Has anyone found a metal alternative to the plastic fuel rail on the Jeep Liberty CRD? I replaced mine after slipping while fixing something else. It's hard to believe the cost of a thin, crappy piece of plastic. Beauty was when replacing the rail the line connecting to it was brittle and broke, too. I had to wait a week until the rail came in so I used a "Farm Fix" to hold the line...kinda like J.B. Weld. While thinking of this alternative I thought of a name for my CRD since when something breaks I upgrade it or try to find a better alternative. How does "Bullet Proof Kennedy" sound? If you found a Mercedes Common Rail that fits or made a new one please send links or instructions on how to make it.

Thanks!

What do you mean by having a plastic fuel rail? Do you mean the rail that has the high pressure diesel coming in from the main pump, has a fuel pressure sensor sticking out of it and then has four pipes carrying the high pressure diesel to the four injectors? This what I call a fuel rail and my 2002 CRD has a solid aluminium alloy casting for this purpose..not plastic!
Or are you referring to the actual fuel piping coming from the fuel tank to the fuel filter?

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

I assume he means the return lines off the injectors.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

High pressure lines.

Are you sure? The rail is the cast aluminum piece (about an inch in diameter) with hard steel lines connecting to the side of the injectors. These are metal pieces because the rail reachs pressures of 28,000 PSI.

The plastic tubing that comes off the top of the injectors are the return-to-tank lines. They join up with the rail pressure solenoid return at a plastic junction bolted to the side of the head, then head back to the tank. This is all relatively low pressure and plastic does the job just fine, IMO. It's certianly easier to break (of course, as you have found) so I could understand wanting to replace them from that standpoint.

I remember seeing a post from someone that broke the plastic junction and replaced it with something homemade of brass fittings, etc. If you can find the post, that would be a good place to start.

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- Tom

2005 KJ CRD
GDE Eco tune | Ram/Cummins lift pump | Samco IC hoses
OME lift | Treadwright Warden 265/75R16 | front & rear hitches | Mopar skids
Uniden Pro 520XL | GlowShift boost gauge| WeatherTech mats | some other funny business

The return lines on the top of the injectors are plastic going to a ~1mm hose.
Buy a small lathe and the tooling, you can make them out of what ever you want. If money is no object, 316S Stainless Steel would be the best.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

It’s a whole coincidence Steven! As you know I have just bought a Logan metal lathe! I still have to convert it to works on 115V / 230V with a good electric engine like a Baldor L3601 or a US motor AF72. It’s not easy to find a good quality 1 to 1.5 Hp electric engine with a 182 frame for dirt cheap!

I feel I’m gone have fun with my new toy which his no more expensive than a good quality golf set, loosing time on a green or have fun doing stuff others need but have to pay to get done Its a personal choice. But reading post like this one make me feel pretty good about my purchase!

Now the real questions are…

1:How much cost this OEM parts?

2:How much are you ready to pay for a SS replacement of this part?

Catching! LMAO

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2005 CRD Ltd/Tru-Cool 4454 LPD
/Filter bleeder CRDBV/Fumoto F102/ProVent 200/Euro TC
/Hayden HY2905 Viscous clutch with OEM 52079654AE fan mod
Samco/OME/Bilstein/JBA4.5/Mattech BTA Machined trans valve body
/BF rugged terrain 245/75/16 on MOAB

You guys are like Alldata on steroids! Love it! I'll make sure to get the name right next time. I saw this in AllDataDIY.com "CAUTION: High pressure lines can not contact each other or other components. Do not attempt to repair or weld high pressure fuel lines that are damaged. If lines are kinked or bent, they MUST be replaced. Use only recommended lines when replacement of high pressure fuel line is necessary.

Guess I'll stick with OEM

Thanks for all the information!

The broken plastic parts are low pressure. Modify all you like.
Just not JB Weld and brake line. Let's see some creativity here.

I normally fix broken plastic parts by "welding" the joints together by melting the edges with a soldering iron and re-inforcing the join with more molten plastic of the same type. You can also reinforce the join with pieces of steel melted into the joint.
This works provided it is the type of plastic that melts, ie. not a "thermoset" type, and the plastic must not be overheated.
The finished product can be sanded to a smooth finish.
Or buy new parts.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport