05 2.8 crd turbo problems

Tulmaster · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:31 pm

High can anyone offer suggestions on how to test the proper operation of my variable vane turbo. I dont think it is bad but am running out of options on what my loss of power problem is. already changed out the fuel filter head and assembly, added a low pressure fuel lift pump before the filter and replaced the egr. No codes yet but still dies, only under load conditions, and then starts and runs fine but no power at all.

Thanks people!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:59 pm

If you have the OEM turbo>intercooler>engine hoses have you removed them from the vehicle, pulled the woven covering, and inspected the bottom side for any sort of holes? If those hoses are soggy with oil they probably need replacing anyway; ideally in my opinion with Samcos. While you have them off check for a tear in the airbox to turbo hose on the bottom right in front of the turbo. Have you cleaned your MAP sensor. See Sir Sam's NOOB guide for how.

Per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment." Common fix or preventative for sticky vanes is an Italian tuneup (e.g. enthusiastic acceleration up a slight grade like an on ramp - repeat as needed)

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:19 pm

How many miles on your rig?

I'm concerned with the lack of codes - which would *seem* to rule out common issues with FCV, EGR, or Turbo - since any of those should create a discrepancy between MAF and MAP that would be flagged by the ECU.

Trying to think of what else it could be besides fuel. Even a plugged CAT wouldn't get better after a restart unless the restriction was throwing it into limp mode (should see a CEL, if so).

Which fuel/lift pump did you use? What is it rated to flow @ 10psi?

The Bosch CP3 on the engine flows more than you may think, since a portion of the fuel is used as coolant for the pump itself before returning to the fuel tank via the dedicated return line.

Does the problem fail every time? (or just some times)

I'm thinking you might try bypassing the fuel head completely (for a brief test) and inserting one of those small in-line fuel filters from the auto parts store that cost less than $5...

If it fails with the OEM filter head every time, but works with the inline filter, this may help you narrow things down.

Filter-wise the fuel already in the tank should be fine; it's been recirculating through the head for some time now. The cheap in-line is just a safety measure for the test.

If the symptoms improve but it still acts up - I'd confirm that the fuel pump can sustain sufficient volume (lph or gpm) at 8-10psi to satisfy the needs of the CP3. One way to tell what the requirements are would be to see if anyone here knows the flow-rate of the stock filter...?

If the new lift pump cannot sustain the flow-rating of the OEM filter at 10psi - it's not sufficient for this application. It also needs to allow the fuel to be pulled through (bypass) if it fails (e.g. power removed).

?

Mark

Randy B · **Posted:** Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:48 pm

Does the loss of power come on when at operating temp? I had a clogged cat that the engine would run fine until it got to operating temp, then loss of power, would die. Cool down would start and run fine, until up to operating temp then die again. The heat would expand the guts of the cat and choke the engine. But that was years ago and can not remember if it threw a code. Just a thought.

hucorey · **Joined:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:29 am **Posts:** 378

Does it smoke more than normal under a load? Could be a bad injector or two?? Just a thought.

Tulmaster · **Posted:** Thu Apr 26, 2012 6:45 pm

Okay, thinking back I feel that my loss of power started several months ago and I thought it was bad fuel filters so replaced them and problem usually went away, however one time I was on a trip and after a couple hundred miles of running fine I stopped for fuel and right after that had a much longer lived problem. fuel filter change did not cure the problem. I found that yes it did tend to run better cold as the problem got worse, power loss would occur after just a couple miles. I was getting P0299 and P0401 codes, EGR and low turbo boost. I did replace the EGR clean all the sensors, checked the FAV and replaced the fuel filter head. Now the same problem continues but the only code I seem to get now is a P0093 for fuel leak. Presumably due to air in the fuel system from changing out the filter head. Now trying to think mechanically, if the Catalytic Converter were plugged it would get worse over time and cause back pressure that would kill the engine under any load. I don't really think the turbo is bad as I did not get one of the cac hose clamps tight and it built enough pressure to pop the hose off. Only thing I can think of now is to unbolt the Cat converter for inspection. Oh did I say it re starts and runs perfect as long as you don't put it under a load
Any thoughts?

Tulmaster · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2012 10:39 am

Oh, the electric fuel pump I mounted on the fuel filter head, bolt is rated at 10 psi, the gauge is mounted on the outlet side and maintains about 5-8 psi. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Mark

Hoosier CRD · **Posted:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:47 pm

Sounds like a clogged convertor to me too.

I doubt that you will be able to "unbolt" the cat; they are welded in place. Best to change one thing at a time to see what effect that change has.

BTW, do you have any of the GDE tunes? I highly recommend the Full Torque Eco-Tune. Hope this helps.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

05 2.8 crd turbo problems

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