So I've been contemplating a lift for a while now, and if I were to take the plunge I would wanna do it right.. and that means expensive.. In the meantime, would the Boilers shims be a cheap (and safe) alternative? I realize the different in actual lift height between the shims and a real lift is night and day, but what type of benefits come from the shims? Are they just a way to add an inch to the Jeep or do they serve some other purpose I'm not aware of?

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08 Black Sport
Black Cragar Soft 8s
Bridgestone A/T Dueler Revo2s 245/70/16
Blacked out headlights/turn signals and smoked tails

"I don't believe in a lot of things, but I do believe in duct tape"- Miles Straume

youll add enough height to the front of the jeep to bring it closer to level with the rear is all.

Gotcha, thats kind of what I figured... I'm thinkin it will cut down on some of the rub I'm getting with my 245/70s too, and for under $40 I might just got for it. Thanks Dirty!

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08 Black Sport
Black Cragar Soft 8s
Bridgestone A/T Dueler Revo2s 245/70/16
Blacked out headlights/turn signals and smoked tails

"I don't believe in a lot of things, but I do believe in duct tape"- Miles Straume

I helped wingnuts install a set on his KK, pretty close to leveling the Jeep out.

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Aaron

A vehicle isn't yours till you learn to wrench on it yourself.

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport (Eugene, I am the Passenger, And I ride and I ride.)
1999 Chev Astro 2WD (Green, Daily Driver)
1997 Chev Astro AWD (Grumpy "The Heep", $250 Rally Van, 335k miles, 2" lift, 31" tires)

When i had my 3/8" shims and a clevis lift it measured 15/16" taller in the front.

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2010 KK 4WD BRILLIANT BLACK
Fox/King/Bilstein ATH BUMPERS ATH RACK GY DURATRACS

ATHFAB.com

some JBA shims just popped up in the classifieds for $20 shipped. they are 1/4" thick, dunno which ones you where gonna get from Boiler but you could do a clevis lift also to compensate.

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57208

What would a clevis do for me? Just add some height to the rear? Also what type of cost would I be looking at? And since I plan on keeping this Jeep for the long haul, would either have any adverse effects on the suspension over time?

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08 Black Sport
Black Cragar Soft 8s
Bridgestone A/T Dueler Revo2s 245/70/16
Blacked out headlights/turn signals and smoked tails

"I don't believe in a lot of things, but I do believe in duct tape"- Miles Straume

the clevis lift would lift the front more. the fork that mounts the shock and the lower control arm and the cv axle goes through is the clevis. you can loosen the bolt up on top of the clevis and lift the shock out of it a little ways and tighten it back down. some people put a couple conduit nuts in between so it will not loose the extra height over time. doing only these small amounts of lift will probably not hurt the other suspension hardly at all. over time your stock shocks will go out and your springs will sag anyway. for a little more rear lift you can add a couple of extra iso pads beneath the springs.

clevis = strut forks

The Rock Krawler lift is inexpensive and uses the "clevis" type lift. This type of the "budget" lifts put less wear on the stock front shocks. The shims are just to level out the stock setup. You could do the RK Lift w/ BDS rear shocks for less then $500 and you would be VERY happy with it. If you are just going to use the KK for light off-roading from time to time I think the RK lift would be a perfect fit. If your going to live on the off-road trails then go for something more extreme like the JBA lift.

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Out - 2008 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4
In - 2011 Jeep Liberty Carbon Edition http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3972889/2 ... ed-edition

If you want maximum cheap lift for now, with ability to add to it later, get a front spacer plus about 3/8" of clevis lift (which is essentially free). The clevis lift basically consists of using washers or as many have done, conduit nuts, to space the clevis that connects the strut assembly away from the strut, making the assembly longer by a small amount, and thus lifting the jeep. Very simple and nearly free mod.

Then go to the rear and add one extra upper isolator. From the dealer they are around twelve bucks each, give or take.

That should give you about an inch and a half in front and about 3/4" in the rear. Taller overall and remove some of the rake.

Finally with the parts added, in a year when you want more lift (you will...) you can keep using the same parts with a new spring lift. OME / rancho (or now bilstein?) in front and rear, plus the shims & clevis in front, and an extra iso or two in the rear, and you'll be as tall as you want to go without major mods.

I've got nearly 50 sets of spacers in my garage, in envelopes, waiting to go out if you need them. I went from selling 2 pairs a week to about 1 pair a month the instant I paid for 50 pairs....go figure.

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2005 KJ Renegade
Fabrications for sale: Aluminum Roof Rack (See Page 9)
Aluminum Gas Tank Skid -- Radiator Skid -- Front Strut Shims
Coming Soon: Rear Bumpers with lots of options

Whoa, good to see you around Boiler - been awhile since I've noticed you online.

Have those "personal issues" you mentioned awhile back settled down at all? I hope all's well for you. - oh, and "insert obligatory KK roof rack comment here"

/hijack

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2008 Jeep Liberty (KK) Ltd

X2

to clarify....
on KKs the rear iso are the same top and bottom, doesnt matter where you put them, and are only 1/2" thick. if someone wants some, i have three extras. only ended up using one on the left side to level mine out. could use three on yours to level it left and right and add a slight lift. pm me.