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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:39 pm 
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Location: Houston, tx
I have owned for one year and loved it so much that got me a limited one with all the perks, which is the one I am driving now. I only mooded the libbies with the GDE FT tune, provent, and that's it. I have not replaced anything beyond maintenance stuff, and get 26.5 MPG in the winter and 29.3 mpg in the summer @ 69 mph (2000 rpm) and just some regular driving after that. also, I put about a 110 miles a day on it with about 70% of those miles being hwy miles. In short, I would only trade my libby limited the day there is a diesel rig out there with same capabilities and better MPGs.
:pepper:


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:39 am 
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I'd like to hear more about how the diesel motor doesn't outlast the gas one. So is it the consensus that the gas liberty engines last longer than the diesel ones? I have been seeing the gas ones going out at about 175k. Maybe this thread should be moved because I am finding myself "off topic".....

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'06 Liberty CRD,'02 VW Golf TDI, '84 Military Blazer (Diesel)


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:05 am 
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go here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63393&p=708058#p708058

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:24 pm 
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logom wrote:
I'd like to hear more about how the diesel motor doesn't outlast the gas one. So is it the consensus that the gas liberty engines last longer than the diesel ones? I have been seeing the gas ones going out at about 175k. Maybe this thread should be moved because I am finding myself "off topic".....


This is the point of this thread. Make a convincing argument that the CRD is worth the added expense. That, taking into consideration the maintenance, premium pricing and of course the huge difference between diesel and regular fuel, is it truly worth going after?

Diesels historically last a long time, but this specific model seems plagued with maintenance issues and 15 years ago, diesel was dirt cheap.

A couple years ago I was figuring out the cost effectiveness of using a diesel Jetta. Talking with a master tech, based on the maintenance schedule and cost of fuel, the Jetta would only make sense economically if traveling over 20,000 miles a year (40k mi interval timing belt, usual oil changes, fueling vs gas, etc.)

Sure the torque is great and the fuel economy, if careful, is great as well. But when you factor in maintenance and the fuel expense, is it still literally worth it compared to the gas engine?

So far, the answer is no.

Dough

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Dough!
1982 MB 240D (died at 230k mi.)
1989 MB 190E 2.6 (sold at 155k mi,)
1999 BMW 328i Dinan Stage 1 (sold at 110k mi.)
2007 Acura TSX (going strong at 97k mi.)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (59,869 mi.)


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:19 pm 
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What you are not getting is that the answer was NO from the very start of this thread, We already know all this.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:36 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
My two cents (and they are hardly worth that) is that these little diesels are great hobby cars, kinda unique in the US and GREAT town cars (short wheel base with great acceleration, short turning radius and good gas mileage). I got mine because it was just a perfect fit for me and I wanted to own a diesel because in the past 66 years I had not owned one.

I tow a bass boat and we are launching off the lake shore in TX because the lakes are so low. Great to have the torque and the 4WD.
I run the TX beaches looking for red fish in the surf. Great to have the 4WD and plastic lower body parts.
Small wheel base and good gas mileage in town.
Good mileage towing my boat.
OK highway mileage (no tunes on this baby yet)

For me it is a great car, for someone else not so much. You gotta know what you need and what you want, then decide what to buy.

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Stone White 2005 KJ Limited CRD.
EHS, ORM, Fixed Flex Fan done.
Does EXACTLY what I expected pulling my 20 ft bass boat, chasing reds up and down the beach at North Padre Island.


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 7:45 pm 
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racertracer wrote:
What you are not getting is that the answer was NO from the very start of this thread, We already know all this.


Actually, I believe the very first post was one of your usual, unhelpful posts:

racertracer wrote:
Do your own convincing...... we are not here to convince you.

Spend a few months and do some reading.


Though I do thank you for contributing your link.

Dough

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Dough!
1982 MB 240D (died at 230k mi.)
1989 MB 190E 2.6 (sold at 155k mi,)
1999 BMW 328i Dinan Stage 1 (sold at 110k mi.)
2007 Acura TSX (going strong at 97k mi.)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (59,869 mi.)


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:55 pm 
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Location: CANADA
doughboyea wrote:
racertracer wrote:
What you are not getting is that the answer was NO from the very start of this thread, We already know all this.


Actually, I believe the very first post was one of your usual, unhelpful posts:

racertracer wrote:
Do your own convincing...... we are not here to convince you.

Spend a few months and do some reading.


Though I do thank you for contributing your link.

Dough
:BINGO:

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:52 am 
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turbobill wrote:
My two cents (and they are hardly worth that) is that these little diesels are great hobby cars...


Hobby? Hmm. I think hobby car and I envision pleasure vehicles, not everyday-use type of vehicle. Say like a classic registered car: limited to 2,000 miles a year, only legally drivable on weekends and special events. Is this what you mean or did I misunderstand?

turbobill wrote:
For me it is a great car, for someone else not so much. You gotta know what you need and what you want, then decide what to buy.


I need a vehicle with good ground clearence, good torque, low maintenance, 4x4 and decent gas mileage. Basically the "Holy Grail" of SUVs.

Going purely on mpg's...
I do roughly 1430 miles a month.
With my current car (30 mpg on premium) it would cost me $172 a month.
With a CRD (assuming 24 mpg on diesel) it would cost me $238 a month.
With a Cherokee (assuming 20 mpg on regular) it would cost me $243 a month.

What would the consistent maintenance costs and intervals be for the CRD and Cherokee (ie oil change costs, differential fluid changes, timing belts, etc.)? Knowing specifics would make for a more educated decision.

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Dough!
1982 MB 240D (died at 230k mi.)
1989 MB 190E 2.6 (sold at 155k mi,)
1999 BMW 328i Dinan Stage 1 (sold at 110k mi.)
2007 Acura TSX (going strong at 97k mi.)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (59,869 mi.)


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:14 pm 
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doughboyea wrote:
.

What would the consistent maintenance costs and intervals be for the CRD and Cherokee (ie oil change costs, differential fluid changes, timing belts, etc.)? Knowing specifics would make for a more educated decision.

Between the gas KJ(3.7) and CRD the basic maintenance is the same........

Diff services(both) every 12k-15k
Trans service between 30k-60k(ATF+4 only)
Coolant service-5 years/100k
T-case service every 30k-60k

Added for CRD is............

Timing belt/waterpump every 100k
Fuel filter at least every year or 20k
Oil change every 6k or so,expensive oil

Subtracted from standard gasser service is..........

Spark plugs every 30k(less then $12 for parts)
PCV valve every 30k-60k($5 part)
Oil change every 3k,cheaper oil

Whne all said and done the CRD has a higher cost due to fuel filters and timing belt.If doing the work your self you can change the spark plugs on the gasser KJ about 36 times before coming to the cost of a DIY timing belt job with waterpump.


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:28 pm 
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I love my CRD!!! I drive it every day. its my only vehicle. so far I have had very few troubles. thermostat being one. Air in fuel, my fault because of my first filter change I didnt blead it all out. a broken power seat relay, I don't move the seats so not a big deal. Now I have a broken TPMS sensor. so in two years not much. I do my own oil changes. I have the GDE eco tune. really it good for me. met another CRD owner not long ago he loved his but said his was trouble, no mechanic knew how to work on it. he had turbo problems and oil pan problems. He does none of his own work and takes it to jiffy lube for an oil change. He didn't have a timing belt changed and was at 125,000 miles. didn't know about lost like I did from before I made the purchase. Knowlege and willingness to work on it some as talked about here seems to make the difference.

with the tune I have gotten a best of 33 MPG highway, 29 pre tune. I mostly get 20-22 around town now. A gas liberty can't do that.

my advise is the CRD is worth it if you want to do some of your work and fix what should have been to make it right. IF that is not you then get a honda CR-v, a toyota Rav4 or Subaru Outback or Forester if towing and off road use is not important.

I used to have an Outback, nice car really

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Yes, the CRD Liberty is a hobby car!!! It requires lots of TLC, more than a few mods and is almost totally unsupported by the dealers. There were only 12000 sold in the US, the power train is a mishmash of this and that and a kluge of computers to make everything run.

It is certainly MY hobby, second only to bass fishing and chasing red fish on the TX beaches. If I couldn't work on this little buggy and did not enjoy doing so it would have been gone in less than a month. Before buying the CRD I was strongly considering putting a UPS diesel power train in an old CJ I have, I went the CRD route because I got this one for what it would have cost to do that modification.

This is not a car I would buy and send my daughter off to college in.

I put a 1,000 miles a month on the jeep and spend 6 to 8 hours a month working on its mechanics. Lift pump, provent, ehm, orm, back up lights that don't work, etc, etc, etc.

I love my CRD, will probably keep it till I die, but it is definitely a hobby car.

_________________
Stone White 2005 KJ Limited CRD.
EHS, ORM, Fixed Flex Fan done.
Does EXACTLY what I expected pulling my 20 ft bass boat, chasing reds up and down the beach at North Padre Island.


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 Post subject: Re: Convince me that a CRD is worth it.
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:12 pm
Posts: 26
Location: Mesa, AZ (migrant haven)
U.S. spec, 2006, w/65k miles. Engine is 'bone stock'. Lifted 2", Rubi wheels, Ranchos and 245's. Bought extended warranty (2 years worth) and it has already paid for itself in transmission repairs and window regulators. It is just beginning to exhibit fuel starvation symptoms, so I bought another filter to change out when I have the time, inclination and/or when it finally 'strands' me. I changed the filter IMMEDIATELY after initial acquisition and have a little over a 1-1/2 years on it, but nowhere near 12-15k miles. It's time . . .

MPG's: Highway unloaded = 30+
Highway unloaded w/AC on: 28.5
Highway loaded, pulling small (1,000 lb.) TD trailer for 3 days w/AC on = 24.5
Combined city/highway commute (20+ miles/day) = 21.5
Mileage seems to be a little better in summer than winter ( % UNKNOWN )

I'm light on the pedal, most days, but blow it out when merging into highway traffic or when some 'tailgater' pisses me off enough.

Just had rotation and alignment done. It came into spec with no parts issues noted (and that's with me 'requesting' they have a look for worn ball joints). I'm guessing the previous owner already had the ball joints replaced.

It has only been off-road a couple of times, but nothing serious like I did with the '05 - yet.
If you treat it like a 'rock buggy', it's gonna' break BIG TIME.
If you drive conservatively and 'creepy crawly' through the rough stuff, they hold up O.K.
(NOTE: a newer Cherokee isn't built any better)

Bottom line: maintenance and your driving habits and/or locale will make or break this for you.

Good luck.

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