pump...I had already tried mounting in the back so I just use those electrical connections...but ran them up front..

the Big extra thing that I added was the lift pump bleed option..find the return line to the tank install a 'T' then plumb the filter output through a valve to this 'T'..when you need to bleed the air(change the filter)..just open the valve..and wait..make it so easy:) you'll wonder why Jeep didn't do this in the first place.

how many times to you want to mess with bleeding the air out??? I haven't since I installed the last lift pump. the next one will be an intank..

-dkenny

flman · **Posted:** Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:52 pm

I can count on 1 hand how many times I bled the 2 CRDs, most of the time it was for filter changes. If it works with no lift pump, that is how she will stay. If it needs the pump, it is going under the hood right near the separator head.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:09 pm

flman wrote:

I can count on 1 hand how many times I bled the 2 CRDs, most of the time it was for filter changes. If it works with no lift pump, that is how she will stay. If it needs the pump, it is going under the hood right near the separator head.

If you put the pump in the engine compartment, the lower you put the lift pump the less it will be likely to suck any air.
Just a little pesky Law of Physics.

flman · **Posted:** Thu Oct 14, 2010 6:56 am

warp2diesel wrote:

If you put the pump in the engine compartment, the lower you put the lift pump the less it will be likely to suck any air.
Just a little pesky Law of Physics.

Yeah, I understand that, but how much air will it suck, all depends on how much the lines leaks, and how much negative pressure the pump is capable of. Any ways, a mute point for now. And what if it does push a little bubble every once in a while? Have not heard any complaint since I had to manually prime the filter. Fuel head/Separator is on back order.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:54 am

ebbnflow wrote:

My wifes CRD was stalling out as well. The old style head had air in it all the time. I would purge out the air and it would just come back. My primer bulb would stiffen up for a few hours and then be loose as a goose again. I changed the fuel head with the updated style and have not had any problems since.

Update...

My wife's Jeep stalled again on her. I am never present when this happens. She says it always happens right after work in the same spot. Car has been sitting all day. Gets in. It starts fine. Backs out of parking space. Accelerates to about 15 mph and when she slows to stop at the stop sign in the parking lot, it dies. IT does not pull the car like the TC is in lock up. It just stalls. She is able to start it back up and then it is fine. This happened about 3 times in 1 month, so I replaced the fuel head. It hasn't happened in about month and half until just the other day. Primer bulb is firm. Any thoughts?

flman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:55 pm

ebbnflow wrote:

My wifes CRD was stalling out as well. The old style head had air in it all the time. I would purge out the air and it would just come back. My primer bulb would stiffen up for a few hours and then be loose as a goose again. I changed the fuel head with the updated style and have not had any problems since.

Update...

My wife's Jeep stalled again on her. I am never present when this happens. She says it always happens right after work in the same spot. Car has been sitting all day. Gets in. It starts fine. Backs out of parking space. Accelerates to about 15 mph and when she slows to stop at the stop sign in the parking lot, it dies. IT does not pull the car like the TC is in lock up. It just stalls. She is able to start it back up and then it is fine. This happened about 3 times in 1 month, so I replaced the fuel head. It hasn't happened in about month and half until just the other day. Primer bulb is firm. Any thoughts?

You could simply pump the primer, loosen the bleeder and repeat process until air free. Or you could go with the lift pump like others have done. My wife says so far so good since the filter replacement.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:33 pm

flman wrote:

My wife says so far so good since the filter replacement.

How long has it been since you have replaced yours? My primer bulb is firm all the time. I though that means no air in fuel. Correct me if I'm wrong?

flman · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:30 am

ebbnflow wrote:

flman wrote:

My wife says so far so good since the filter replacement.

How long has it been since you have replaced yours? My primer bulb is firm all the time. I though that means no air in fuel. Correct me if I'm wrong?

A couple of days ago.

That would be like having air in your brakes, if you pump them the pedal firms up. So pump it like you are bleeding brakes and get out the 11MM wrench and see if you have air?

Fuel head time

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