Hello!

I am posting in the hope of finding out a solution to my CRD's problems.

It's losing coolant with no visible leak (internal). It has been like that for at least a year. I did an oil analysis and found coolant in the oil (blackstone said it had a problem, called me and mentioned a possible head gasket issue). I took it it to my usual shop, and the mechanic told me that very likely I would need a new engine. He recommended, since the leak is slow (about 1month+ topping off) to simply fill it up as needed. He quoted me around ten grand, including labor, for a new engine, and even went to say I should look into a gas version if I really like the liberty, as I could get one rather cheap in relation to the repair. I like the CRD, and was hoping to find a fix for it. He mentioned that after running it for 45 minutes, he noted water coming out somewhere (bear with me as I dont currently remember and I am awaiting an email of him explaining it for my records). He then described what he did and why he thought the problem might be in the lower part of the engine (I thought that was a pretty tough engine). I was bummed because I was hoping it would be the head gasket/or the head itself, as I was willing to cover the cost. At this point I dont know what to do, as it seems I might just have to wait for it to die before getting a new vehicle, but I would like to keep this one as my end of the world vehicle (or until there's no more coolant available).

I have another issue, and is that when I am driving, and accelerate, I tend to smoke a little... not constantly, but under rev. I understand that some smoke is normal, but cars behind me usually slow down as they enter my clouds. I dont know if its related, but figured I mention it in case its linked to the coolant issue, plus it seems to be a little too much.

I have to replace also the whose that goes from the ccv puck to the (?) turbo hose. do I need a special tool for that? would brute strenght be the ticket?

I get around 18-21mpg (my wife's get around 14-16), which I think is low, but given the other problems and the mud tires I am okay with it. I dont beat it up wheeling, more like I go off the beaten path and up a rough hill here and there. the last time I did this, the temp gauge went up pretty high and freaked me out, however, it never beeped, or anything like that, plus it was a hot day in an arid place.

I have limited mechanical know how, but for the money, I figure I might as well learn. So I thought I come here and see what some of you might recommend, or maybe how to diagnose/rule out the big issues. Also, if you have CRD expert in California (bay area), I would love to hear about that.

If I can fix the coolant leak (find it first) I can probably lift the CRD and do other bad things to my wife's vehicle. Please help me do such things to it

Blown or leaky head gasket, a common problem with our engine.

I experienced it and needed to replace the cylinder head and gasket, all is fine after $3000 worth of parts and labor but it included the $1400 dollars timing belt parts and labor so i didn't feel so bad.

Check fora leaky cylinder head by using a combustion leak detection lkit for diesel.

For sure you need a new head gasket.

Miles on the CRD and where are you located?

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

To add to racertracer's comments:
1. smoke is not unusual on acceleration; my current 2005 looked like a mosquito fogging truck until I got the GDE EcoTune after which no smoke. I imagine it's possible that water in the combustion area could add to the smoke but suspect it would change the typical black smoke color although I don't know that for sure.
2. hose from CCV puck to airbox to turbo hose - remove intercooler to turbo hose; undo puck hose at puck; undo airbox to turbo hose (may need long screwdriver or rachet extension to get to turbo end clamp screw); remove airbox to turbo hose and puck hose as one unit; remove puck hose from airbox to turbo hose "T" (I've not seen this but am told there is a barb involved at the "T" fitting); check airbox to turbo hose for tear at turbo end (ca. $55 dealer replacement); while in there check turbo shaft for excess play and turbo vanes for housing contact; reinstall is the reverse BUT take care to make sure the airbox and intercooler hose and clamps are FULLY on the plastic at the intercooler and airbox and don't Godzilla either clamp lest you crush the plastic (if the clamp is fully on the plastic you are fine but it the clamp is canted or right on the outer edge look out - I know, just replaced air box cover due to not paying attention).
3. heat rise on heavy load & hot ambient is not unusual. The engine/temp system is self limiting such that if you get into certain high temp areas things shut off (see http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/19.page ). However, the clutch on the fan immediately in front of the engine is a know failure point (especially on the 2005) and a bad fan clutch means that fan is not kicking in, there are methods to check this and the typical solution is a Hayden heavy duty clutch (some replace the fan with the gasser nylon one - or alternatively there is a fixed fan mode with no clutch). Only hard part of doing this DIY is getting the fan and fan shroud off to replace the clutch.

Water problem
1. I agree with racertracer that head gasket is a very likely source but you need to confirm if that is the source. I'm not fully up on the coolant flow circuit of the CRD but wonder if the EGR or oil cooler might be another source. I know the EGR is water cooled and suspect the oil cooler is also. Hence I'd be very interested in your mechanics reply as to where water was coming "out"
2. need new engine - strongly doubt, absent a hydrolock destroying a cylinder.
3. convert to gas - might be possible but not easy given electronics but I see no reason to consider that.
4. 10 grand - maybe but maybe he has a boat payment due
5. simple head gasket replacement more likely and even if a new/replacement head is needed there are good used ones available. Can be a DIY project if you know what you are doing and depending on your location there are experienced members.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I have done head gaskets on a number of engines. They are not generally difficult; probably the worst I have done was a '92 Honda civic DX with the D15B7 motor (or was it a B15D7? ). I did not take the advice I had been given about getting a SS gasket, and ended up redoing the job about 35K miles later. With a SS gasket.

Glycol coolant in a IC engine does increase smoke load.

I do not know if ARP makes studs for this VM Motori engine, but if they do, and I had to replace head gaskets, I would absolutely get a set. The ability to repeatedly remove and replace the heads without buying new head bolts is nice, but the real reason is the tremendous increase in clamping force they provide. No more blown head gaskets.

(One of the issues with Volvo diesel and turbodiesel engines is that the moment you lose cooling the aluminium head warps. Every time almost without fail. This is annoying at best, but the 'school solution' is to buy a set of ARP racing studs and clamp that bad boy to the nickel iron block. No more warpage, no leakage, and you can reset your waste gate for much higher pressures....)

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

A few years ago a guy on here posted that he had ARP make heads studs to his measurements, but I don't think it's a stock item at ARP.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I may give them a call..... will advise if they can do 'em.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

WOW, This is all helpful info...

I am in Oakland, CA (SF Bay Area)

the CRD has 115K miles.
the leak problem has been there about about 10-12k. I owned it since 85K

I bought the NAPA Balkman combustion leak tester, will this work with a diesel engine?
What I did was I removed the coolant res cap, and let it warm up to operating temp. Then I place the syringe on the opening, held it there for about 2 minutes while building pressure, then press the bulb for a bit to do the test. I hope this is what I needed to do, the instructions were not in the box.

The mechanic hasn't contacted me back.

Thanks!

If your combustion leak detector kit is the NAPA Balkamp BK-700-1006 then yes it is the right one although there are several others avalable, you need to make sure that the kit is able to read diesel exhaust fumes. I learned that the gasser kit will not work on a diesel engine.

If the fluid turns green then you have a head gasket leak.

On gassers the fluid turns yellow.

Diesel fumes are tough to detect ..... you will need to pull the fumes through the tube multiple times in order for the fluid to turn color.

And you very likely do not need a new engine.

What you do need is a knowledgeable diesel mechanic that is fair and willing to assist you and finding one should be one of your first concerns.

I would ask a jeep mechanic for the name of a mechanic who knows how to work on the CRD besides the dealership.

Report back.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

If you decide not to do this yourself, I suggest that you check the local VW shops for one that does diesel work. You might also ask around at the commercial truck diesel shops; one of their mechanics may have small enough wrenches for the CRD.

Head gaskets and the associated seals are cheap, it's the labor that is expensive, but being in the Bay area you don't have to worry about snow drifting into the block; you would not even need a garage.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

With 115,000 miles on your CRD, I trust you did the timing belt at 100,000, when it was due. If not, it is crucial that you do it ASAP: really bad things happen if that belt breaks on you. I would have also suggested you check the EGR cooling hoses, as I had mine start leaking around that time. They are a pain to replace, but the parts aren't expensive. But with coolant in the oil, it does sound to me also like a blown head gasket. While you are doing the job, even if the EGR coolant lines are still ok, I'd go ahead and replace them as preventative maintenance. Might as well do the air hoses to/from the turbo, since they have to come off to do the rest, and they'd be about due, as well. In fact, they may account for some of that smoke, as they are prone to split, but could develop small leaks before popping.

+1 on the above.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

Good advice!

_________________
Mike Rausch
Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K

I changed the CCV hose this afternoon. Then I did the combustion test. Here is the "result". Though the image looks blue, I thought it looked like it had a green tint to it... I re did the test, and noticed that the color changes (its an exact match from the bottle color), but seems inconclusive, or not enough gas to make the change very noticeable. I think the photo shows it bluer than it looked to me. It originally matched the color in the bottle.

What other ways can I do to diagnose this?



Timing belt has been serviced along with related parts, so Im good there.

Thanks.

The color has begun to change and it will continue to change when you continue to syphon more exhaust fumes.

You need to perform the test continually without removing the test vial from the warm engine and until the color stops changing.

Once you have sealed the system by pushing down on the cone rubber part of the test vial into the place where the radiator cap was, you must continue to keep it there while syphoning out the fumes, never permitting outside air to come in.

It took a half hour to 45 minutes to perform this test because the exhaust fumes are so small.

From what can I see in the picture of your test vial, you do have a leaky head gasket.

If you didn't have a leaky head gasket the color of the dye in the test vial would not have begun to change at all.

If you want to confirm this, then pour the dye that you have in the vial into a clear glass container and then pour new dye into the clean test vial and compare the colors, you will notice that there is a change even if it is miniscule.

When I tested my system, the color of the dye in the vial looked the same as yours at first, performing the test multiple times caused the dye color to change to a deeper green.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I ran the test for at least 20 minutes, and performed it 2x. I thought something was wrong, because at one point I couldnt suck anything out anymore, so I redid it. But at the end, the result was the same, a color change. In sunlight, it looked greener, but still blue. I thought it was because the syringe had less liquid, thus it looked like that, but when I poured fresh one, it was a match to the bottle color, so definately a color change occurred.


I have the FSM PDF (the liberty and the 2.5) and parts fiche, are there any other manuals or documents that have info on these vehicles?
Im debating doing this myself, never done more than change head cover gaskets and other parts outside the engine, and this one seems complicated. Probably won't do it.

Thanks.

I found a mechanic (dealer) who is/can actually work on the CRD. One dealer didnt want to, another wanted a "long block conversion", and the diesel shop told me to get rid of it due to possible parts availability or headaches since its the only one he's seen... all I need is a head gasket change and I am paying for it!

Any ways, after a dealer told me to go to Reno since they were the closest's with the tools to work on it, I found a local dealer that had to buy the tools last month for a similar job. They are taking it in next week, and the guy told me it would take a while to get it back since he couldnt tell, from the VIN, the size of gasket, so he would only find out once he got there... honestly, this is the most knowledgeable answer I've had so far, and the only one willing to work on it that I can trust, so here it goes.

I am interested in the SS gasket, so long as its a better replacement for longer term performance. I would like to avoid this issue if possible, though not sure what caused it to begin with, as when I bought it, it didnt had the leak (I think), and it never overheated with me.

Where can I find one of them, if recommended?