Its not always what the part wants to do but where it needs to be to work when flexed.

And to aberger
NO you do not "need" wheel spacers when you lift
you will not fall over like some suggest you may
Now if you want "the look" or have tires that are rubbing due to tread design or width then yes if you want to install them. I know of several that have been through my place that were lifted and no spacers and go down the road just fine. As a matter of fact I ran mine I think the first 50,000 or so lifted and no spacers and it always stayed rubber side down
So some things you take with a grain of salt

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I figure it's better to go on the safe side with something like that. Wouldn't want to be the one that gave such advice just in case someone (not pointing any fingers) doesn't know how to drive something lifted, just sayin'.

Out of curiosity, why so much emphasis on the extension bracket? I'm assuming you have a scenario in mind where the difference in placement would cause something to go wrong, yes? Enlighten if you will, please.

At 5" of lift and on 33's I didn't need spacers, Now I'm doing a SAS and guess what Still no Spacers Stock width 8.25" Liberty Rear and Stock Width XJ 30HP up front. That seems like a weird argument to me, If you put spacers on you are going to throw the B.S. of the wheel off it may not Rub lifted with stock tires but I guarantee it will with Large tires.

Is it better to use a top plate or go with a clevis lift? On the clevis lift you just move it down 3/8" correct?
thanks for the help

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2006 kj sport 4x4, 6 speed manual, 1.5" ome lift, 1.25" wheel spacers

3/8 top plate or 3/8 clevis lift will net you the same amount of lift for either one - about 3/4' each. I would suggest doing the top plate first. You have to remove the shock/spring assembly to replace your springs, so go ahead and put the top plate on while you have the assembly out. If you don't want to do the clevis initially, you can just wait to do it later. Then if you want a little extra boost in the future, all you have to do is drop the clevis 3/8" and tighten it back down. Much less work than complete removal to install a top plate after the fact...

And flipping because you are taller? LOL! No worries there. even though you are taller, OME springs are much stiffer than stock springs. That equals less body roll - even if you are taller. Each to their own opinion though.

And spacers do not add any more torque to your studs than larger offset wheels. The force your studs see from the torque mentioned is going to be determined by the distance from mounting plate to the centerline of the tire. That would be the same whether you use spacers, or new wheels with increased offset. Most concerns regarding spacers are just that you have to keep an eye on 10 lugs per wheel instead of 5.

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...

Thanks i will do the top plate first. Is there a thread about how to do the ome lift or at least a list of tools i will need.
thanks for the help.

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2006 kj sport 4x4, 6 speed manual, 1.5" ome lift, 1.25" wheel spacers