I NEED help!!!!! CRD Missing and smoking.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Nov 15, 2011 11:35 am

dirtmover wrote:

racertracer wrote:

Sounds like it could be a malfunctioning or clogged fuel injector.

Someone suggected this stuff B&G Diesel injector cleaner may help, they say it works: http://www.bgprod.com/products/diesel.html

Or fill the fuel filter to the brim with Seafoam and just let her run for a while.

I've seen two different sets of instructions on the Seafoam website. I'm guessing that the "hot soak" method has the potential to do a better job?

http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use- ... tment.html - Cleaning and Lubricating Diesel Fuel Injectors

"Begin by removing the cover to expose the fuel filter canister. Remove the fuel filter canister cap. Carefully remove the fuel filter. Use absorbent towels to soak up any remaining fuel in the canister. Now fill the canister with Sea Foam® and replace the fuel filter. Make certain the filter is fully primed with Sea Foam® to avoid creating an air lock. Reattach the canister cover and close up the top of the unit. Start the engine. The diesel engine can run on pure Sea Foam®. As Sea Foam® liquefies the varnish and fuel residue in the injectors and cylinders, white clouds of exhaust will be emitted for a few minutes."

http://www.seafoamsales.com/diesel-engine-faqs.html - What are the do's and don'ts of Sea Foam® use in diesel engines?

"Another use for Sea Foam® in Diesel applications is cleaning fuel injectors. This is accomplished by getting engine to operating temperature then shut off. Remove the fuel filter (replace filter if needed.) Empty all diesel fuel from filter or filter housing and fill filter or housing with straight Sea Foam®. Reinstall filter on engine, making sure there is no air in filter. Start engine and let run about two minutes, then shut engine off and let sit about 5 minutes. This is called a “HOT SOAK” letting the Sea Foam® soak into the carbon. After the “hot soak” period, restart the engine and road test, driving aggressively for about 5 miles. This will clean carbon from the injectors and the combustion chamber inside the engine."

Hot soak is the best way to clean the carbon off.

You will notice a positive change in how the engine sounds and the driving feels.

The engine rattle will sound softer and the throttle will respond to just a feather of a touch, improving MPG.

If you are past 100K miles on your engine, then you may need this done as part of regular maintenance.

The best way to clean them is to have a quaified mechanic do the B&G system. The Chrysler service department offers it too.

Seafoam Hot Soak is the most inexpensive way to clean your injectors and upper chamber, you can do it yourself with minor know how.

If you have never done it, I would do it twice the first time and then during regular maintenance after that.

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

racertracer wrote:

P0201 - Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0202 - Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0203 - Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0204 - Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Malfunction
I did at some point loose a fuel line with the jeep running to see if it has pressure. it died. could that be this?

P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
I do have the MAF unplugged

P1267 - #4 Glowplug voltage low
When i bought the car the owner told me the MIL was on because of a bad glow plug

B1301 - Power Door Lock Circuit Open
?

P0106 - Manifold Aboslute Pressure System
I took it out and it was filthy??????? DUNNO if that could cause a fault code?

P0504 - Brake Switch "A"/"B" Correlation - ENGINE START AND DRIVE ABILITY AT ALTITUDE / BRAKE SWITCH DTC
?

P0610 - Control Module Vehicle Options Error
?

Off the wall codes..... could it be a chafed harness?

What year is your Liberty?

This is why i wanted to see what would come back after the reset, butI guess it could be the harness. I will look to see.

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

Sir Sam wrote:

nitrogecko wrote:

I guess it could still be time if someone can tell me how to get the motor to Top dead center or whatever alignment mark it takes to do the valve timing.

could a injector make it get too much fuel?

Have you pulled the intake boost hose off and felt for any backfiring through the intake?

Before you go checking engine timing(because its not particularly easy and involves a lot of teardown), I would start to think about doing a compression/leakdown test, you need only pull the injectors to do that test so its much easier to do, and would tell you if you have some sort of compression fault, be it valve timing related, bad rockers, or part of a GP that stuck below a valve.

To check the engine timing your going to need the cam locking pins and the crank locking pin, see this thread for pictures of the miller 1052, 1053, and 1089
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477

You check the timing by turning the engine to 90°ADTC, then you can install those camshaft locking pins into holes in the valve cover to lock the cams in place, then you can insert the 1089 or suitable sized drill bit into the flywheel hole to check that timing.

I see, I pulled the one before the turbo like an idiot, i just now figured out how pointless that was. I will pull it at the throttleboddy, correct?

Also where can i find these injector compression tester?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:23 pm

nitrogecko wrote:

I see, I pulled the one before the turbo like an idiot, i just now figured out how pointless that was. I will pull it at the throttleboddy, correct?

Also where can i find these injector compression tester?

Yes pull it at the throttle body, if you can feel a noticeable puff of air coming out of the throttle body that will be very telling, if not its still inconclusive, you might have other problems. But checking for that air puff will be quick and easy way to tell that something is up.

The compression tester adapter is miller part number 1072, it costs about $75 new from miller:
http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=1308

GDE(green diesel engineering) rents timing belt tools, they may have that tool available for rent as well, otherwise you might try contacting some of the members here(like myself) that have the complete tool set and see if they are willing to rent the tool out to you.

Should it end up being compression/valve related you will end up needing other tools for doing the timing belt and retiming the engine.

First though, check that intake to see if you feel that puff of air, if not try tracking down other potential issues before getting into other stuff.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:33 pm

nitrogecko wrote:

Also where can i find these injector compression tester?

Harbor freight has 2 different sets. One inexpensive that loks like it has several glow plug style adapters and a expensive set that lke it has injector style adapters.
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-d ... 46800.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-d ... 93644.html

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

i pulled the turbo hose at the throttle body, i can hear barking, like a hot cam, but i don't see or feel anything coming out of the intake. It could also be that i just am not sensitive enough to feel it. I guess i should have posted a video. Would that help?

are there any GOOD shops in the CHARLOTTE,NC area that can do this for me that anyone knows of.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:17 pm

Diesel Doctors LLC
4200 Joe St
Charlotte NC 28026

(704) 921-2100

info@dieseldoctorsnc.com

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

racertracer wrote:

Diesel Doctors LLC
4200 Joe St
Charlotte NC 28026

(704) 921-2100

info@dieseldoctorsnc.com

have you had any dealings with him?

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

nitrogecko wrote:

racertracer wrote:

Diesel Doctors LLC
4200 Joe St
Charlotte NC 28026

(704) 921-2100

info@dieseldoctorsnc.com

have you had any dealings with him?

I phoned them, they said that they only work on BIG diesels like detroit, cummins, cat. I appreciate your input and effort but i meant someone that was already familliar with the motor and all all of it's nuances.

tregrrr · **Joined:** Mon Oct 10, 2011 2:37 pm **Posts:** 59

Sir Sam wrote:

**snip**
Before you go checking engine timing(because its not particularly easy and involves a lot of teardown), I would start to think about doing a compression/leakdown test, you need only pull the injectors to do that test so its much easier to do, and would tell you if you have some sort of compression fault, be it valve timing related, bad rockers, or part of a GP that stuck below a valve.
**snip**

@140k, its gotta be done anyways though right??

I personally would not even be seafoaming the engine until that pretty little belt gets changed. I would run it as much as needed to diagnose the issues, BUT NO MORE!!! you never know, that belt might decide to kick you in the teeth in 100hours or 100seconds of operating time... either way you are at 140% wear level of a part which has proven to fail at 110%.

How many more bullets do you want to put into the revolver before spinning the Russian roulette wheel?? At 140k miles, you already have at least 4 bullets with and do not know if its a six or five shooter!! I for one would not tempt fate any further than I could throw her and our Libbies are BBW's at 4400lbs

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:04 pm

nitrogecko wrote:

i pulled the turbo hose at the throttle body, i can hear barking, like a hot cam, but i don't see or feel anything coming out of the intake. It could also be that i just am not sensitive enough to feel it. I guess i should have posted a video. Would that help?

are there any GOOD shops in the CHARLOTTE,NC area that can do this for me that anyone knows of.

It was very obvious to me that it was backfiring out the intake, I would suggest moving on to a compression test.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:09 pm

tregrrr wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

**snip**
Before you go checking engine timing(because its not particularly easy and involves a lot of teardown), I would start to think about doing a compression/leakdown test, you need only pull the injectors to do that test so its much easier to do, and would tell you if you have some sort of compression fault, be it valve timing related, bad rockers, or part of a GP that stuck below a valve.
**snip**

@140k, its gotta be done anyways though right??

I personally would not even be seafoaming the engine until that pretty little belt gets changed. I would run it as much as needed to diagnose the issues, BUT NO MORE!!! you never know, that belt might decide to kick you in the teeth in 100hours or 100seconds of operating time... either way you are at 140% wear level of a part which has proven to fail at 110%.

How many more bullets do you want to put into the revolver before spinning the Russian roulette wheel?? At 140k miles, you already have at least 4 bullets with and do not know if its a six or five shooter!! I for one would not tempt fate any further than I could throw her and our Libbies are BBW's at 4400lbs

While I agree the belt needs to be done you don't want to go changing too many things around at once, if a slipped belt has nothing to do with the problem then its only possible to make things worse(ie screwing up installing it) and compounding the problem without knowing it. Making additional diagnosis more difficult.

jinstall · **Posted:** Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:57 pm

Johnn Greene Jeep in Morganton just replaced my engine a few months back. Their labor rate is real good and were pretty good about keeping me informed.

tigafila · **Posted:** Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:47 am

I'm with Sir Sam on the need for a compression test first. The first thing I would do is unplug all of the injectors and see if it cranks evenly, or if you can hear one easy cylinder as each comes up on compression. The easy way to pinpoint which cylinder is to unplug the injectors one at a time with the engine running until you find the one that makes no change in the idle. You don't need any fancy adaptors or anything to find the cylinder with no compression, pull the injectors, stick your finger or something suitable to make a slight seal down each injector hole one at a time and have someone crank it. The offending cylinder will act COMPLETELY different than the others. To see what happened to mine when a broken glow plug held a valve open look at the 6th post down here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62685&p=693583#p693583 there are lots of pics in the attachment. When I pulled the injector on the cylinder that was missing the injector tip was smashed. I really hope yours did not go the way of mine but if it has low compression on one cylinder from a broken glow plug it won't be cheap. Feel free to pm me if you have questions. Tigafila

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

SO i have tried adjusting the timing and it seems worse.

http://youtu.be/Nfv16NvDC8k

this is what she sounds like now.

I guess i will pull the motor and then strip until i find it.

any advise on how to take out the motor?

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:24 pm

Watching the video, it sounds like something is off while turning over - a dead cylinder?

Also - was that some type of liquid running out of the FCV/intake on the driver's side?

Mark

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:04 pm

Also, I went back and read all the posts from the beginning.

Your comment about the marks on the cam gears lining up is likely to mean you haven't read through instructions on how to time the engine? No criticism, only to point out that the marks mean nothing... so you cannot conclude that the engine is in time based upon those marks (the ones stamped into the gears). Also, if you adjusted the timing *at all* based upon them, you are likely off enough to have broken the rocker arms on one or more cylinders - thinking that was already the case tho.

Looking at the codes - many can be set aside for the moment with diagnostic efforts as the probable cause; here I'd cite your post regarding disconnecting fuel while running / diagnostics, pulling the MAF sensor, etc. The MAP code is expected with the turbo / CAC hoses disconnected since no boost is making it to the intake; the computer wonders why... again, expected and not the cause of the rough running.

I agree with the post about P0610 - sounds like the computer (ECM) is needing to be reset using a DRBIII or possibly re-programmed by someone like GDE. I don't think that's the cause of rough running at the moment. Here's one reference re: P0610

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/06-crd-obdii-engine-light-code-p0610-664875/

All the above and the appearance of oily back-flow coming out the FCV lead me to believe that the timing belt has jumped or is out of alignment and that one or more cylinders isn't getting it's valves open/closed any more (or, perhaps partly).

Since you've pulled it apart as far as you have, I'd plan on getting the tools (rent from GDE) and pull the engine cover to inspect the rocker arms. That will tell you how much work is left to do? While you're doing that and perhaps waiting for parts - if you can get the ECM to GDE that'll be one problem out of the way.

Wish I could offer better news - but I can relate... Your's may have jumped at 140k, mine did so at 145k. Actually, once I got the belt off I could see the teeth on the belt that had snapped off.

Mark

galatron · **Posted:** Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:46 pm

yeah bud, sounds like you've got an impacted rocker(s) there. you're looking at 15 - 20 hours of work at least to get your engine put back together. check out my post "top end teardown" - looks like you're already half way there.

I personally lost two thirds of my rockers and two of the lifters were shattered. I rebuilt the lifters I had and bought new rockers from forum member "wobbly"

While i had the valve cover off, I took the intake elbow to my radiator shop and had them make covers for the EGR input and exhaust manifold. they're the same and this way I didn't have to remove the exhaust manifold.
Then I tapped and plugged the return on the head and removed all the EGR plumbing and equipment.

A friend and I are putting straight pipes on the CRD's right now..
I can tell you that the engine response is better and so far the oil looks and feels better than it did with the EGR equipment on. - not as gritty.

you need at least five critical tools.
the two cam alignment tools
the crankshaft position tool
the two valve cover positioning pins (easy to make)
the cam bolt loosening and tightening tool (also easy to make)

You could also just rent them all from GDE

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Fri Apr 06, 2012 2:56 pm

nitrogecko wrote:

SO i have tried adjusting the timing and it seems worse.

You can't "Adjust timing" on a timing belt without damaging something. Your first video sounded like a normal healthy longblock with maybe an idler pulley ceased causing squealing but now theres internal damage. People here are trying to help you but your doing your own thing... Good luck.

nitrogecko · **Joined:** Sat May 01, 2010 11:10 am **Posts:** 29

msilbernagel wrote:

Watching the video, it sounds like something is off while turning over - a dead cylinder?

Also - was that some type of liquid running out of the FCV/intake on the driver's side?

Mark

yes thank you. I have figured that out. But thanks for telling me. this was the information i was looking for from the start. I did use the alignment pins to check the timing.

I NEED help!!!!! CRD Missing and smoking.

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