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 Post subject: Dropping the Y pipe
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 10:29 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Ontario Canada
Bone stock 2002 Libby, ~ 66000 miles, all in Ontario (land of snow and salt). Developed an exhaust leak at the mounting tab for the exhaust heat isolator (blanket over pipe) LHS, nearest to the cat rather than the center of the pipe.

Priced out a replacement at my local parts Dealer at the single income budget crushing price of $399 ish, plus ~ $45 for gaskets.

Yikes.

Fortunately the pipe is otherwise solid. I do have some skills with a mig, however the location of the leak means I must drop the Y pipe to gain access.

The fasteners at the catylitic convertors concern me. They are thoroughly corroded (less than 1/4" diameter), the rhs is somewhat better. I do plan on replacing the hardware; however, is this a loose nut/bolt/spring design or is the nut welded to the flange on the cat? If so, its going to be alot less fun.

On the backside of the bolt where it goes through the flange, looks to be like it was a hex drive? It's impossible to tell because mine are 'REALLY' thin.

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2002 Libby Limited Mall Crawler with occasional fire road hustle.


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 Post subject: Re: Dropping the Y pipe
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 03, 2008 6:24 pm
Posts: 627
Location: Orland Park, IL
Hello from the land of ovenlike temps and sandblasted windows. I crawled under the Jeep and could not tell if the hex nut was welded on or not but experience tends to lean toward weld.

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2006 Liberty Renegade
OME, Rancho, RRO A arms, RRO roof rails w/ diy cross bars, Dual XHD7714 with Pyle speakers, drop in K&N air filter with home made CAI, 8k smittybilt winch , Sears Platinum P1, in cab winch control, 100w Optilux lights, 7" e-code Hella headlights,245/75-16C Duratracs. DIY rockrails, DIY rear double deck cargo rack.


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