Super secret button???

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

I don't think I have this button but i am going to go look ha! I think the guys who are saying remote start are on to something, try starting the jeep with the button depressed.

MaineSleddah · **Posted:** Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:23 pm

It is definitely part of the starter install. On my next day off, Thursday, I will run through the entire setup procedure for setting the remote options to where they should be. The big one, I believe, is the tach needs to be set up. Some how me pushing that friggin button has totally messed up my remote start as well. It will start and idle for about 2 seconds and shut down and try to start again, like it is not seeing the tach signal... I will keep you posted...

devlish · **Joined:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 10:50 am **Posts:** 163

i used to install remote starters for a living at a local shop... still sell them for another shop (business associate) that installs them. I've NEVER heard of them interfering with "power" of the vehicle. I can see it doing something to not allow it to start properly like you just mentioned... there is usually a valet or override switch installed, but those switches will not even let it crank over at all!! (turn it to valet/override when working in the engine bay, so you don't accidentally push the START button while your hands are under the hood, ie... get's pushed in your pocket while leaning over truck etc... and you end up tearing off a few fingers there were next to a gear or whatever while it cranks over! oops)

I'm still confused as how it could affect your driveability. there must be a wire or something messed up. that Tach-Wire could be your cause for the no-start though... most remote start units will use that tach wire to let the unit know when the vehicle is running, it also helps keep the car safe, if the unit sees an unusually high/low RPM, it will shut off the vehicle as a safety procedure. nice feature! most tach wires are just tapped onto your factory tach wire, nothing special. make sure the connection is good and it's not shorting out anywhere

I'm gonna run this past my buddy too and see if he has any thoughts on this.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:36 pm

Starting up, running for 2 seconds and then dying is an indication that the SKIM module isn't getting the proper key information, NOT usually a lack of tach signal.

You can check that fairly easily. There is a red light on the instrument cluster, in a small blank circle near the fuel gauge by the bottom of the cluster.
Trigger the remote starter while sitting in the driver's seat, but do not have the key in the ignition. If there is a bad code or a problem with the SKIM reception in the car's system, then that red light will be lit solid.

I had a problem with my own remote system, the way it works is to "fool" the car's factory theft prevention into thinking there is a chipped key in the slot. It does this by sending the proper code through a thin wire loop that is glued to the factory key antenna behind the key switch. If the glue separates (mine did) then the system won't receive properly and the car thinks it has a non-chipped or non-approved key trying to start the engine. It runs for 2 seconds and shuts down.

The wiring for that antenna is VERY tiny, so could easily be harmed by all the sharp edges in the steering column if it wasn't secured properly during install.

MaineSleddah · **Posted:** Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:12 pm

I still do not have the remote starter working correctly. I will get to it sometime in the near future... Draining & cleaning the intercooler, new hoses and a ProVent installation first! :banghead:

I put a "patch" on my intercooler hose while waiting for my new samco hoses to arrive. I hope the patch holds for a few more days!!! :oops:

Ordered the Samco Kit, Intercooler Hoses, in black, from THMotorsports for $268.81 shipped to my door...
I am going to attempt to clean it without removing the intercooler. My plan is to park one front wheel on a ramp, allowing any oil to settle to the lower side. Then inserting a suction hose through the hose port and removing the oil. Then filling it with diesel fuel and pulling it out the low side and pumping back into the high side for about 15 minutes. Then removing the dirty fuel the same way I removed the oil. Lather rinse repeat until the solvent is clean and then compressed air blowing in the high side, overnight, to dry it out and one last check for fluid in the low side again and install the new hoses. I'll let you know how it goes. Stay tuned...

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:08 pm

Interesting idea for cleaning it out. Keep us posted.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:39 am

You're not supposed to know about the self destruct button. Seriously though, didn't you follow the links? http://site.justforjeeps.com/guide/82208998.pdf

You've set the system into learning mode and it's jacking up your horn and lights. The smoke thing is something else. Probably your split CAC hose. The inter-cooler will clean itself out. Do NOT clean it out with diesel unless you have a way to get all the remaining fuel out. Can you say centrifugal bomb?

litton · **Posted:** Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:07 am

Question about cleaning the intercooler. Why should it be necessary at all??? It would seem that if source of the oil is eliminated that eventually the mere act of running hard with the huge airflow volume the diesel pull, eventual the oil will simply be consumed.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:15 pm

litton wrote:

Question about cleaning the intercooler. Why should it be necessary at all??? It would seem that if source of the oil is eliminated that eventually the mere act of running hard with the huge airflow volume the diesel pull, eventual the oil will simply be consumed.

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner.

Super secret button???

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