Im looking at buying a 2006 CRD with 68,000 miles from a used car lot. At low speeds when the tranny shifts from 2 to 3 it makes a rough clunk. The dealer said, "Aww its just the torque from the diesel", I said, "BS!". What is the problem and what does it take to fix it. I have searched but not found the answer I need. Need an answer quick so I know if I need to find another jeep! Thanks for the help.

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http://datingsidorsingel.com/

Mine was doing the same thing. I thought it was the torque converter based on posts I'd read. The older torque converter in the CRD was not as strong as the one now used.

The dealer, however, said I had a problem with my ECM (no codes being thrown and replaced under warranty thankfully). After they replaced it, the problem was indeed gone. However, it is now starting to show signs of doing it again. And the dealer said mine CRD has the newer style torque converter already. But I don't know how to determine if that is the case or not, or if it was in their because of manufacturer date or because of something done before I purchased it at 25k. (now at 87k).

The previous owner may have had a driving habit that taught your Smart TCM the bad habit of shifting hard.
With my experimental TCM, it puled the same stunt with a stock converter and then with my SunCoast/Transgo, now it is behaving. I suspect the rougher shifting between 2nd and 3rd is due to what the clutch packs need to do to change gears between 2nd and 3rd. I was driving a GM Crossover and it pulled the same stunt a few times.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I'd replace the auto tranny fluid and add a bottle of lubegard in it. Should fix your issue.

When I installed a new rebuilt auto tranny on an old Nissan, the transmission rebuilder would not honor the warranty unless I showed proof of using lubegard.

I think if you pulls the battery cable for 15 minutes the transmission will have to relearn. The dealer has the tools to retrain the transmission if that don't work.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

I think you may need to have a Chrysler dealer have the TCM perform a quick relearn. It requires one their specific scan tools. I think the memory in these things are kinda static. Simply removing the battery cable for a while may not accomplish the task. There was a member once who had a tranny completely rebuilt had to have the relearn done because it was shifting rough in every gear due to the new clutch packs and the TCM still operated as if the old ones were present. I would suspect that the battery was unhooked for a while during the uninstall. The relearn will give it a blank slate and allow you to teach it how you want to drive.

When did you purchase the Jeep? The euro TC, 68037142AA, was released in Jul '09. If you bought yours before this, you have the old one. However, they might be talking about the F37 TC, which is technically newer than the original, but not the latest.

Might be a red herring, but are you sure the clunk is coming from the transmission and not just CAUSED by the transmission shifting? It could be a bad motor mount that's just sloping around at a certain shift point based on the torque (like the shop mechanic said... sort of). You can verify if the mounts are gone by putting a long-shaft scope against the upper part of the mount and having a friend lift gently with a pry-bar between the engine and crossmember. Use a small wood block to avoid damage to the aluminum oil pan.

I'd look on the passenger (US) side first. They have a tendency to go earlier and more often (probably because of the direction of rotation of the engine).

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Bummer, had somthing similar happen early this morning and got P0700, P0732, and P0871 codes

drove it again today and when it did the clunk, it went into what i think was limp mode. had no power and would barely run. the manufacture date is 8/05 and the carfax does not show it to have any major repairs or recalls. could this be an f37 problem?

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http://datingsidorsingel.com/

I have that same habit and yes, it's learned into light throttle 2-3 shifts when the transmission is warm - BANG into gear. Mine doesn't do it when the transmission is cold however.

That will fix it for a while. But it will come back. No way of knowing how soon. Or you can drive a big trailer around for a couple of days. That will cure it for a while also.

That is a different monster. Would it shift at all? If it's still acting up, are stationary shifts into and out of Reverse or Drive real harsh? That's another sign of transmission limp. My torque converter failed on the way to the dealership to get the F37 done (no kidding). It felt like a manual trans that I forgot to push the clutch in when stopping. ('course a year later it started doing that with the F37 converter in anyways - turned out to be the pump.)
If the problem went away the next time you started the engine, it could be the mystery engine-no-power-not-official-limp mode. Happened to me twice in 78k miles. No idea why.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.