Considering buying a Jeep Cherokee/Wranlgler

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:26 pm

So I got to thinking, I really do not need another car loan payment. If the insurance company totals my Jeep Liberty or if they fix it and I sell it, I want something without a payment. If at all possible. There is a Jeep Cherokee in town for under $3,000 asking price. I'm going to go look at tomorrow or Friday. There are also a few Wranglers (TJ & YJ) that I like, but I would need a small loan with those. What should I be looking for in both the Cherokee and Wranglers? Is there a certain point in mileage that I should stay away from? Say 120,000 to 160,000 miles? I'm looking to stay away from rebuilt titles and already lifted Jeeps. Regardless of which Jeep I get, it's getting lifted and modded. I still have little over half gallon of Herculiner to use. :-)

lfhoward · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:51 pm

I had a 2000 Cherokee before my KK. I bought it with 80K on the clock, and drove it until the accident at 127K. I loved that Jeep. It was awesome, and I never once got stuck (even on some pretty crazy trails and winter storms). But it did have a lot of things go wrong, and I ended up doing a ton of repairs after 90K or so. I could do a lot of them myself by ordering parts from Morris 4x4 center and TeamCherokee.com, but there was also major suspension work (sagging leafs and blown shocks) and engine work. I am on a first name basis with my mechanic now. ;-)

The worst problem was that the cylinder head cracked at about 126K miles, which I got fixed 10 days before it was totaled! The 2000-2001 (last year they made them) XJ's are susceptible to the cylinder head cracking issue, which if not fixed promptly will eat up the bearings in your engine as radiator coolant mixes with the oil. The telltale sign is coolant disappearing slowly over 1-2 weeks, with no apparent leak. Jeep never recalled the XJ's about this, but based on a poll I created on CherokeeForum.com about 10-15% of owners reported having this happen with their '00-'01's. The same is true for the 4.0 engines in Wranglers from 2000-2002-ish? So, if you're going for an XJ, try a '97-'99 model if you can find one at low mileage, and if it's a TJ, try to get an '04-'06 because by then Jeep had fixed the cylinder head issue. The XJ's newer body style and interior begins with the '07 model year.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:55 pm

lfhoward wrote:

The XJ's newer body style and interior begins with the '07 model year.

I meant '97!

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:00 pm

This XJ I'm going to look at is a '99. It's black too. For what they're asking, I would have enough money leftover to fix the problems and starting buying lift parts, tires etc... :-)

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:02 pm

If I bought a TJ, I would have to get a loan. :-(

There is a LWB '06 TJ Rubicon for $20k (roughly) white with white hardtop and all the goodies. It's automatic and low miles. Not sure on year though. Here is a picture of it. I could afford it but I'd be broke!!!

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:17 pm

SO worth it! i'd rather be broke and have an awesome jeep then a lot of money :BANANA:

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:42 pm

That white LWB TJ Rubicon is in Louisville, which is a good two hours away. We shall see what happens tomorrow. I am just thankful my KJ is still somewhat driveable and still runs. I have passed up a weeks worth of good weather to go off-roading because of this accident damage to the KJ. :-(

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:48 pm

This LWB TJ is at the same dealer as the white LWB TJ Rubicon. Again, I would feel more comfortable with a cheap XJ. BUT I want a reliable Jeep. I know anything can happen no matter how old or how new of Jeep, but atleast with a newer Jeep I wouldn't be running into problems more often...HOPEFULLY!!! I have also considered getting another Liberty, but in the Renegade package.

Grannysgoat · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:49 pm

blackwidowkj06 wrote:

If I bought a TJ, I would have to get a loan. :-(

There is a LWB '06 TJ Rubicon for $20k (roughly) white with white hardtop and all the goodies. It's automatic and low miles. Not sure on year though. Here is a picture of it. I could afford it but I'd be broke!!!

You can get one for a lot less than that if you are not in a big hurry and take your time and don't impulse buy. The only long wheelbase (they are LJ's) models are 2003-2006. The extra 15" really makes a difference in the cargo area plus you have a couple of inches more room in the back seat. I looked for 6 months before I got the deal I wanted on mine.

Bummer on your Liberty and hope you are OK. Your insurance company will probably fix it if it doesn't cost more than maybe 50-60% of it's wholesale value. What did they have to say regarding the repairs? Or are they making you do all the work for them?

gg

lfhoward · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:14 pm

blackwidowkj06 wrote:

This LWB TJ is at the same dealer as the white LWB TJ Rubicon. Again, I would feel more comfortable with a cheap XJ. BUT I want a reliable Jeep. I know anything can happen no matter how old or how new of Jeep, but atleast with a newer Jeep I wouldn't be running into problems more often...HOPEFULLY!!! I have also considered getting another Liberty, but in the Renegade package.

Both of those LJ/TJ's look awesome. After getting my '08 KK this year to replace the :dead:

XJ, I am really appreciating not having to fix something new every month. It was fun to a degree; I learned so much about how things worked! But there is something to be said for a relatively new vehicle. Of course, now I have a car payment!

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:46 pm

Grannysgoat wrote:

blackwidowkj06 wrote:

If I bought a TJ, I would have to get a loan. :-(

There is a LWB '06 TJ Rubicon for $20k (roughly) white with white hardtop and all the goodies. It's automatic and low miles. Not sure on year though. Here is a picture of it. I could afford it but I'd be broke!!!

You can get one for a lot less than that if you are not in a big hurry and take your time and don't impulse buy. The only long wheelbase (they are LJ's) models are 2003-2006. The extra 15" really makes a difference in the cargo area plus you have a couple of inches more room in the back seat. I looked for 6 months before I got the deal I wanted on mine.

Bummer on your Liberty and hope you are OK. Your insurance company will probably fix it if it doesn't cost more than maybe 50-60% of it's wholesale value. What did they have to say regarding the repairs? Or are they making you do all the work for them?

gg

I don't have time to wait on the right Jeep to show up. Let alone wait on a body shop to fix the Jeep, if the insurance company decides to fix the Jeep.

Right now I am finishing up college and will be done completely the first week of May. We don't have another spare vehicle for me to drive. If they fix the Jeep, I hope they give me a check to fix it. I can replace the tailgate myself but not the gaps in the Jeep. Plus an alignment and carpet put in the Jeep, it would be good to go. The gaps in the Jeep is something I would say in the sale of my Jeep. I already have a friend who possibly wants the Jeep. Since I am a woman, the dealerships will most likely not budge on the price of a Jeep. That is why I have close friends who are guys that can haggle with the price.

The insurance adjuster comes out tomorrow to look at the Jeep. I owe $3,900 last time I checked and the Jeep isn't worth over $10,000 (stock value). I honestly believe if it weren't for my Jeep being lifted and the TJ bumper on the back, things would have been much different. Good thing I decided to put my spare back on the day before the wreck.

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:49 pm

lfhoward wrote:

blackwidowkj06 wrote:

This LWB TJ is at the same dealer as the white LWB TJ Rubicon. Again, I would feel more comfortable with a cheap XJ. BUT I want a reliable Jeep. I know anything can happen no matter how old or how new of Jeep, but atleast with a newer Jeep I wouldn't be running into problems more often...HOPEFULLY!!! I have also considered getting another Liberty, but in the Renegade package.

Both of those LJ/TJ's look awesome. After getting my '08 KK this year to replace the :dead:

XJ, I am really appreciating not having to fix something new every month. It was fun to a degree; I learned so much about how things worked! But there is something to be said for a relatively new vehicle. Of course, now I have a car payment!

The most valuable advantage of a newer vehicle is dependability. The most valuable advantage of a cheap Jeep is no car payment. :-)

Cobalt-60 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:24 am

The 1999 XJ Cherokee is considered by many to be the most desirable year in terms of equipment, reliability, and modification for off-roading -- 4.0L H.O. engine, HP Dana 30 front axle, non-ABS 29-spline Corporate 8.25" rear axle, NP231/242 transfer cases, and the bullet-proof AW-4 transmission. There is also the (rare) possibility of it having the Cherokee Special Service Package, or 3.73 gears (Tow Package or UpCountry Package) already.

Some 1987-90 came with a rear D44, but these came with the Renix (non-H.O.) 4.0L engine.

My buddy Bill has a '94 XJ that has 240K miles on it and the engine has never been rebuilt Runs just fine, He has had it since 40K miles.

I say go with the XJ.

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:37 am

Thanks Colin. Considering I most likely will not be able to afford a newer Jeep, the Cherokee is the best bet. All that stops me from getting it is mileage and how it runs. Today is deciding day for me. The insurance adjuster comes out to my house today. Ugh

CoopaTroopa · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 4:45 pm

Id go cherokee because those things last FOREVER, parts are a bit cheaper seing as the vehicle its self can be had for such a low cost, and they are just absolute trail beasts.

dillonjm · **Joined:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:50 pm **Posts:** 13

Given the constraints you've voiced about not wanting loans, etc. I'd look into a late 90's Cherokee.

Wranglers are overpriced, and that comes from a guy who loves them. You can get a comparable Cherokee for about half what the Wrangler costs.

The 4.0's are great motors, properly maintained can easily pass 200-250k, some are still trucking along running past 300k on the YJ boards. The AX-15 or AW-4 that the cherokees in this year range had are both great transmissions too. Pair that with the HP30 and 8.25 and you've got a reliable drivetrain. I'd check the standard stuff, smooth shifting easy to get into 4wd etc.

That's the direction I'd go. :2cents:

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:00 pm

Thank you to all who have replied. I will use it in my next Jeep purchase. I have decided that the best thing is to buy a Cherokee. Can someone make a basic checklist of things I should check when looking for a Cherokee? Which transmission is most sought after in the Cherokee?
The thing about getting a different Jeep is starting over on learning a new vehicle. :-(

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:08 pm

like they said, 99 would be the best if you can afford it. avoid 00-01 due to the engine issues. the AW4 is the desired auto transmission and the ax-15 is the desired stick tranny. a lot of it was covered in a post above mine.

Cobalt-60 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:52 pm

Ok, here is the break down (you will see why 1999 is the "cherry" year!!!)

4.0L H.O. engine (1987-90 = non-HO, 1991-1999=HO, 2000-2001=HO w/ cracking heads)

Aisin [READ: Toyota] AX-15 5-speed Manual (1989-99, 2000-2001=NV3550 [which actually is a heavier truck MT used in the Dodge Dakota and 1500/2500 but it is mated with the crap 4.0 above!!!]

Aisin AW-4 4-speed Automatic (1987-2001) = bullet proof!!!

High Pinion D30 reverse cut 27 spline front axle (1996-1999, 2000-2001=LOW PINION D30 standard cut 27 spline, 1984-96=High Pinion D30 reverse cut 27 spline w/ CV joints or weak U-joints)

Chrysler (Corporate) non-ABS 29-spline 8.25" rear axle (Late 1996-01, 1991-1996=Chrysler non-ABS 27-spline 8.25" or 1990-96 Dana 35)

NP231 "Command-Trac" Transfer Case (1987-2001) = bullet proof!!!

NP242 "Select-Trac" Transfer Case (1987-2001) = Pretty Darn good too!!!

Stock gearing was 3.07 w/ the MT&4.0 or 3.55 w/ the AT&4.0 (3.73 gears w/ the Tow Package or UpCountry Package)

Sub-models:

SE - 1994-2000
Pioneer - 1984-1990
Pioneer Olympic Edition - 1988
Chief - 1984-1990
Sport - 1988-2001
Country - 1993-1997
Classic - 1996, 1998–2001
Limited - 1987-1992, 1998–2001
Laredo - 1985-1992

A 1997-1999 Sport, Country, Classic or Limited are really what you are looking for with 1999 being the best choice.

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:12 pm

Whoa!!!!
Thanks Colin and the guy above him who commented lol. This really helps out a lot. Especially Colin's response. :-)

So I went and took a peek at that one XJ. It was a '00 not a '99 like I thought. I thought, "Oh well! Let's see if they posted mileage."
When I saw the mileage I cringed! Almost 200,000 miles. Guess I will be looking again. I have time to look too. Here is a picture of it...

The adjuster came out today and said he would have the estimate to the insurance company by Monday. So I'm hoping the insurance company contacts me middle of next week to settle the claim. The adjuster did write...something frame something. The insurance company could be like ewww frame damage? Here's a check for the blue book value. Or they could send the check to get it fixed. Either way I will be happy, but I'd really like to be in a different Jeep by the end of April. That is when my April loan payment is due on the Jeep. We shall see what happens...

Btw, I should be buying my lifer membership for LOST soon. It would be nice to put the lifetime member sticker on my new Jeep. :-)

Think I will wait after LJS to do so

Considering buying a Jeep Cherokee/Wranlgler

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