Blown Turbo conditions

flman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2011 4:40 pm

Just wondering for the people that have been the first to have blown turbos.
What kind of oil are you using?
What is your oil change interval?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

It would also be interesting to know a general location, altitude, and average humidity? These can all influence turbo life to some extent. The maintenance practices for air filter replacement and where the oil level was kept on the dipstick could provide good info. as well. The conditions when the failure occurred (cold/hot engine, light/heavy load, strange noise, etc.)

GoodCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:00 pm

I have dealt with the Garrett VNT turbos in the 50 series detroits. Before ULSD the variable vanes would seize due to carbon buildup. This happened around 125K. The other problem of becoming unbalanced started to occur more often after the egr valves were added on later models. Creep wasn't much of an issue on the later models as it was with the early ones. The greatest cause of failure before 50K was foreign objects hitting the blades, not good. I don't like the CCV gases coming into the turbo. I have found the 0w-30 mobil oil to pass through the CCV and oil everything up, but not as bad with the Rottela 5w-40 oil. I also noticed that with a dirty air filter you get more oil to pass through the CCV.

I like the cummins turbo much better. On the ISL engine they don't have the issues of the Garretts.

Check out buyautoparts.com to find some fair pricing on the Garrett turbo used in our CRDs.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:09 pm

I suspect most of the folks with blown turbos are no longer active on LOST

flman · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:35 am

GoodCRD wrote:

I have dealt with the Garrett VNT turbos in the 50 series detroits. Before ULSD the variable vanes would seize due to carbon buildup. This happened around 125K. The other problem of becoming unbalanced started to occur more often after the egr valves were added on later models. Creep wasn't much of an issue on the later models as it was with the early ones. The greatest cause of failure before 50K was foreign objects hitting the blades, not good. I don't like the CCV gases coming into the turbo. I have found the 0w-30 mobil oil to pass through the CCV and oil everything up, but not as bad with the Rottela 5w-40 oil. I also noticed that with a dirty air filter you get more oil to pass through the CCV.

I like the cummins turbo much better. On the ISL engine they don't have the issues of the Garretts.

Check out buyautoparts.com to find some fair pricing on the Garrett turbo used in our CRDs.

That sounds good, the more variables the better.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:37 am

ATXKJ wrote:

I suspect most of the folks with blown turbos are no longer active on LOST

True but, if they blow one or are lurking they might see this thread in a search.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 3:05 pm

I don't think that many CRD owners had a turbo failure... I only remember 2 or 3 posting on here ever.

Patrick Henry · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:17 am

The turbo on my 2005 crd went at about 80k miles. Didn't explode, just shucked its bearing and oil seals. Happened during acceleration from a stoplight, engine at normal operating temperature, mild spring day in the 80's. The only precursor to the event I recall was a noticeable increase in whistle noise as the turbo spooled up.

I've always used diesel rated syn, early on the 0W-40W, then 5-40W after the 2nd oil change. Never more than 10k miles between oil changes. I've run the Provent since day one, having experienced intake maniford cleanings on our other car, a TDI. Also kept air filters changed often as high dp influences the amount of oil introduced from the CCW.

Other operating conditions: low humidity, high elevation (5400 ft)

When I check at the dealership for the availability of a turbo and what to do they had another CRD in the shop for the same thing.

One other tidbit, when I cleaned and flushed the intercooler I only got a very small amount of oil out, maybe an ounce or two.

flman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:43 am

Patrick Henry wrote:

I've always used diesel rated syn, early on the 0W-40W, then 5-40W after the 2nd oil change. Never more than 10k miles between oil changes. I've run the Provent since day one, having experienced intake maniford cleanings on our other car, a TDI. Also kept air filters changed often as high dp influences the amount of oil introduced from the CCW.

What brand oil?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:46 am

I had an issue with my turbo vanes sticking and throwing code P0234.

GDE suggested I continually try to move them free using a vacuum pump (http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25136-Vacuum- ... =1-3-spell) connected to the vacuum port on the turbo to free the vanes and then drive it hard for a while going up a steep hill to free the vanes loose from the gunk that had built up around them. It worked, the light went off.

I read on another diesel board that if we baby our turbo it dies a quick death, every once in a while we need to blow the crud out so the vanes don’t stick.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:46 pm

flman: perhaps you might add that only those who have actually seen the blown turbos with their own eyes should add their experience to this thread, or at least qualify the posting thusly. There are an incredible number of turbos which get replaced by hack mechanics at various shops because of things like torn CAC hoses etc. How many stories have we heard like "the mechanic knew my turbo was bad because there was oil coating the intake hose", or "it started making black smoke so the tech knew the turbo had blown". Inter-coolers get replaced for the same reasons sometimes.

Patrick Henry · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2011 4:26 pm

Quote:

What brand oil?

Mostly Mobil1, one interval Valvoline 5-40W SynPower. Frankly, I don't put much stock in "brand" differences as much as I would meeting the diesel specifications.

And for Nurse:

In my case the impeller assembly was intact but laid loose in the turbo housing. I could take my fingers and grab the impeller and move it almost completely unrestrained in any direction.

I certainly would not encourage someone who thinks their turbo is blown to dismiss symptoms like "making excessive smoke" and not check it out. If one could detect the turbo bearing and oil seals in the degradation phase, it be alot cheaper replacing the turbo then and not waiting until it went catastrophic. The only realistic preventive maintenance check I can think of doing is to periodically check the turbo impeller for axial play, and be alert to any sudden change in turbine whistle.

I don't know what the total count of turbo failures are for the CRDs say to comparison to the Volkswagen TDIs, but it would be interesting to see if there was any data in the industry on it.

ac5501 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:26 pm

I'm now working on my third turbo. First was replaced under warranty, Second was just replaced by me about a month ago

Driving conditions have been the same for both units.

90%hwy driving at 65-70 mph 110 miles a day 20 days each month. First turbo went at about 65k second one gave out at 118k. 1-2 minute cool down

First turbo: Dealer said was leaking oil. No CEL's and no noticable preformance drop, but since it was covered under warranty, I did not question it.

HOWEVER......

When the second turbo went (bearings gave out lots of metal grinding noise), we noticed that one of the turbo mount bolts was broken off (not sure if it ever was installed by the dealer), and the bracket that mounts from the bottom of the turbo was not attached to the engine block!! The old(second turbo) did not look or smell burnt, so I wonder if it's short life was related to improper installation.

Dealer will not fess up to the mistake, but I was there the entire time the turbo was taken out, and NOBODY has worked on that car (in that area) other then the dealer so I KNOW IT WAS NOT INSTALLED CORRECTLY.

I am looking into a turbo timer and when this one goes i'll consider the GDE turbo. I could not afford it this time around

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The lack of proper turbo support mounting is what killed the second turbo. Excessive vibration will hammer through bearings in short order. Make sure not to recommend that dealer to anybody, especially if they do not stand behind their work.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

How much have the replacement turbo's ran you? I don't like spending my money on stuff that doesn't need to be replaced but I would also rather replace it before something catastrophic occurs! When these turbo's go, how would they go and would they take other stuff out with them?
The last I checked my turbo shaft had a little play but it wasn't much, being the way I am (paranoid about stuff like this) I am wanting someone else opinion on its condition! Maybe I will ask Keith if he will look at it if I bring it up to see him! I want the GDE turbo also but I would need to put it on layaway !

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:20 am

have you priced an OEM turbo? its all most $1600 a moparonlineparts.com GDE's in not that much more just a few hundred more.

I never had a turbo failure and hope not to. I dont baby mine 100% of the time I chage up on ramps to get up to speed as fast as I can when I can, I try to blow the junk out of the turbo a few times a week. I never shut off the engine right after running over 35 mph right before stopping.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

mikey1273 wrote:

have you priced an OEM turbo? its all most $1600 a moparonlineparts.com GDE's in not that much more just a few hundred more.

I never had a turbo failure and hope not to. I dont baby mine 100% of the time I chage up on ramps to get up to speed as fast as I can when I can, I try to blow the junk out of the turbo a few times a week. I never shut off the engine right after running over 35 mph right before stopping.

Yeah I don't want to replace it trust me. We don't shut ours down without 60 sec of idle after stopped. I doubt my girlfriend cleans it out much but I try to when I get in it!

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:17 pm

Painemann i suggest you check the movement of the vanes by putting a vacuum pump on the turbo actuator and see if actuator rod moves freely, if it doesn't there is a way to free it again.

Try freeing the vanes by putting the pedal to the metal while going up a steep hill, do it several times and it should start to clean itself. Keep doing it until the vanes move freely.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

racertracer wrote:

Painemann i suggest you check the movement of the vanes by putting a vacuum pump on the turbo actuator and see if actuator rod moves freely, if it doesn't there is a way to free it again.

Try freeing the vanes by putting the pedal to the metal while going up a steep hill, do it several times and it should start to clean itself. Keep doing it until the vanes move freely.

I will check the vanes with a pump, but I am not having any issues as of now (knock on wood), just being paranoid!

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:09 am

I worry about cooling it down myself but I have a habbit that isn't too bad. If I am headed home the last few blocks before my neighborhood are 35mph city streets and sometimes you can't even go that fast. Then its a turn into an ally that I mostly coast down to my driveway behind my place. then I get my phone and stuff to take in togther after I park and turn it off as I am opening the door to exit the Jeep. Because I am mostly at idle I include the coasting time in the cool down. other times I am waiting about 30 sec. to a minute when not driving fast or under load.

Looking at GDE's price for the turbo kit its $2100 and he says $300 back if you are a current customer. SO I understand that to mean that since I bought a tune already that means those if us that have a tune like me get it for $1800. If Thats so thats not much more. I remember seeing the OEM turbo for less than $1000 about a year ago. if Chrysler keeps raising the price GDE will be a far better deal.

Blown Turbo conditions

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