Boost Hoses

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

Hi again,

I'm the one who posted 2 days ago about my new CRD I just bought. I did a sweet 350 mile drive from place of purchase to home without a hitch. Then it sat in driveway for 2 days. I can't drive here until it passes an out of province inspection since I bought it in Alberta but live in BC.

Anyways, today I take it to mechanical for certified inspection. It passed all except a $200 ding for new front rotors since they were too thin to pass inspection. At end of day I get back in Jeep and start it and CEL it on. I drive home and the thing lacks power and coughs/hiccups. Loss of power, accelerate, loss pf power. And this strange hissing sound from the front... Lovely.

Armed with knowledge from this forum, I figured it could be 2 things. Either the fuel pump clogged or the boost hoses. I promptly removed the hoses and found a 1.5" long split on top of the hose located on right of engine when you look at engine from front of vehicle. I think I found the problem! A few questions for the experts:

1. Would a clogged fuel filter also trigger a CEL?
2. Has anyone ever found boost hoses (OEM or Salco) at their local NAPA store or other or are these strictly special order items from Mopar or other? I need to use Jeep as of Thursday morning and wondering if possible to find parts at local Jeep dealer or other. What are people's experience with this?
3. Once I replace the hoses, will the CEL go off or will I need to go to garage to reset?

Thanks for the help!

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:06 am

1.) Yes, but does it really matter.
2.) These are special order from Mopar/DCM/Fiat or SAMCO.
3.) It will cycle off or you can get a cheap code reader and clear it out.

Good luck,
Boilermaker2

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:16 am

1. yes but it's more likely code relates to low boost due the the hose split. However, if you don't know when the filter was last changed I'd recommend changing it now as a routine matter. While you are at it and before you buy a new filter see if you have the 1st gen OEM filter head that's prone to leaking fuel/air at the electical plug for the fuel heater. It's an easy check. The 1st gen head has 2 electrical plugs on the head; if the one on the driver's side is smaller than the other one you have a 1st gen head. The 2nd gen head also has the 2 plugs but they are both the same size and on the ones I've seen the heater plug is a bright blue and of course there is an obvious splice for the new heater harness pigtail. If you wind up ordering a 2 gen head (Fuel/water separator assembly 68043089AA and Wire harness kit 68043086AA) it will come with a new filter and water sensor installed (save your old water sensor just in case). Otherwise a good after market parts store should have or can get a new filter (WIX 33647 or equivalent)
2. I perfer Samcos which can be obtained from http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=328 . These folks do ship to Canada but the order has to be called in. Don't know how fast they can get hoses to you but if you need to drive the CRD on tomorrow (Thursday) you might be able to make a temporary patch with self sealing silicone tape. Of course it's possible that a Jeep dealer could get a replacement overnight, doubt they would be in stock, and I understand the new OEM boost hoses are much better than the originals.
3. Should clear itself after a dozen or so engine start/stop cycles. A code reader that reliably works on the CRD is somewhat hard to find given the multiple "languages" of the CRD's software. That said check around on the forum and you may find a cheap one that will do. Here in the state's AutoZone and others will read codes for free and if you sweet talk them correctly might agree to clear a code. The dealer's are reported to be charging like $100 US to do the same which at 5 minutes to do the job works out to a clear case of highway robbery.

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

Quick question. Perhaps I could try and use a bicycle tube patch with solvent glue to try and repair temporarily? I am getting desperate.

My question is: The boost hose that is on the right side of engine when looking at it from front (ie the bigger one of the 2). Is it under positive or negative pressure during operation? I am assuming positive but just want to check. Thanks

Squeeto · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:29 pm

chillmobil wrote:

..use a bicycle tube patch with solvent glue to try and repair temporarily? I am getting desperate.

Hey Canuck, use duct tape :mrgreen:

Actually these hoses get pretty saturated with oil for a patch to adhere well to.
Clean the hose and try duct tape, muffler tape, wide rubber tape, whatever at least 6 inch either side of the break.

Temporary fix.

Buy the dealer hoses if you don't want to wait for the Samco's; they now have a silicone liner and will be fine.

Where in BC? We have a few here on the forum.

Edit: also, there is a European distributor for Samco hoses as well. Since you need to import from another country anyway, these may end up being cheaper.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:49 pm

X2 on tape. Way too much oil for any glue to work at the split although the drivers side hose tends to be less oil soaked. Both hoses are under positive pressure from the turbo routed thru the intercooler to cool the air flow. You might try a bit of metal, like from an aluminum can, over the split and partially around the hose under the tape to provide a bit more support to the split area. IMHO more tape is better than less as long as you have clearance from other engine components.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:01 pm

I was too cheap to justify SAMCO's. 60k miles and the OEM replacement is still holding up. They're not the same as the one's you bought on the Jeep.
Boilermaker2

BTW: I tried the aforementioned temp fix others are espousing and it held for about 15 minutes...

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:49 pm

Clean off the oil with Automotive Brake Cleaner (I have bought it in Canada before), dry the hose well, and use Gorilla Tape, it is much stronger. Several members used this temp fix to get by until the new hoses showed up.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:08 pm

after patching perhaps wrap the hose with wire to reinforce it, don't think anyone has tried that yet, might be worth a try

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:04 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Clean off the oil with Automotive Brake Cleaner (I have bought it in Canada before), dry the hose well, and use Gorilla Tape, it is much stronger. Several members used this temp fix to get by until the new hoses showed up.

Gorilla tape is the ticket for sure. I used it for a use other than the jeep and that stuff is so tuff and sticks good too. not sure about how well with oil but if you clean it off the tape should work. I keep some of that tape in my jeep on long trips just in case a hose bursts and I'm miles from home or a stealership.

I would try wraping a soda can around the split to re-enforce it then tape it with gorilla tape untill you can get OEM or Samco.

Boost controller sells the set cheaper than I can get both from my local dealer. I checked since I want to replace mine before they fail. I'm at 62k miles on what is likely the originals. not sure how pricing is in Canada for Samco.

at the dealer you can order just the hose you need vs. Samco is sold both as a set only.

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

Thanks everyone. In the end, I called my friend who agreed to "lend" me his Boos Hose on his similar 2006 CRD (he is the reason why I bought my Jeep). Meanwhile, he is borrowing my old clunker car and I am having brand new Samco hoses shipped FedEX overnight to his house so he can use that while I am away. (FedEx is dinging me $104 US for that service, which is about $90 CDN right now.. haha! :lol:

)

So we're playing musical chairs with our Boost Hoses for now.

New problem started yesterday. Maybe someone has experienced something like this?

When I just start the engine and move into gear (either R or D) but keep the brake on, there is some pretty serious clanking that comes from what appears to be the front R end (by Right I mean as you sit in the Jeep looking forward). It actually seems to come from the top Rightmost pulley when looking at engine from drivers seat. I have no idea what this pulley is at this point. Once I drive a bit, it seems to be much better.

Any ideas? Once again, thank you for all the help for me the newbie!

Squeeto · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:17 pm

chillmobil wrote:

there is some pretty serious clanking that comes from what appears to be the front R end (by Right I mean as you sit in the Jeep looking forward). It actually seems to come from the top Rightmost pulley when looking at engine from drivers seat. I have no idea what this pulley is at this point.

The viscous heater clicks on and off for a while until the engine heats up. It is attached to the pulley at the top left looking from the front of the truck.
Are you in the Vancouver area?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:18 pm

chillmobil wrote:

New problem started yesterday. Maybe someone has experienced something like this?

When I just start the engine and move into gear (either R or D) but keep the brake on, there is some pretty serious clanking that comes from what appears to be the front R end (by Right I mean as you sit in the Jeep looking forward). It actually seems to come from the top Rightmost pulley when looking at engine from drivers seat. I have no idea what this pulley is at this point. Once I drive a bit, it seems to be much better.

Any ideas? Once again, thank you for all the help for me the newbie!

That is probably the alternator decoupler pulley. It's a special clutched pulley and when it locks up you get a lot of chirping and clanking from the accessory belt. You can replace the pulley or the whole alternator.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:36 pm

CATCRD wrote:

chillmobil wrote:

New problem started yesterday. Maybe someone has experienced something like this?

When I just start the engine and move into gear (either R or D) but keep the brake on, there is some pretty serious clanking that comes from what appears to be the front R end (by Right I mean as you sit in the Jeep looking forward). It actually seems to come from the top Rightmost pulley when looking at engine from drivers seat. I have no idea what this pulley is at this point. Once I drive a bit, it seems to be much better.

Any ideas? Once again, thank you for all the help for me the newbie!

That is probably the alternator decoupler pulley. It's a special clutched pulley and when it locks up you get a lot of chirping and clanking from the accessory belt. You can replace the pulley or the whole alternator.

That's on the left side when looking from the driver's seat.

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

Hi, Thanks for tips. I will look at that one when I return from a 4 day camping trip pulling my trailer. Yes, when engine warms up, it pretty much stops doing the sound.

I am in Kelowna, BC. My buddy and I both own the same Jeep. He has had LOTS of problems with his over past few years and spent a fortune at the local JEEP dealership. I think this forum will really help us take control of the situation. Thanks a lot again. I will look at viscous heater threads to find out what it even is!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:48 am

The viscous heater shouldn't make any noise, that I am aware of, but being in Florida I'm not sure mine runs much if at all. Pop open the power distribution center (between the battery and the grill) and pull the R36 relay to prevent the viscous heater from engaging and see if that makes your sound go away. If it does and you suspect the viscous heater bearing then check out the thread at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60567 as you can get a new bearing cheap via Amazon.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:46 pm

chillmobil wrote:

I am in Kelowna, BC.

One day, take a drive over to Aqualu Industries at 435 Neave Court in Kelowna and ask them to design a tub for our KJ's. :JEEPIN:

CATCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:13 pm

WolverineFW wrote:

CATCRD wrote:

chillmobil wrote:

New problem started yesterday. Maybe someone has experienced something like this?

When I just start the engine and move into gear (either R or D) but keep the brake on, there is some pretty serious clanking that comes from what appears to be the front R end (by Right I mean as you sit in the Jeep looking forward). It actually seems to come from the top Rightmost pulley when looking at engine from drivers seat. I have no idea what this pulley is at this point. Once I drive a bit, it seems to be much better.

Any ideas? Once again, thank you for all the help for me the newbie!

That is probably the alternator decoupler pulley. It's a special clutched pulley and when it locks up you get a lot of chirping and clanking from the accessory belt. You can replace the pulley or the whole alternator.

That's on the left side when looking from the driver's seat.

I know, but sounds can be hard to pinpoint in a noisy engine bay, and the decoupler is the most common source of such noises on the accessory drive. That's why I named it.

chillmobil · **Joined:** Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:46 pm **Posts:** 34

I think you may have been right. I was driving to a camping trip when alternator decoupler pulley and alternator both failed. I drove another roughly 15-20 mins before the engine shut off. My friend came over by side of highway and offered me a boost which was enough charge to drive the JEEP and trailer back to his house. Jeep is now at mechanic and my bill will be $450 for new alternator and pulley plus about $85 labor. Ouch. Wasn't expecting that one! Is it normal to only get 80,000 miles from alternator and pulley?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:23 pm

The alternator itself is rare to fail at that early age. One of my pulleys went at 45k miles, but many go over 100k so it's not exactly common CRD wide.

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