Lifting the CRD

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:29 am

Look up some of TonyCRDs posts
he's lifted his about as much as possible without going to a full blown kit from JBA

Pippobug · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:12 pm

tommudd wrote:

Look up some of TonyCRDs posts
he's lifted his about as much as possible without going to a full blown kit from JBA

Just one thing, I have the same CRD as Tony, ours is a 2.5 not a 2.8 and i think there is a difference with the front haftshafts, we actually can lift a little bit more without to much of a problem. I am still sitting at 22 inc infront with OME 790 and Boiler 3/8 top plate and no clevis rings. You might not be able to do the same on a CRD 2.8 with problems with the halfshafts.

Fil.

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2012 1:02 pm

i'm at 22inches all around, hub to the bottom of the flares. no binding issues as far as i've discovered. my CV's are bad, but thats due to having 165k miles on them.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:05 pm

Hey Denver -

Al's CV shafts will allow more of an angle - but by the same token -
some of what you're removed is the strength of the CV - so I would expect them to break easier.

(no experience on that)

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:21 am

irollgen- Mine is 20" from hub to the bottom of the fender. My tires are 255-75-17. I have trimmed a little of the front arb bumper and and a little on at the back of the fender well as well. They touch and I mean just touch at full turn. On pavement. So I realize this won't work offroad, but I feel like 2 inches would make all the difference. What are your thoughts on that?

ATXKJ- If decide to lift more that the 2.5" then I will be planning on changing out at least the driver side cv possibly the passenger side too ($500 each), replacing the OME 927's that the last owner put in with 790's(I will be doing this no matter what else I do or don't do $200), and swapping the Upc's with the jeepin by al a arms($400). All that I am fine with. I don't have a ton of money but I saved for a while To buy the jeep and got a better deal on it and the car I sold than I had budgeted for. Plus I had saved to put the arb and a few other things that were already done that I don't have to worry about now. So short story long, I could shell out enough to do all that, and from the research I have done, be doing it all right. That being said I cannot afford to spend $2000 more on it and I am not looking for a money pit right now. The jeep runs great. Had all the fluids changed right after I bought it and the mechanic just raved on how great she was running. We are at 91k miles and plan to do the timing belt and water pump at 100. But other than that I hope to not have any problems with her. I realize you aren't a psychic and can't tell me with certainty what will happen, but are there any other problems that might arise from picking her up more than the 2.5" max of about 4"? Drive train or front differential? The dana 30 I read is great and can easily push up to 33's but would it screw with that?

Sorry I ramble so much. I have this just going through my head all day. I've wanted the crd so long and am so happy with her and I just worry I am going to screw her up. At the same time I live in the mountains and want to take her to her full potential (rough trails- not hardcore rockcrawling). So any advice you guys can give me about anything would be much appreciated as well.
Thanks

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:33 am

to get mine to where it is, i did 790's, with a 1/2 inch top plate and a 3 ring clevis lift. and the rear has 3 top iso's(2 extra on top). it sits level all around.

i'm running 265-70-16's on 16x8 procomp rims with 4.25 backspacing. i get rubbing when turning on the back of the fenderwell, but nothing major. the rear completely stuffed rubs a little, but it's never ripped off a flare and it hasnt cut up my tires at all. when these tires go out i'm gonna go to 265-75-16's on these rims and put extended bumpstops in. hopefully my rock lizard bumper comes eventually.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:26 pm

Sorry guys. Total noob to all this. I grew up in mississippi, where it is flat and muddy. Not steep and rocky. Back home I had a 79 cj-7. The v-8 and stock it fit tires that never gave me any problem in the mud. Now with the rocks on trails out here and the liberty not being as tall, I feel the need for the lift and what not. And then I got these tires from a friend and would love to not spend 2k on smaller ones. That is all said to preface my question of... What is a iso lift? A clevis lift puts washers under the strut above that metal fork to push it upwards a little, Correct? If so, is that safe?

And the rock lizard Rear bumper? The komodo? That thing is so nice. I hope to get one eventually myself.

Again Thanks for all your help guys. I'm so happy that Al Gore guy invented the internet. I'd be lost with it.(no pun intended)

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:29 pm

Also just saw that rock lizard is coming out with a completely bolt on SFA kit. That is kind of exciting. That would alleviate all the issues with lifting would it not?

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/L ... t_kits.htm

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:04 pm

If you don't mind forking over $10/20K+. And it says 'coming soon', but it has been like that since the last 2 or 3 years. The only RLF SFA is TJKJ's, the orange KJ in the picture.

BTW, they bandaided your lift. In order to keep the nose up with the ARB on they fitted some daystar look-a-like pucks (on the wrong side of the coilover).

Then..you cannot have 17" rims of a Rubicon. The only rims that fit on a KJ are the TJ's and those are 16". Unless yours came of a JK and you have some kind of 5x4,5 to 5x5 converter, which will make tire rub worse then it probably already is.

If you put 32" tires on a KJ, you'd better stock up on front diffs, because they will explode anytime you try to wheel the mall. And you need to get rid of the 3.55 gearing. The lowest you can get is 4.10. Unless you get a steel front diff from JBA, $1500...

So..get wise, spend your money once and be happy. Stick with 245/75/16 and get OME 790, a topplate and a clevis lift. Then you don't need any of the $$$$ stuff.

irollgen4s wrote:

gonna go to 265-75-16's on these rims

Prepare $$$ for a 4.10 gear job

irollgen4s wrote:

and put extended bumpstops in.

What you should have done already

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:16 pm

Why plan for a new gear job? From what I have read the stock dana 30 in the 2005 and 6 CRD is fine to run up to 33" tires. "Easily" it says. And from what I understand, the rubi d44 is not really much better that a d30. And is the tjkj guy not the rock lizard guy? It looks like the same jeep and they are both from the springs.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana30.htm

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:25 pm

Because we don't have a D30. We have a D30A (aluminium).

And it will definitly never ever work with 33" tires. Have a look under your libby again, we have IFS.

TJKJ is a good friend of RLF and helps him out on projects.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:35 pm

Yes i realize we have IFS. Why else would I have asked about the SFA swap by RLF? But anyway I'm not trying to fit 33's. Just 32's. Is that going to cause drivetrain issues and what not? Seems like I see quite a few people running 265/75/16's. That's only .41" smaller than the 255/75/17. So .205" difference all the way around. 5mm difference.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:39 pm

I still don't get how you have 17" rubicon rims.

Then: ok, sorry, I didn't mean to lecture you or push my opinion down your throat. I'm just writing down what works best on a CRD without spending a boatload of money. I've been fooling around with my KJ since 2004 and spend countless hours debating with Tommudd what if and if I do that and let's try this etc. I have taken the suspension apart at least 20 times (and installed lifts on other peoples KJ's) and used different brands stuff to lift it, like Tom did to his 3.7, so I think I know a thing or two about lifting a CRD. (and I am still not done experimenting, so stay tuned) DO NOT MIX DAYSTAR STUFF WITH OME, it doesn't work. Trust me, we tried.

The KJ CRD unfortunately has its limits, a 3" lift is about the max you can do to it for a reasonable amount of money. After that, every measly 1/2 inch will cost you an arm and a leg.

Here are a few pics of my setup, you can see that the tie rod angles are already a bit heavy and the clevis rubs the CV boot at full droop.

I do pretty crazy stuff with my KJ and with my 'tiny' 245/75/16 I do get tire rub every now and then due to the flexing in the silent blocks of the front and rear control arms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAPHWVZgP_A

Your KJ looks nice with the tires you have on there, but it will need more mods to make them work. As you can see in my pic, you need to stuff them in the wheel wells some times.

You can bumpstop the heck out of it but you will loose flex doing so.

See how close your rear tire is to the flare of the rear door? That will get even worse if you lift it more. So we are talking adjustable rear control arms (JBA has them) to get the axle back in place. It's all up to you buddy, we are here to help you, but how deep are your pockets?

And saying that 'everybody' is running 265/75/16.. yeah, maybe on a gasser....The biggest tire I have seen on a CRD is 235/85/16 and that was a tight squeeze. And maybe you don't need to re-gear, but it will sure help your MPG.

Anyway, sorry for the long story, get rid of the spacer and the 927's. Put on some 790's, a topplate and if needbe a clevis lift and see how you like it. The 790's make a world of difference, I know since I had the 927's and now 790's. Check if you have 947 or 948 rear springs, if it's 947 get 948's. Add rear upper isolators (1 or 2 per side) and you will see it levels out nicely

Side note..get a matching spare, or you will drive your ABS/BAS crazy if you ever need to use the one you have on there now.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:07 pm

There are a few of us who have pushed the limits and knows what works/what doesn't
Listen to Tony and you'll be good, don't listen and you'll keep throwing the $$$$ at it
Now after Tonys sermon all I can add is

AMEN

Rev. Mudd

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:09 pm

GRACIAS. That is exactly what I needed someone to say to me. BTW the rubi rims fit because of sprdertrax spacers. I just ordered new 790's from jeepin by al. By "get rid of the spacer" you mean that black thing at the top of my suspension assembly is a spacer? thank you for the explanation. When I ordered the springs I called marlon at JBA. He advised that if I want to do it and do it right buying their 4" lift with both new cv's is the only way to go. (about 5k) So I am going to take your advice. I think I may keep the rims. I like the little wider stance the spidertrax give her. so I figure maybe 245/70/17? sound like a good size?

Your jeep looks great. I don't think the 245's look small on her at all. I just got these tires and rims basically free and was hoping to just put money into making them fit as opposed to buying new ones that already fit. But it seems like that is not really realistic.

denvergrows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:20 pm

Also, I hear you on the spare and we will before we drive her around. Since we changed the tires to these we aren't driving it until we get the rubbing to stop. Funny thought though. a 225/75/16 spare with 3 32's. haha. I don't think I would find it so amusing if I found myself in that situation though. I will definitely get a spare. Anymore advice?

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:04 pm

Denver, 245/70/17 will give you 30.5" like my 245/75/16's, bummer is...it won't give you as much sidewall as a 4x4 deserves. I think that with your ARB bumper you can get away with 255/70/17 which is 31" and that would look awesome.

You could also try to sell the rims and tires and get a 16" set... :jester:

I am not a big fan of spacers or what you have size converters because they put a tremendous strain on the wheel bearing...besides that, as I already mentioned, the added backspacing makes your rubbing issues worse.

And with spacer I do mean the black rubber thing on top of your coil, that has to go.

If you are not up to doing it yourself (compressing the 790's is kinda scary), get in touch with RLF, he is only 68 miles away from you..TJKJ knows what he's doing and can answer any question you may have about lifting your KJ..don't ask anything about your CRD engine though..for that you need to visit the CRD-section....LOL

irollgen4s · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:41 pm

to clarify, i have extended bumpstops, but would need to get slightly more extended ones(which i have) to run the 265-75's. the 265-70's clear just enough with the frankenlift bumpstops that i can get away with it.

and yes i'd get 4.10's too.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:58 pm

Quote:

Soon to come
RL Rock monitor bumper

Really? That is the ugliest front bumper I have ever seen... Sorry to say so. The rear bumper is tha bomb but the front one?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:07 pm

denvergrows wrote:

BTW the rubi rims fit because of sprdertrax spacers.

FYI - that'll probably rip your fenders off
The Rubi's by themselves are a little wide but they have a reasonable backspacing
However the spacers push them into the fenders.
expect to do a lot of clearancing.

Also I have the 790's the top plate and a clevis lift and 265/75/16's
They're great on the highway - but if I was going to run them offroad -
I'd want lower gears (and more clearance)

before I go back to Moab - I'll probably go back to 245/75 or 265/70 - maybe even 31/10.5/15's - haven't decided yet.

Lifting the CRD

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