Source for turbochargers?

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:15 pm

Does anyone have a good source for a new turbocharger? What should I expect to pay for a turbo? I may have someone install it if I do. Does anyone have the p/n for it?

I may need one on the wifes CRD. I started it this AM and let it idle 15-20 mins as always in the winter before she left for work. I drove it a mile into town and back and noticed at about 10mph when I let off of the accelerator I had a fairly loud "woosh" wastegate type noise that I never heard (or noticed) before. It sounded normal otherwise. I can't say that it sounds bad otherwise, it has the normal whistle that it has always has. It could be because it was -5ºF last night, and was about +5ºF when I drove it. I'll check again tomorrow, but don't want to take a chance if it is about to sh*t the bed on me. I checked the oil and it was full. I change the oil every 4-5K, I use 0w40 M1 and use Purolator Pure One oil filters. I have had the ORM since we got it at 47K (15K now). I idle it at least 5 mins before driving in the AM, usually 20 mins, and idle 2-3 minutes upon shut down depending on how it is driven. Sometimes as little as 1 minute if driven slowly around town, or circling a parking lot where it has ample time to cool. We live off of a 55mph road, so I take more precautions than most. The miles we put on it are 100% highway.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:42 am

I'd check with the folks at Green Diesel Engineering (GDE) - they're all over the place here on LOST.

If you're set on factory, there are these folks: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/pro ... 05142797AB

Stock Code RL142797AC
Your Price $ 2260.00
Additional Notes Remanufactured Export Only.
Alternate Stock Code 05142797AA; 05142797AB; 05142797AC; RX142797AC;
Categories Fuel > Throttle Body
Assemblies Turbocharger [2.8L EN0] (TURBOCHARGER. . ST. Required: 001
TURBOCHARGER. Remanufactured Export Only. . ST. Required: 001); Turbocharger 2.8L [EN0] (TURBOCHARGER. . ST. Required: 001
TURBOCHARGER. Remanufactured Export Only. . ST. Required: 001)
Manufacturer Chrysler

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:45 am

On the OTHER hand.. it *sounds* like you've split a CAC hose (turbo -> Intercooler, or Intercooler -> engine/EGR).

I'd ask someone else to rev the engine on command while you look for the air leak.

The oil from the crankcase vent enters the system and coats the hoses, causing them to break down eventually.

FYI - Mark

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:02 am

Don't waste your time trying to find a leaky hose while it is installed, you most likely DO have a ripped hose, and it will be on the bottom of the hose and dang hard to locate. Seems like the tears have happened on the intercooler-to-engine hose at the engine end, b/c of the oil contamination from the CCV that coats up everything.

Pull the chinese finger puzzle wrap off the hose, and see all that filth? That is b/c the pressure is physically PUSHING the oil THROUGH the walls of the hose. Since I replaced mine, (and didn't bother reusing that filthy tube) the hoses have remained clean on the outside. Why? The hoses are the new style, completely impervious to oil damage. Dealers have them, or some on here suggest Samco replacements. Either will solve your problem for good.

While you are in there, pull the airbox-to-turbo hose and look at that one. Chances are, the oil from the CCV has destroyed that completely. $55 dealer-only part, and I would suggest a Provent oil trap, one of the new BMW oil traps that were just discovered here... Or an EHM to prevent this ever happening again, and keep the rest of your intake clean too.

Good luck!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:17 am

X2 on geordi's comments about how to check those hoses.

On a different topic please do yourself; your engine and, dare I say it, the environment not to mention your fuel consumption a huge favor and stop that excessive "warm-up" idle time. That process has not been recommended for decades by any vehicle company and in fact goes back to gas engines in the years before mult-weight engine oils were developed when you had to warm up the engine oil to get it to function at the single weight rate. In addition a modern diesel engine simply won't warm up from dead cold by idling in any reasonable period of time, I know I've tried on a stored vehicle in the summer here in North Florida. The best procedure is to get into the vehicle; crank it up; then do the seat belt/mirror/etc adjustment; and drive off after a few seconds (e.g. just long enough for the oil pump to pressurize things) at a moderate speed until the coolant temp gauges shows some sign of life (generally a mile or 2). If it's cold (25-20F or below) use the plug in block heater (if you don't know where the cord is look down on the tube for the oil dipstick and you will find a wire bundle tied to that tube, undo the bundle and route along wiring harnesses with wire ties to in front of the battery) ideally with a timer set to come on about 3 hrs before startup. Another down side to the long warm up time followed by regular driving speed is that warmup time does absolutely nothing for the fluids in you drive train (transfer case, tranny, rear end) in comparison to an initial period of modest driving. In my case that modest speed period lasts about from my driveway to the local main street.

At the opposite end of driving though the cool down idle or a few minutes of lower speed driving is important to turbo life.

As to the GDE turbo option. I just got mine 2 days ago and look forward to an install sometime this spring (hear that geordi?) likely after I upgrade my torque convertor. I assume Keith has a few in stock but how many I don't know; he does orders in groups of about 10 when he has customers to justify the run on this custom turbo rig. Price is $2,500 delivered which includes the GDE tune required to run the turbo with a $300 discount on that price if you already have a GDE tune. See http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... how/4.page for kit details including how to install.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:19 pm

MRausch82: You almost certainly do not have a turbo problem. As was already mentioned, it is probably one of the CAC hoses. When I say almost certainly, I mean like 99% certain. This time of year you will need a garage and an hour or two to remove both hoses if you dont have particularly flexible arms. I've had the 2nd generation hoses for more than 100K miles and they haven't given any indication of weakening or sweating oil.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:11 pm

nursecosmo wrote:

MRausch82: You almost certainly do not have a turbo problem. As was already mentioned, it is probably one of the CAC hoses. When I say almost certainly, I mean like 99% certain. This time of year you will need a garage and an hour or two to remove both hoses if you dont have particularly flexible arms. I've had the 2nd generation hoses for more than 100K miles and they haven't given any indication of weakening or sweating oil.

I have the 2nd generation hoses with the orange inner layer. I checked them and they seem to be in good shape.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 2:28 pm

Sorry, I reread your initial post and see that you get the sound when coming off of the pedal. How much end play do you have in the turbine shaft?

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:42 pm

End-to-end play isn't the problem, but there should be just the tiniest amount of that. What wrecks the turbo is side-to-side play, when the bearing is eaten out from the inside by the steel shaft. Thankfully, the bearing is soft brass, so this is a normal failure mode and can be rebuilt if caught early enough.

Pull the airbox hose and feel the end of the shaft with your fingers. If it moves side-to-side more than the tiniest amount (like a sheet of paper thickness) think about rebuilding that turbo.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 7:04 pm

geordi wrote:

End-to-end play isn't the problem, but there should be just the tiniest amount of that. What wrecks the turbo is side-to-side play, when the bearing is eaten out from the inside by the steel shaft. Thankfully, the bearing is soft brass, so this is a normal failure mode and can be rebuilt if caught early enough.

Pull the airbox hose and feel the end of the shaft with your fingers. If it moves side-to-side more than the tiniest amount (like a sheet of paper thickness) think about rebuilding that turbo.

There is a little play, not enough for the fins to hit the housing. My turbo diesel silverado was far worse and that turbo never gave me a bit of trouble. What about getting a reman unit?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:22 pm

MRausch82 wrote:

geordi wrote:

End-to-end play isn't the problem, but there should be just the tiniest amount of that. What wrecks the turbo is side-to-side play, when the bearing is eaten out from the inside by the steel shaft. Thankfully, the bearing is soft brass, so this is a normal failure mode and can be rebuilt if caught early enough.

Pull the airbox hose and feel the end of the shaft with your fingers. If it moves side-to-side more than the tiniest amount (like a sheet of paper thickness) think about rebuilding that turbo.

There is a little play, not enough for the fins to hit the housing. My turbo diesel silverado was far worse and that turbo never gave me a bit of trouble. What about getting a reman unit?

The larger the turbo the more play, a simple law of physics. That is why your Silverado turbo has/had more play, it is supposed to have more play because it is larger.
Another thing one can do to make the turbo last longer is avoid the 0W-40 oil and go with at least the 5W-40 synthetic (I use 10W-40 Amsoil AMO). Oil that is too thin will not allow the turbo bearings which float in the housing bore and are pinned to prevent rotation to have the proper cushion effect to dampen out any vibrations of the turbo shaft. When the oil pressure hits the floating bearings and shaft, the clearance tightens up, but there is no way to grab the turbine shaft when it is running, even at idle to verify.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:38 pm

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtoca ... 0119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:12 pm

jlgail4309 wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

Have you dealt with these guys? They have a new and a reman unit and besides the core charge they are the same price. I may go this route if I decide that I need one.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:50 pm

About the oil... Any xW-40 oil becomes the same 40 weight after the temperature rises above the cut-off point. IIRC, that is something like 0 degrees F. So the winter weight doesn't matter as such to the thickness. Once the engine is running, the oil warms up and is a 40 weight.

The play in the shaft side to side is the big concern, and the thickness of the oil is as well. The passages in the turbo around the bearing are amazingly small, about the thickness of a pin. The oil cushion around the center shaft is about half that thickness. Your oil change interval and the cleanliness of your oil is VERY important for this turbo. I wouldn't push the change interval past 6k, and ALWAYS use the best synthetic oil you can find, diesel rated.

As for the cost of a turbo, rebuilt turbos are not available from Garrett. If you talk to your local Bosch Injector service shop, they might already be a Garrett distributor or can direct you to one. My local South Florida ADS (Association of Diesel Service) / Bosch shop found me a brand-new turbo from Brazil for $1080 a few months ago. That was without any core charge.

Garrett does not offer parts either, but if you want to replace the main journal bearing, have a search for my thread called "turbo rebuilding might just be possible" and you will find my write up and a link to the parts kit that I used. $70-odd dollars seems a decent gamble if you want to try rebuilding it yourself, it isn't that difficult and all it requires is basic tools. I don't know if I mentioned in the writeup, but the compressor wheel is reverse-threaded. Hold it with a towel when you unlock it (righty-loosey) and you won't cause it any damage.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:39 am

geordi wrote:

About the oil... Any xW-40 oil becomes the same 40 weight after the temperature rises above the cut-off point. IIRC, that is something like 0 degrees F. So the winter weight doesn't matter as such to the thickness. Once the engine is running, the oil warms up and is a 40 weight.

The play in the shaft side to side is the big concern, and the thickness of the oil is as well. The passages in the turbo around the bearing are amazingly small, about the thickness of a pin. The oil cushion around the center shaft is about half that thickness. Your oil change interval and the cleanliness of your oil is VERY important for this turbo. I wouldn't push the change interval past 6k, and ALWAYS use the best synthetic oil you can find, diesel rated.

As for the cost of a turbo, rebuilt turbos are not available from Garrett. If you talk to your local Bosch Injector service shop, they might already be a Garrett distributor or can direct you to one. My local South Florida ADS (Association of Diesel Service) / Bosch shop found me a brand-new turbo from Brazil for $1080 a few months ago. That was without any core charge.

Garrett does not offer parts either, but if you want to replace the main journal bearing, have a search for my thread called "turbo rebuilding might just be possible" and you will find my write up and a link to the parts kit that I used. $70-odd dollars seems a decent gamble if you want to try rebuilding it yourself, it isn't that difficult and all it requires is basic tools. I don't know if I mentioned in the writeup, but the compressor wheel is reverse-threaded. Hold it with a towel when you unlock it (righty-loosey) and you won't cause it any damage.

I agree on the oil... It's a 40w when warmed up. I change it every 4-5k and do not go any further. I use pure one filters as well. As for the turbo, what did you ask for when you ordered it? Did you say you needed one for a liberty CRD or did you have to give a model/part number?

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:56 am

MRausch82 wrote:

jlgail4309 wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

Have you dealt with these guys? They have a new and a reman unit and besides the core charge they are the same price. I may go this route if I decide that I need one.

I have not but it would be worth so research!! The guy below said you could rebuilt it your self. I just don't have time to rebuilt anything. Time worth the same as gold. Any one making more time I'll take it.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:57 am

jlgail4309 wrote:

MRausch82 wrote:

jlgail4309 wrote:

http://www.turbochargerpros.com/addtocart/2006_Jeep/Liberty/Turbocharger/40-30119.html#
$1200. for a turbo .

Have you dealt with these guys? They have a new and a reman unit and besides the core charge they are the same price. I may go this route if I decide that I need one.

I have not but it would be worth so research!! The guy below said you could rebuilt it your self. I just don't have time to rebuilt anything. Time worth the same as gold. Any one making more time I'll take it.

I found a new Garrett unit for $1150 or so... I may just do that. I too do not have the time. Anyone know what gaskets and part numbers I need for a turbo replacement? I may take it somewhere for install when the time comes...

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:01 pm

Before dropping a K or better on a turbo, I'd make absolutely sure that this is your issue. Based on your description, I don't think that the turbo is your problem. How much boost are you getting? Have someone stand on the brakes and then put some juice to the accelerator while you search for a boost leak. Since you are getting the whooshing sound when letting off of the accelerator, you could have an exhaust leak on the back side. Another possibility is a sticking vane actuator but if it is, you should get a code for over/under boost.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:19 pm

nursecosmo wrote:

Before dropping a K or better on a turbo, I'd make absolutely sure that this is your issue. Based on your description, I don't think that the turbo is your problem. How much boost are you getting? Have someone stand on the brakes and then put some juice to the accelerator while you search for a boost leak. Since you are getting the whooshing sound when letting off of the accelerator, you could have an exhaust leak on the back side. Another possibility is a sticking vane actuator but if it is, you should get a code for over/under boost.

I am not sure that it is my issue or even a problem, what I do know is this: there are no leaks, oil, boost (intercooler hoses or the such), and no CEL other than for the ORM, which I read the codes this AM). With the air intake hose off, it is louder when it spools down, like it is dumping boost (wastegate type of noise), but when it spools, it has the normal whistle, no abnormal noises. I have done the power brake method and it'll light the back tires still, the turbo is definitely doing its job.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:29 pm

There is only one gasket in the turbo system, between the manifold and the turbo. It is metal, I have reused mine each time without any issues to speak of. No exhaust leaks have shown themselves on the manifold anywhere.

~$1100 is a good price for that turbo. I agree with doing a thorough check for boost leaking while under power... But do it with the truck in REVERSE only please!!!! I did a brake stand on my CRD just this morning while checking something, and the diesel is so strong that the brakes were *just barely* holding against the power. I shifted my foot a little and I could feel it wanting to go... And I was only at about 2000 RPM. Max torque. You don't want to be in front of it if it wants to lurch forward.

There will be no difference in the power output of reverse or first - They are the same gear ratio.

Source for turbochargers?

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