Injector Seal Leak

remwines · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:55 pm

My ’05 has significant exhaust blowing from the injector o-rings and seals. When I spray penetrating oil at the base of the injector with the engine running, it spews it right back. I attempted to remove the injectors without a puller starting with #1, but no luck. I tried all the usual methods, screwdrivers, pry bars, lightly tapping with a hammer and punch, but they are just stuck. Is there anyone who rents the VM9075A or similar puller? I already talked to Keith at GDE and he does not rent out a puller. Miller wants $430 for the VM9075A. I would even take it to the dealer, but I’m in California where the CRD’s were not sold, so the dealer doesn’t have the puller. None of the area’s diesel shops want to take on the job without a puller as well. Any suggestions?

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:59 pm

WHen I pulled mine (also an '05) there was quite a bit of dry stuff down there, mostly dirt I think.

I loosened the feed tubes and disconnected the wiring and overflow tube..

I was able to rotate the injector back and forth while raising it up to a point and then it would bind.

At that point I used the biggest screwdriver I had to gently lift on the injector about 1/4" away from the body at the point where the fuel enters the side (it angles up and away like a faucet). I could get enough leverage there to work it out while wiggling it with the other hand.

A little of the best penetrating oil you can find won't hurt either. I used Kroil - that stuff could separate a Swiss banker from his money... :mrgreen:

Got 'er done. Some patience and gentle persuasion may do it - hope you can avoid needing the pick up the tool!

Mark

remwines · **Posted:** Fri Mar 30, 2012 11:28 am

I did use PB Blaster but only let it soak in about 15 minutes. I just applied a fair amount of Kroil and will let it soak in a couple of days while waiting for parts from Chrysler. Unfortunately, the tip of one of the plastic fuel return tees broke off just above the o-ring when I removed it. They are very thin and I guess it was just brittle from age, heat and exposure to fuel. Luckily, I was able to fish the tip out of the injector. A new "fuel return pipe" assembly from Chrysler was over $50 plus expedited shipping

The up-side, I can now shift my attention to installing the new OME suspension

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:36 pm

Nice consolation prize! :rockon:

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:22 pm

If you still need to rent the puller send me a message.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:40 pm

He is on the road right now but tool rental is in the process of being handled.

Gokeeper · **Posted:** Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:44 pm

Good, Glad to hear it, Best of luck with the Job ( i know what a pain they can be sometimes)

remwines · **Posted:** Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:45 am

Thanks guys! Looking forward to getting that leak fixed and no more exhaust fumes in the cab. But for now, we'll be enjoying the nice weather at Sea World, San Diego :BANANA:

. Will be back to work on the Jeep in a few days.

remwines · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 1:27 pm

Got an injector puller and got all the injectors out. These were the cruddiest injectors that I have ever seen. The #1 and 4 injectors had solid caked soot from the seals to the top of the head. I couldn't believe how much of a pull it was to dislodge those two injectors. Injectors #2 and 3 came without much resistance. Cleaned up everything, reassembled and it runs great with no compression or fuel leaks.

What I found during this repair was the injector seal failures were likely caused by shoddy work by the dealership during a repair while under warranty. This happened before I was aware of the good information on LOST about the CCV oil and EGR soot issue causing MAP Sensor failure. Being in California with no experience with CRD’s, the mechanic had to rely on information from Chrysler’s ‘Star Mechanics’. For whatever reason, the Star Mechanic directed them to change the cylinder head cover/intake manifold due to the crud in the intake. The Service Manager had no good answer for why they could not just remove the original cover/manifold, clean it and reinstall it. I’m sure it was a few thousand dollars worth of parts and labor. This repair requires the removal of the injectors. Upon installing the new cover/manifold, the mechanic failed to install the injector plates into the cover. As I discovered while reading a different thread, the steel injector plates, which resemble small flat batteries, fit into recesses in the cover. Without the plates, the tips of the injector retainers dug into the aluminum cover over time and the required hold down pressure on the seals were lost. Thanks to LOST member ‘galatron’, I had new plates in a couple of days and was able to get it all back together quickly. So for those who have had the cylinder head cover/intake manifold removed at some point, look to make sure the plates are in place.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 2:27 pm

remwines wrote:

Upon installing the new cover/manifold, the mechanic failed to install the injector plates into the cover. As I discovered while reading a different thread, the steel injector plates, which resemble small flat batteries, fit into recesses in the cover. Without the plates, the tips of the injector retainers dug into the aluminum cover over time and the required hold down pressure on the seals were lost. Thanks to LOST member ‘galatron’, I had new plates in a couple of days and was able to get it all back together quickly. So for those who have had the cylinder head cover/intake manifold removed at some point, look to make sure the plates are in place.

I've had all of this stuff apart and I have no idea what you are talking about.......have any pictures?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 2:47 pm

The plates he and others are talking about are item #3 in Figure 14-420 of the 2006 parts book.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:46 pm

papaindigo wrote:

The plates he and others are talking about are item #3 in Figure 14-420 of the 2006 parts book.

part number 05093922AA

I still have no idea what that is.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:51 pm

They are steel - where the engine cover is aluminum. They are like a fulcrum point (e.g. lots of pressure) for the crow's foot that holds the injector down. Without them you can't reach and hold enough pressure on the injector to keep it from leaking past the copper washer at the tip of the injector where it meets the head.

Mark

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:56 pm

msilbernagel wrote:

They are steel - where the engine cover is aluminum. They are like a fulcrum point (e.g. lots of pressure) for the crow's foot that holds the injector down. Without them you can't reach and hold enough pressure on the injector to keep it from leaking past the copper washer at the tip of the injector where it meets the head.

Mark

Interesting, I never noted that part could come off separate.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The steel slugs are pressed into the manifold at the factory. They should not fall out unless the aluminum has warped slightly from vibration or heat. The aluminum is too weak to hold torque for long. The 40 pounds you save with aluminum heads is not offset by the durabilty gained with cast iron in my opinion. The automakers have a different goal vs. industiral diesel manufacturers.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:17 am

When I pulled the covers on mine I saw those things in the FSM and parts-fiche and briefly panicked before I figured out where they were hiding - had to clean it pretty well to spot them since they're so small. The documentation's perspective doesn't really prepare you for what you find - they're so small.. and rather obscure in that location.

They all stayed in, but I took my telescoping magnet for retrieving lost bits and tried lifting them - and they would pop out with only that much persuasion. If they were meant to remain an interference fit I suspect that the pressure exerted once the injector bolt is torqued probably pushes on the aluminum enough to loosen them. Heat and pressure pretty much prove aluminum to be plastic...

Should probably put a reminder somewhere for anyone removing the injectors to watch over those puppies.

Mark

remwines · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:31 pm

In my case, the dealer replaced the original cover with a brand new one. My guess is the new cover did not come with plates. They are a pretty obscure and probably looked like they were just part of the original cover. When I got the new plates, I had to press them into place with a punch and hammer. I doubt they will just fall out if you pull the cover and do the usual cleaning. My objective in reporting this was to give a heads-up to anyone who has had someone else pull the cover who may not be aware of these little plates. It's better to know now and have a chance to fix the problem before the seals are shot. It took about 20,000 miles before I started to notice the smell of exhaust in the cabin and it got worse over time.

I think I have a picture in another computer of a new plate after it was pressed into the cover. If it's there, I'll post it.

remwines · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:35 am

Sorry, I did not take a picture of the plate, but I do have an overhead shot of the head and cover after I pulled the #1 injector. It shows where the plate was supposed to be. And if I can just figure out how to insert the picture, I'll post it.

Injector Seal Leak

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