Today I ordered the euro OEM torque converter 68037142AA. With shipping it came out to $350.00. I have 115k on an 05 CRD and want it to last as long as possible. I keep hearing horror stories about the original TCs failing. I'm treating this as a PM replacement. Like how you replace the timing belt at 100K.

I will check my pressures before and after the converter change. A sample of the old fuild will be sent off for analysis. I will clean and inspect the valve bodies, internal wiring and pan. Replace the filters, fuild and any seals that are removed with the changing of the converter or internal transmission parts. I will also flush the trans cooler and lines out with new fuild.

Did I miss anything? Also does anyone have a list of part numbers for o-rings, seals and filters needed for this job? I will be doing the TC change the first weekend in March.

Loc-Tite on the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate.

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I was notified by the parts source for the converter that there is a new part number for the converter. 68037142AA is being replaced with RL037142AA. They also added a core charge so this leads me to believe it is also a reman unit. I cancelled the order and will start looking for a better "new" converter source. I do not use remanufactured torque converters! Any proven converters out there?

Sun Coast
No plastic parts and a heavier steel billet construction that smooths out the torque pulses of the CRD

_________________
Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Virtually any aftermarket TC you purchase will be a remanufactured unit including Mopar and Suncoast. They both take the stock TC, cut it apart and add the appropriate upgraded components, then weld back together.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Whats better about the suncost over the EU

_________________
2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

To explain why the Suncoast is smoother, the stock converter is flywheel mass deficient for a 4 cylinder engine. Suncoast uses a front billet cover that adds just enough flywheel mass to smooth out our 4 cylinder engines.
Since I installed the Suncoast, I have had to give my wife more back massages due to the reduced vibration. Tell that to Ron Wolverton of Suncoast, he just grins.
Suncoast only salvages the non wear parts like the rear cover when they build a converter. Other stuff that wears out or gets tired or fatigued goes into the respective scrap bins to be recycled.

Kinda like the difference between reman and blueprinting.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

The reason you feel the firing resonance (vibrations) being dampened with the Suncoast converter is that the increased mass is causing the engine to experience more load under acceleration and decceleration. It is also slightly decreasing the fuel efficiency. This increased load is caused by the higher kenetic energy transfer for the same change in rotational velocity. Better or new mounts can give the same dampening effect on vibrations being transmitted through the chassis.

This VM engine is a smaller version of the Detroit Diesel 50 series engine. The low mass flywheel (flexplate) design used with our Liberties has been used very successfully in the mass transit bus fleets for over a decade. The only fleet vehicle under a more distructive operating environment is a trash truck.

I'm not impressed with the Suncoast converter. I want a new converter as used by jeep in the current CRD's being produced and shipped overseas. I will pay the money for a new one when I find it. I don't like reman converter units due to material fatigue issues. I also don't want to increase the loading on my engine as does the suncoast converter. What is the mass of a Suncoast converter and an OEM converter? What is the fluid volume for each converter. The Suncoast may have a greater mass and stonger construction, but how efficient is it compared to the OEM?

I have a 2006 with 97k on it and still have the original TC. The only problem I have with it is when towing up a steep grade in low RPM the springs in the TC clutch would bottom out and cause the vibration. This tell me to reach to the shifter and press the OD button to take it out of overdrive. Once the engine is out of the low RPM high torque range everything is fine. The reason mine does it is because I added a performance chip to the fuel pressure sensor (fool chip to add more pressure and turbo boost).
If you have a 2006 built after November 2005 and have the latest flashes you don't need a new TC. Unless you want to add more performance like a chip or a tune. Then you can expect a rumble towing up a steep grade in overdrive, something you not supposed to do anyway with or without a tune.

Edit: Sorry I see you have a 2005. Did you have your since it was new. If not you should stop in to a dealer to check the records to see if it has been replaced.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

I'm the original owner. Had the torque converter recall done at 25k. Cleaned out the intake manifold and egr plumbing at 60k. Just had minor issues such as MAP sensor. I really enjoy this vehicle. Before every oil change I get a long straw about 14 inches long and spray brake cleaner through the MAP sensor port to try and keep my intake clean. I push the straw all the way to the other side of the intake, than slowly pull it out as I spray the brake cleaner into the intake. Not to much, just enough to coat the inside. I then put the sensor back in and start it up "outside". I let it run for about a minute, shut it down and spray again. I go through this cycle until I see a difference with my bore scope. It works quite well. If I see large chunks I use my shop vac with a boiler hose attachment and fish it up the intake flange opening. It can take a little time to do this but you will get a clean intake. Just be patience when using the brake cleaner, you don't want to create a hydraulic lock condition. I spent 25+ years in manufacturing and fleet maintenance for the Public and Private Mass Transit Industry. Learned alot the hard way! One warning after changing a blown turbo which sent extra engine oil into the CAC. Remove the CAC and clean it with Cascade dishwasher detergent. You rinse it out with water then blow it out with shop air. If not it may be filled with engine oil and will add extra fuel (engine oil) into the engine. It may cause the idle to race but mostly lots of black smoke which can be seen for miles

One big flaw in your argument against Suncoast is you are comparing 6 cylinder engines used in trucks and buses to a 4 cylinder engine in our CRDs. A 6 cylinder will run without a flywheel since the power pulses overlap. Good luck getting a 4 cylinder engine to run with out a flywheel. With 4 cylinder engines, light flywheels may give the sensation of more rapid acceleration, but at the expense of having more drive line vibration that tears up everything behind it. The only reason the OEMs don't use the billet front covers is to cut costs and make the Bean Counters happy.
The big boys that put tens of thousands of dollars into their Diesel Pickup trucks don't agree with your assessment of Suncoast and others that produce performance converters.
You want stock, stick with it, the Euro is what stock should have been from day one, VM told Chrysler to use larger dampener springs. If you want more, stock is too weak to hold up.

As far as the VM 2.8L being a mini version of the 50 series, give us a break. True some of the wisdom learned by Detroit Diesel may have been passed on to VM when Penske was a major holder of both companies, but that is where the commonalities end. Last I checked the 50 series had a cast iron head and not aluminum head. Unit injectors vs common rail, on and on.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Google detroit diesel 50 series engine "not 60 series" and you will find it to be an inline 4. I know because I have worked on them and did some design work for the SEPTA application used in the NABI buses. Both use the garrett vnt turbo and a water cooled egr valve. The injection system was not the Common Rail design which is in your liberty. For the 50 series a DDEC electronic injector and management system was used. The CRD system used in our VM engines is made by Bosch and the same design is now used on the Cummins inline 6 cylinder engines that have been replacing the detroits in the bus fleets. Nothing wrong with the detroits but they costs about $21k to overhall while a new cummins can be gotten for about $18k with a new warranty. Get an engine manual on the 50 series and you will understand my post.

And when did I ever state the VM was an exact reduced in size copy of a 50 series DD engine or that the liberty CRD was running without a flywheel? Smaller version does not mean mini copy. And low mass flywheel does not mean "No Flywheel"! The 50 series uses a single overhead cam which makes it taller. Our VM engine is shortened in hight by using a dual over head cam. They both use counter balancing shaft assemblies to smooth out the "power pulses" or "firing resonance" whatever term you want to use! Plus I never compared 6 cylinder to 4 cylinder engines. Do you have a stake in Suncoast! I just stated I'm not impressed with the Suncoast converter. I trust the P.E. Engineers I have worked with before I would trust a vender trying to sell me a product. Just look at the overall designs of these two engines and you will see what I am trying to show.

Two things our VM engines don't have in common with DD are.
One, DD engines burn more than their share of engine oil compared to Cat or Cummins, an old DD problem.
A brochure of a VM engine does not leak oil.
I can point out that PEs are only human and in my line of work I have to diplomatically explain to them the Laws of Physics and how they apply to the application. The smart ones listen and the pig heads don't.
Do you have any documentation to show that Suncoast and other performance companies do not consult PEs who know what they are doing? Suncoast has a lot customers and companies who are or have very competent engineers (some with a PE) who have Suncoast develop transmission components. PE does not mean anything if the individual does not have the art to do the fine tuning and development in their being. Those of us that know the difference between good Engineering and Bean Counter Engineering reject Bean Counter Engineering such as light flywheel mass and cheap Bean Counter Engineering moves like Dual Mass Flywheels and light mass torque converters that only cut costs along with performance. Those of us who have extensive experience with proper rebuilding or re-manufacturing, reject the virgin only attitude on components, it is the quality that counts. How many race car engines are virgins? Very very few, most racers want an engine that has been stress relieved by being used, not some block that was bored out when the cast iron cooled down enough so the cutting fluid does not catch on fire. Of course with your vast office of PEs, you could ave them investigate and specify cryogenic stress relieving so you could have your virgin race car engine that will compete with the seasoned blue printed engines most racers use. If you wanted a virgin Suncoast converter, I am sure they could round up all the parts from Sonnax and build one, but all you want is virgin OEM Mopar stock and are trying to justify it and slam any other options.
Are you going to condemn all of the racing development that came from Shine Runners who later became NASCAR drivers and pit crews, just because not all of them had PE after their name?

Are you going to condemn MicroSoft because Bill Gates did not have a PE when he coordinated the putting together of DOS used on early PCs?

HAVE A NICE DAY

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Wow what a rant! You have no clue about detroits. I like CAT's, Cummins, Detriots, Volvo's and most others. I'm not here to argue with you and I don't agrue with idoits or vendors. So which are you? I never stated I didn't like or dislike Suncoast. Just not impressed with their converter. You must believe that a square peg fits into a round hole. "You" just use a bigger hammer

Mac OS has always been better then DOS anyway. And this post is coming to you from a MacBook

GoodCRD: You rip Suncoast, re manufactured components, and you rip DOS. Your insults are a desperate move to divert attention from the lack of any substance with your argument. Very typical of a political attack add that most see through and respond accordingly. Sorry if myself and my fellow Suncoast owners don't fall for the psychology perfected by Dr. Paul Joseph Goebbels.

Any way.

I, hope your are very very happy with your VIRGIN Stock Mopar Torque Converter, what ever it costs you.

To each his own in this Great Country.

Just remember, once you install it, it is no longer a VIRGIN Stock Mopar Torque Converter.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

What amount of weight difference are we arguing about here?

These trucks seem to have driveline vibration issues (not all) and a slight loss in fuel performance is nothing to give up if you are saving in wear and tear.

A bigger concern may be the phenolic stator anyway. Just this morning my wife has announced that our 3 year old water heater (the counter type) has to be thrown out because I was stupid enough to tell her that the white floaters she is finding is the plastic vent hole breaking down from the heat. All stainless construction for me this time. Okay, I know there is a difference between a torque converter and a hot water dispenser but I thought the story was amusing anyway.

It got off topic when WARPED's ego got involved. He took offense to me not being impressed with Suncoast's patch job of a converter. The converter issue was not caused by mass or overall construction. The issue was "shuddering". The root cause was the springs were not stronge enough to hold with the forces being applied. Sort of like someone riding the clutch too much and burning out the cutch in a manual trans. All that burnt material had to go somewhere so it circulated through the trans and damaged stuff. And Suncoast charging more than double what mopar is charging for the corrected converter is just plain stupid. I guess his ego just keeps getting in the way. Then he started to throw me under the bus and discredit me. He didn't have a clue that the 50 series detroit was a 4 cylinder with balancing shafts that smooth out the vibrations due to the firing sequence and other rotating forces. He never acknowledges that he is just not correct, he bullies his way through like a child. I hope he doesn't beat his dog over this post, or worse another person.

For all who want to buy replacement turbos, injectors, fuel pumps at a fair price check out buyautoparts.com.

I remember this from before. Didn't Suncoast already address this?


Cost is a definite consideration.

Also, after thinking about my last post, one could probably be happy with the lighter phenolic stator knowing that it is not needed to last a lifetime considering you need to rebuild (or replace) the torque converter for clutch wear anyway.