JBA 4.5 question--reinforcement

Xodius · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:00 pm

First off, I am working on 2 hours of sleep in the past 48 hours so I could be delusional, lol. I thought someone posted a picture of their jeeps front suspension where they had welded some reinforcement plates (2"x2" roughly) directly below where you have to grind to get the JBA arms on. I could be mistaken...was that here...or a different forum? Do you need to do this? I was going to if it is needed but if not, it would save me a little time.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:27 pm

Nope do not have to do that
What you are thinking of was ....shoot his name just went out the window :banghead:

anyways someone cut out below for more drop, when they installed a 4 inch I think it was kit it drooped too far causing binding of the CVs so they welded in pieces where it had been cut

Or I assume thats what you are thinking about ! :ROTFL:

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:28 pm

I don't recall ever seeing anyone welding in any additional support there. I did cut out the pockets when I installed mine, but that is a very easy mod. I would not worry about adding anything additional.

Xodius · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:28 pm

tommudd wrote:

Nope do not have to do that
What you are thinking of was ....shoot his name just went out the window :banghead:

anyways someone cut out below for more drop, when they installed a 4 inch I think it was kit it drooped too far causing binding of the CVs so they welded in pieces where it had been cut

Or I assume thats what you are thinking about ! :ROTFL:

I think you're right. At least it sounds right, lol.
Thank you

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:36 pm

One of the JBA 6" lifts - and they decided the cutout was too much and welded in a plate.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41286&hilit=+CV+UCA+pockets

Xodius · **Posted:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:12 pm

Might be it...looks a little different though but it could very well be the post.

Here is another question...those of you that have gone to the Gen4.5 did you also install new bump stops or will the stock work fine?

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:21 pm

If you lift it, you need extended bump stops.

Xodius · **Posted:** Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:07 pm

long_tall_texan wrote:

If you lift it, you need extended bump stops.

It has been lifted for several years and I have never put any on. Did not know if these arms would require it though.

RED_KJ_666 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:14 pm

Before I had 33's the Bumpstops where pointless. If you get too much down travel your shocks will break clean off..... I have a set of Bilsteins in my basement that are 2 days old.

Xodius · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:41 am

Additional question for you...do the arms need to be greased or are they greased when you get them? My Father In Law installed them while I was at work, he got bored, lol.

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:45 am

You have to grease the ball joints. They are shipped dry.

Xodius · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:01 am

That is what I told my Father In Law and he was adamant that they were greased. What a boob, lol. Thank you.

Xodius · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:17 am

yellocoyote wrote:

Xodius wrote:

Additional question for you...do the arms need to be greased or are they greased when you get them? My Father In Law installed them while I was at work, he got bored, lol.

I greased mine when we installed them... just in case. Can't hurt.

That is what I actually told him when I showed up tonight. I was going to install them when I got off work but he had the day off and after he was done welding on his trailer he got bored, lol. He also did not grind out the pockets so I am going to do that tomorrow too. At least the majority of the work was done

He had good intentions.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:31 am

Did he torque them after the weight was on the ? Tires on the ground?
Just checking :wink:

Xodius · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:34 am

He does not torque anything. He believes he is superman and torquing is for the little guys. He is 6-2 and around 280 nearly all muscle...minus his crown and diet 7-up, lol.

JustinP · **Posted:** Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:50 pm

I don't think tom was asking if they were actually torqued to spec, more the position they were tightened. If you tighten them with the vehicle off the ground, that will lead to excessive and fast wear on the bushings. Always tighten/torque control arms at their natural resting place. Full weight on all four wheels.

ptsb5a · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:25 am

Please tell me that you backed the UCA bolts off a bit and actually torqued them. Overtightening a fastener is as dangerous as not aplying the proper torque. A stretched bolt will fail and over torquing may distort the surrounding structure. The guys with the 40lb heads and slide rules put torque specs there for a reason.

I've been fixing and flying for nearly 20 years. When something gets torqued, in aviation anyways, we call it a "critical juncture" (legal mumbo jumbo) and no less than two pairs of eyes verify both the setting on the torque wrench, the validity of the calibration of the torque wrench, and the torque applied to the fastener. :2cents:

waywardtravel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:27 pm

ptsb5a wrote:

Please tell me that you backed the UCA bolts off a bit and actually torqued them. Overtightening a fastener is as dangerous as not aplying the proper torque. A stretched bolt will fail and over torquing may distort the surrounding structure. The guys with the 40lb heads and slide rules put torque specs there for a reason.

I've been fixing and flying for nearly 20 years. When something gets torqued, in aviation anyways, we call it a "critical juncture" (legal mumbo jumbo) and no less than two pairs of eyes verify both the setting on the torque wrench, the validity of the calibration of the torque wrench, and the torque applied to the fastener. :2cents:

I know the aircraft industry uses more lightweight materials in more application but, do I understand that every time you use your torque wrench you check it's calibration? :shock:

With verification of two other eyes? If so how often are your calibration tools checked by I assume the FAA?
From standard fastener charts, Grade 5 fasteners (are overkill by proof 85,000psi ,tinsel 92,000psi ,and yield 120,000psi strength for the average application by design. The fastener can handle a pretty variable torque far exceeding the Chrysler spec. I have not yet removed that bolt but a standard 1/2in/13tpi Grade 5 Hex head machine screw with a torque of 75lb/ft has a clamping force of 9050lbs.

The REALLY REALLY IMPORTANT part when torque IS important is that if you lubricated that bolt for corrosion resistance with anti-seize, motor oil, wheel bearing grease, or whatever, the correct torque setting on your torque wrench would now be 55lb/ft for the same 9050lb clamping force. Otherwise you are big time over torque. It's built into the design that most people don't know this but it really doesn't make that much of a difference in suspension.

JustinP · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:04 pm

waywardtravel wrote:

I know the aircraft industry uses more lightweight materials in more application but, do I understand that every time you use your torque wrench you check it's calibration? :shock:

With verification of two other eyes? If so how often are your calibration tools checked by I assume the FAA?

I work in aviation at a repair station, and we are not allowed to have personal torque wrenches in the facility. We have a room that provides them for us and they are "bumped checked" after every use. If they bump check more than 10% off they must be sent in for calibration. I don't remember how long one calibration is good for, but once the time frame of the calibration is up, it requires an official calibration and a new sticker. the manufacturer does this for us. Also if the tool is dropped, it has to be taken out of use, and re checked. And when torquing in aviation, it's not uncommon to have two people check torque settings, and one to witness the torque. I'm required to have a member of quality assurance watch the torque, verify its accuracy against the manuals/prints, check calibration dates, and stamp my paperwork. Calibrated tools have different times that the calibration is good for. Terminal crimpers are usually only 3 months, multimeters are good for a year. I don't remember the torque wrench time frame.

I do feel it's unrealistic to believe that everything in automotive will get torqued, I wish it would/could, but there's not many shops and dealerships that are going to torque everything to spec. I really dont think I couldve torqued the UCA rear bolts on mine without pulling the starter off, possibly steering shaft etc. If we kept up with cars the way aircrafts are maintained, they would last nearly forever and be amazingly safe, however, none of us could afford to drive because of high maintenance costs. I'll torque all engine components and ultra sensitive things, but I'm not going to torque everything, neither is your local shop.
Sorry for getting off topic to the OP.

Xodius · **Posted:** Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:59 pm

Everything was torqued and put in place right. Now I just need to get a alignment...they sit a bit \---/ LOL, not much but you can see it just a bit. So Monday I will head in...or Tuesday. Think I have something planned on Monday night but I don't remember what atm.

JBA 4.5 question--reinforcement

Who is online