Jeep died at intersection

AZScout · **Posted:** Sat May 21, 2011 7:18 pm

Hi guys,

I was wondering if this has happened to anyone before? I was turning out of my neighborhood when I lose all power. I pulled to the center aisle in between the two sides of traffic and tried to start it but got no cranking. All the lights are working and the radio is fine. Car started up fine when I left my house two neighborhood blocks ago. Turned it off and waited and tried to start but same thing, all the lights on the dash come on, I turn the key and nothing. Towed it to a dealership and they said I will have to wait for Monday for diagnostics. It has 97k miles on it. Any help would be appreciated.

Bummed

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sat May 21, 2011 8:33 pm

Might be the ignition switch or wiring/fuses to and from it.

dkenny · **Posted:** Sat May 21, 2011 8:53 pm

when was the battery replaced?

if you an optimia battery check the voltage anything under 12.5 isn't good.

-dkenny

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 21, 2011 9:11 pm

x2 on the battery.

The ignition switch on our CRDs doesn't directly close anything like a relay to the starter, it ONLY sends an "I want to start now" command to the computer, which then has to go through a whole list of checks before the COMPUTER issues the power to the starter.

If your battery is dead, it might still be capable of putting out enough voltage to start the computer and the dashboard lights, but not anywhere near enough amperage to run the starter. When the computer tries to send power to the starter, the amperage and voltage drop to zero instantly, and the computer shuts off - No crank.

Stalling 2 blocks after starting out is entirely possible if you haven't replaced the battery, b/c the alternator DOES have the power to keep the engine running by itself for a short time, but not with the changing power levels that come from accelerating and decelerating. The battery is needed to act as a "moderator" smoothing out that power. About all you can do without a battery (and the engine running on alternator power only) is idle.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Its probably sitting outside at the stealership, if so get a second car and some jumper cables. For diesels, after cables are hooked up, I usually start the "donor" car with the good battery and rev it to 2500-3000 rpm for several minutes before and during the start. If your CRD starts run to a Costco and get a replacement battery (its 70 bucks or so) and get you wallet away from the dealership. Once you arrive at your house, check the alternator by revving the CRD at 2000 rpm and measure the voltage at the battery...it should be over 13.5 volts and preferably around 14.4 volts. If not, you'll need a new alternator which hope you can replace yourself.

My dealership charges 100 bucks just to pull a diagnostic code and/or diagnose the issue. For that kind of money, you could get a new battery and go from there.

Good luck!

PS Its a 6 year old car, if you decide you want to trade it in for a new one, would you be willing to swap your CP3 with mine? :lol:

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 21, 2011 11:02 pm

Pfft. Save the trouble of the jumper cables, just bring a battery from Costco. If it starts and drives away, you've found the problem and it will cost a LOT less than the stealer will charge, WITHOUT the risk of them screwing it up and throwing expensive parts at the problem while guessing.

Remember, when a stealership hears hoofbeats, they instantly think zebra-striped unicorns, instead of horse. They will ALWAYS look to replace the most expensive part first, never thinking that the $20 sensor is the cause or the first thing to try. (Not saying you have a sensor glitch here, just an example)

Get your CRD away from that dealer before they break it more!

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Costco Group 34 battery cost me 69 dollars earlier this year.

If you don't have a costco membership any group 34 battery should be fine. You do not have to use the Optima battery. Advance auto would not install a non-optima battery because the one I selected was not their computer showed was approved for the vehicle. So, bring a 10mm socket wrench with a long extension to remove the battery hold down and a 10mm open end or closed end wrench to loosen the battery terminals.

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

Drewd wrote:

Once you arrive at your house, check the alternator by revving the CRD at 2000 rpm and measure the voltage at the battery...it should be over 13 volts and preferably at 13.5-13.8 volts. If not, you'll need a new alternator which hope you can replace yourself.

I have the new gen Tekonsha trailer brakes with the built in volt meter- it is pretty consistently 14.38- 14.41 Volts. :2cents:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun May 22, 2011 11:26 am

I'd be a bit careful getting just any Group 34 battery. That's the correct size but you need to match or exceed the cranking specs, particularly the CCA, of the Optima to have a battery that will work year round on the CRD. Not hard to do for a reasonable price but IMHO stay away from cheaper group 34 batteries with a low CCA rating. In addition you need to pay attention to whether or not the existing battery cables will reach the posts. As I recall ideally that means a Group 34R battery with reversed +/- posts. A regular Group 34 will usually work if you mount it backwards (+ post toward driver's fender). There is plenty of play in the + cable but the - cable is a rather tight fit on a reversed battery and may not work in all cases.

PS many if not most places simply look in the "book" and will tell you only the OEM battery will do or that the CRD is not listed so they don't have or won't mount a battery. That's a joke at best and a l.. at worst. If it's Group 34, good CCA, and cables fit it will work.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

[/quote]

I have the new gen Tekonsha trailer brakes with the built in volt meter- it is pretty consistently 14.38- 14.41 Volts. :2cents:

[/quote]

That's good to know. I revised my post.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Sun May 22, 2011 12:58 pm

My engine died while driving along a street. Turned out to be the ASD (auto shut down) fuse blown. A code reader would tell because it throws about a half dozen fault codes.

Billwill · **Posted:** Sun May 22, 2011 1:36 pm

TJ2 wrote:

My engine died while driving along a street. Turned out to be the ASD (auto shut down) fuse blown. A code reader would tell because it throws about a half dozen fault codes.

Just yesterday my 2002 CRD would not start in the morning...would turn over but would not fire....SKIM light came on after initial light test as it should but then stayed on. Fortunately I have the wiring diagrams for the 2002 models and have already diagnosed about five wiring problems before now....no CEL came on and I could not pull any codes as I usually do with the ignition on/off trick that works for early KJ models.

I traced it to a broken wire somewhere in the harness that was the wire leading to the coil of the ASD relay so the relay could not energize! I believe all the wiring problems I have had have been caused by a frontal accident that probably damaged the main wire harnesss somewhere...fortunately this failed at home and not out on the road.

I do believe that the problem that the OP is having with his Jeep is probably a dead battery.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

Hey, OP! How about some feedback on your vehicle. What was the ultimate resolution to your problem?

Jeep died at intersection

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