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 Post subject: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 11:27 am 
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2 inch conduit lock nuts? Would these be my clevis lift?

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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202241105&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=202241105&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D27X-_-202241105&locStoreNum=6866

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:01 pm 
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That's what I used, not sure if Home Depot only sells them in 50 or not, but Lowes sells them in packs of 2 i believe if you don't want to buy so many

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:12 pm 
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You can also just use a vernier caliper to space the clevis.
The conduit nut are not really necessary.


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:56 pm 
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RyN7, so your saying lossen it, measure out some space and tighten it back down?

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OME 926/948 w/ OME Shocks, 3/8 Boiler, 1" LTT, a bit of Clevis lift
MOPAR Skids, Custom trans skid
Valley Roof Basket with Extension (when required), Homemade fence post crossbars with Thule system to compliment
Mastercraft A\T Something or another...


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:00 pm 
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Yes.

I ran like that for over a year and the shocks do not sag back or anything.

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:18 pm 
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i understand how the front is lifted more with these conduits, but how is rear compensated? something about isolators but i have no idea what those are... :banghead:

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:21 pm 
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Not putting spacers in is a bad Idea, I tried that.... It Slipped. For the 1$ a piece you may as well buy them. You are going to end up level with the rear, only add a extra Rear Iso if you want to get a slight Rake (Nose down effect)


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 9:00 pm 
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Well, sure sounds easier then taking the clevis all the way off (tho I suppose I may need to anyway)

Is there a drawback to having something there holding the space?

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06 KJ Sport - PA - ONSFARI

OME 926/948 w/ OME Shocks, 3/8 Boiler, 1" LTT, a bit of Clevis lift
MOPAR Skids, Custom trans skid
Valley Roof Basket with Extension (when required), Homemade fence post crossbars with Thule system to compliment
Mastercraft A\T Something or another...


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:04 am 
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RED_KJ_666 wrote:
Not putting spacers in is a bad Idea, I tried that.... It Slipped. For the 1$ a piece you may as well buy them. You are going to end up level with the rear, only add a extra Rear Iso if you want to get a slight Rake (Nose down effect)



I think thats for gassers, with my CRD it sits perfectly level now, but im also not at the highest i could be with a CRD. i think i can go about an inch higher(mine settled after some twisties and about 1500 miles) and was wondering if i could do the clevis in front, and something in the back to bring it up some more.

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Frankenlift, JBA 1/4 top plate, 3 clevis rings, 3 stacked iso's
JBA UCA and quick disconnects
Procomp rockkrawlr 16x8 4.25bs with 265-70-65 General Grabber AT2's
Mopar full skid plates, JCR stage 3 Rock Rails
Kenwood HU, 6.5 pioneer marine grade door speakers, JL stealthbox kenwood amp
GDE HOT tune
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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:06 pm 
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Gosh...this site is getting slower by the day...

Anyway, rear upper isolators are the OEM rubber doughnuts on top of the rear springs. You can add 2 per side, so 3 in total (if needed).

On the front you can do a clevis lift and top plates (the shims you can put on top of the coilover).

Does that help?

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:31 pm 
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Okay thanks a lot for clearing that up. How much does an extra isolator in the rear bring it up? from what i read, the clevis is 3/8, but doubles it and brings it up 6/8. is the same true for the rear? im looking for a level ride since i rarely tow.

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06 CRD limited
Frankenlift, JBA 1/4 top plate, 3 clevis rings, 3 stacked iso's
JBA UCA and quick disconnects
Procomp rockkrawlr 16x8 4.25bs with 265-70-65 General Grabber AT2's
Mopar full skid plates, JCR stage 3 Rock Rails
Kenwood HU, 6.5 pioneer marine grade door speakers, JL stealthbox kenwood amp
GDE HOT tune
Soon to come
RL Rock monitor bumper


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:58 pm 
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I think the rear lifts as you space it. I am even all around and am putting 1 inch LTT spacer and 3\8 boiler + 2 or so conduit nuts to keep me level.

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Mike Smith
06 KJ Sport - PA - ONSFARI

OME 926/948 w/ OME Shocks, 3/8 Boiler, 1" LTT, a bit of Clevis lift
MOPAR Skids, Custom trans skid
Valley Roof Basket with Extension (when required), Homemade fence post crossbars with Thule system to compliment
Mastercraft A\T Something or another...


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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:05 pm 
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from what I've been told for every isolator you gain half an inch in the back.

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 Post subject: Re: Conduit Nuts
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:28 am 
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bunkermonkeycw wrote:
RyN7, so your saying lossen it, measure out some space and tighten it back down?


Yes.

RED_KJ_666 wrote:
Not putting spacers in is a bad Idea, I tried that.... It Slipped. For the 1$ a piece you may as well buy them. You are going to end up level with the rear, only add a extra Rear Iso if you want to get a slight Rake (Nose down effect)


It slipped?
Then you didn't tighten the clevis enough.


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