We have discovered oil in the air hoses leading from the turbo unit to the EGR valve. So far the EGR along with sensors are fine. We do not have a mechanic that knows this vehicle, however, the one we are working with loves turbo diesels on other vehicles and is a trusted source. He has determined that there is a 16th of an inch play in and out on the unit and thinks it needs to be replaced.
Currently, we are unable to consider footing the bill of replacing the turbo unit (quoted at over $2500) and are looking for advice/other options to remedy this issue.

Is the Turbo unit really bad?

Has anyone removed the Turbo unit and just driven the CRD engine as is sans Turbo unit?

Anyone want this baby?

I'll let others comment in more detail on the play but:
1. of course there is oil in those hoses. Absent an elephant hose or similar mode there is and always will be oil in those hoses. It comes from the CCV, hockey puck on top of the engine, via the hose that enters the airbox to turbo hose right in front of the turbo; goes thru the turbo and turbo>intercooler>engine hoses to the intake and EGR.
2. fore and aft play is normal and within limits ok. side to side play is bad and only allowable in tiny tiny limits. I'll defer to others on how much fore and aft play is ok and how to measure it.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

All late model turbo diesels are the way you describe. Are you having any actual trouble with the Jeep???

_________________
'05 LIBERY SPORT CRD
ORM AND EHM
OPTIMA REDTOP
AMSOIL
REDNECK EXHAUST MODS
GDE HOT AND ECO FT TUNES
HUSKY MOLDED FLOOR LINERS

'99 F350 CCLB SRW 4X4
AMSOIL
BTS TRANS/TC
6.0L TRANS COOLER
FULL FORCE STAGE II INJECTORS
PHP CUSTOM TUNES 6POS SWITCH
AFE STAGE II CAI
4" SS TURBO BACK EXHAUST
BILSTEINS
X-CODE FRONT LEAF SPRINGS (OEM LEVEL KIT)

YOUR TURBO IS NOT BAD.

Let me repeat this in case you didn't hear it in the cheap seats:

YOUR TURBO IS NOT BAD.

As Papaindigo states, the oil is NOT from your turbo at all. A favored "diagnosis" by mechanics-without-a-clue is that "the turbo oil seals have failed and you need to replace the turbo" which is COMPLETE BULLSHIPT! The turbo does not have any oil seals as such, it is sealed by thrust bearings. That is why you can feel a slight end-to-end shaft play, but I would doubt it is that much as 1/16". No matter what - If the turbo is bad, YOU WILL KNOW IT QUICK. These do not fail politely, they start making scraping / squeaking / grinding noises, your power drops away, and you start fogging the road behind you with smoke.

The source of the oil in your hoses is from the CCV puck on top of the engine. Read through the NOOB GUIDE, and install an "Elephant Hose Mod" and you will be fine. The consequence of that oil in the hoses is that it will eventually eat through the hoses (Your airbox-to-turbo hose is probably already turned to mush) and when the boost pressure hits them while driving, eventually they will blow open a big hole.

Look at those boost hoses now. Are they "growing hair" from all the filth on the outside? That is because the boost pressure is physically FORCING the oil through the walls of the hose, accelerating the destruction. The oil gets pushed to the outside of the hose, creating a porous hose, and once it reaches the outside of the hose, catches any little bit of dust or dirt... "growing hair" on your hose.

You can't really clean them, the tiny holes are still there. If your hoses are FILTHY on the outside, they are already gone, and need to be replaced. SAMCO makes some great Silicone hoses for our Jeeps, or you can try at the dealer (or online) as there is supposed to be a new design of hoses for us that don't degrade. I like the SAMCO option.

What will all this cost you? $320 instead of $2500...

$300 (approx) for the SAMCO hoses...
$20 at Home Depot for some braided 3/4" vinyl hose and some zipties to make an EHM.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

My local dealer wanted to replace my Turbo last week also. The Engine light was on and loss of power. They told me the turbo was damaged and that was why it was not boosting.

Google pointed me to this forum and eventually I found the solution to the problem. It was the small solenoid next to the Vacuum Regulator. It is called the secondary runner valve.

That solenoid was also part of the quote to repair my Jeep. So if they replaced everything the Jeep should be fixed. a Cost of more the $3200 instead of only $65 for the faulty part.

So be careful. There are a lot of idiots out there

Thanks again for this forum.......

I will second what Geordi has stated.

If your Turbo is going or has gone, there's no denying it.

When it starts to go, you will notice whining / howling intermittently.

When it goes, you will hear a "Wham" or a "Bahm", and grinding noises, followed by an almost complete loss of power.

When mine went, I had all of these signs plus you could also hear the bearings clanking around inside.

Undeniable.

_________________
'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.

I agree. The oil in your intake duct is not from the turbo. The play described by the mechanic, while it seems high to me, is NOT the sort of play that causes problems. When these turbos fail, they do so rather abruptly, not slowly, and not with symptoms that are found beforehand. If your turbo DID start leaking oil into the intake, the first sign you'd have is engine runaway, not an oily hose.

As for driving it without the turbo, forget it. It wouldn't have enough power to get out of its own way. Finally, there is no earthly reason based upon just what you've told us for anybody to even consider ditching this vehicle. I don't know why the mech was poking around in there, but unless you've got some OTHER complaint, I'd tell him to get out of there. The situation is perfectly normal.

Great data point -
Thanks for the feedback

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

I have a good used working turbo for sale. I sold my second CRD and I don not think I will be needing it. let me know if you are interested.