Hey guys, newbie here. I recently purchased a used 2006 CRD with 111,000 miles on it. I love it so far. I've read Sam's Noob Guide, and a ton of other technical posts here. I had the Timing belt, tensor, pulleys, and water pump replaced last week. And just ordered a GDE Eco Tune today. My problem occured today on my way home from work. I noticed cruising down the highway that I started getting some shudder at 55mph. After accelerating from a stop light, I got up to about 45 miles per hour, and it felt like the Turbo went out on it, and a drastic loss of power. I tried depressing the gas pedal and the rpm's would go up, but it would barely accelerate. I pulled into a nearby gas station and it started shuddering and knocking really bad. I shut it down for a few minutes, looked under the hood, and didn't notice anything apparently broken or disconnected. The engine light never came on, and no other warning lights came on either. I started it up again, and it's run fine since. Based on reading several posts, I would think it is air in the fuel filter, but being new to all this I'm not sure. I plan to purchase a new fuel filter tomorrow if I can find one at NAPA, and then take it back to the Diesel shop that changed my timing belt to replace it for me, and look it over. Any ideas what could have caused this to happen? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Really sounds like a dirty fuel filter. I would replace that as soon as you can. NAPA should have one.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Thanks CATCRD, I appreciate your help. After reading several posts, I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to make sure.

yes sir x2 for the fuel filter,get one and you will be ok

Fuel filter is the most likely cause. If fuel flow is restricted even a tiny amount, it will throw the engine into limp mode, from which you can only recover by shutting the engine off and restarting. Doesn't have to be off for more than a second or two to reset, but off is required. Jeep says this is to prevent damage. I say I understand if the fuel flow won't permit but 90% of power, let the engine produce 90% of power and throw a CEL. How does it help "save damage" to have the vehicle flattened by that oncoming truck you couldn't get out of the way of because the engine suddenly went totally limp?

Fuel filter is a good start. That said do you have a 1s gen OEM fuel filter head (check Sir Sams NOOB guide fuel fllter bleeder video for a picture at the end of what a 2n gen head looks like)? If you do be sure to pull the fuel heater electical plug on the driver's side and inspect for burning and any hint of diesel fuel inside where it plugs in. If you have either best order and install the 2n gen head (be sure to get the new fuel heater wiring pigtail along with the new head) which comes with a new filter preinstalled along with a new Water In Fuel sensor (save your old WIF just in case).

May not be related but what sort of turbo>intercooler>engine hoses do you have? The original ones tend to get holes/cracks on the bottom and cause a loss of boost but not likely an intermittant one. Since you have read the NOOB guide I suspect you have already looked into this but just in case.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Chesta22,

We will be shipping the flash tool your direction today. Please review the following before ordering just a filter, if your fuel heater connector shows signs of burning you would be best served by ordering a new fuel head below. Order through http://www.moparpartsonline.com as they are cheaper than buying from a dealer and it will be worth the wait.

The KJ CRD has been plagued with air-in-fuel issues that can cause difficult starting, limp-home situations, stall-outs and sometimes a CEL. P0093 is the most common error code, but P0087 is also possible. The most common root cause for air-in-fuel is a melted connector around the terminals for the fuel heater. This connector is located on the fuel/water separator head assembly. There are two connectors, the heater is the one closest to the driver's side. An easy check is to remove the connector by pressing down on the retention tab and pulling. Then press the fuel primer on the head assembly until it becomes hard to press. Use a light to look inside the heater connector on the head to see if fuel or air is seeping out around the terminals. If evidence of leakage is found a new upgraded fuel head assembly is highly recommended! Over time the air leak will get worse and air can cause premature failure of the Bosch fuel pump inlet metering unit...this is when the solution can get very expensive!

Mopar sells an upgraded fuel/water separator assembly that incorporates a larger heater connector and bigger terminals that are properly sized for the current draw (no heat buildup). The assembly also requires an electrical jumper harness with the new mating connector. The original needs to be cut off and the two exposed wires soldered to the new connector.

Fuel/water separator assembly (with new filter) 68043089AA $76.20

Wire harness kit 68043086AA $10.75

The installation is very straight forward and only takes 10-20 minutes. There are two nuts holding the assembly to the firewall (remove these first), then remove the three electrical connectors on the assembly (3rd one on bottom of filter), loosen clamps on fuel supply lines and remove. Then install new unit and re-assemble.

This mod is a good preventative measure and is a good starting point for anyone currently facing air in fuel issues. There are other potential leak paths in the fuel system, but this one is the issue for the vast majority.

You may also want to consider keeping the flash tool after installing the tune so you have a good code reader and be able to clear the fault if it should occur in the future. GDE

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
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