2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with 70k miles. 1600 mile CRD acquisition trip from Indianapolis to Saskatchewan, where everything is running fine (except for a rattle in reverse). 200 miles from home engine icon lights up. Ran ok and got home ok. Next morning, go to start in 32F temp and started in 5 seconds of turning over without plug in. Stops in one second. Go to restart and nothing. No click until key is switched to off and then clicked to starter. Starts. Runs for 1 second. Stops. Code on dash suddenly reads no bu5.

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06 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $23,9k 37k(sold 10/09)
05 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $17k 43k(sold 03/10)
05 CRD Sport Atlantic Blue Sunroof $13k 84k(sold in 2011)
05 CRD Sport Radiant Silver $13,5k 77k(sold 10/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Radiant Silver $17k 70k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Black Green $16k 60k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD SPORT Black $15,9k 93k(in stock)

Sounds like a communication bus error. Maybe something with the SKIM module?

Is the SKIM light on constantly?

The run for 1-2 seconds and stop is what happens if an "invalid" key is used to start the vehicle. See your owner's manual which is stored on a shelf inside the top of the glove box or get an "e" copy from the Jeep web site or Sir Sam's NOOB guide, read the NOOB guide if you have not already done so.

Are you trying to start it with the exact same key you used to drive home with? If not try that key. If so you might want to replace the key battery assuming it's the remote entry key although as I understand it the battery is only to send the door unlock signal and it's the chip in the key that tells the ignition that the key is legit.

Otherwise I suspect for whatever reason the vehicle is not "seeing" your key as valid. If so a good locksmith shop might be worth a visit before going to a dealer. At least around here many locksmith shops have the gear to read and program keys.

CEL who knows, you need to get the code pulled.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Went out this morning and the CRD started and stayed running. The no bu5 warning on dash is out. Engine light still on.
A new rattling sound during idle.
I need to get a Canadian Daytime Running Light module. Know where to escape from the grossed up part prices?

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06 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $23,9k 37k(sold 10/09)
05 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $17k 43k(sold 03/10)
05 CRD Sport Atlantic Blue Sunroof $13k 84k(sold in 2011)
05 CRD Sport Radiant Silver $13,5k 77k(sold 10/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Radiant Silver $17k 70k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Black Green $16k 60k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD SPORT Black $15,9k 93k(in stock)

The no bus message and the start and stop is pretty indicative to me. Your having a PCI bus failure of some sort.

Our keys are security keys with a transponder in them, there is an antenna halo ring that sits around the key cylinder as part of the SKIM module(Sentry Key Immobilizer Module). The SKIM is connected to the BCM, ECU etc via the PCI data bus. When a non correct key is used the vehicle will start and then promptly shut off, or if the SKIM unit is disconnected from the PCI bus the same thing will happen. Hence its very possible you are having a PCI bus failure.

Are any of your other gauges working correctly on the cluster?

If you can get a code reader to read any codes that may be present that would be helpful.

Try putting a trickle charger on the battery and make sure its topped off, I doubt thats the problem but sometimes when batteries are low on voltage they can still crank the CRD but the computers do not run correctly and cause other problems. It is possible that if you had working gauges and no "no bus" message on your last bit of the trip home that the battery ran down a bit overnight and is causing this problem. I don't think I've ever seen it happen this exact way on a KJ before but I have seen other similar problems with low voltage bring down the PCI bus on WJs so its worth a shot to make sure the battery is fully charged.

Is the battery an original chrysler branded optima? If so its probably not long for this world anyway and might be contributing.


The next thing I can say is to bust out a multimeter and start checking the PCI bus, you can find the wiring diagrams in the FSM which is linked in the noob guide. But before you do that I would try the couple of things stated above and report back, reading the codes is always particularly helpful.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

That's interesting, definitely check out the battery then, its very possible that its having a low voltage problem that contributed to the PCI bus failure.

You can order parts online from some different vendors like moparpartsamerica.com chryslerpartsdirect.com and a few others, generally they are priced about the same but sometimes stuff is cheaper from one or the other.


However I think there may be a setting that can be changed in the BCM that enables the DRL, which would just mean a trip to the dealer for a 10 minute procedure of plugging in a DRBIII, and pushing the correct buttons untill the guy figures out what he is doing.(you'll probably get charged an hour of labor for that at something like $90 an hour)

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic