Who here is using the JBA adjust a strut 4" lift?

j98me2 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:12 pm

Thoughts on ride quality, time, and any special tools required for installation would be greatly appreciated.

Mainly is it worth the cash because it is a pretty good chunk.

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:35 am

I have it. Save your coin. Nothing wrong with it but it sure is expensive.

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:40 am

Do you know is there anyone else with a 4" lift or how would I go about getting it up that much? I know everyone here is pretty happy the the Frankinlift, but I would like to a little higher, the cost difference is a lot so maybe it is not worth it.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:00 am

Don't get hung up on the numbers game of having 4 inches of lift etc
Go with what works good
For a little education stock after they lowered them you are about 19 inches from middle of wheel to bottom of flare. The way I do most all here is with 927 front springs, 1/4 inch top plate, 3/8 inch clevis and that will sit you at 22.50-22.75 so 3.50-3.75 inches of lift, combine that with a set of 245-75s and you're good to go Also its good to go with JBAs UCAs
Now you can go higher but will run into some spring contacting the A arms at times over 23.25 so then need to go with the full JBA kit which of course is more bucks
For me is it worth it to you to have that 1/2 inch more ?

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:23 am

Nah not for a half inch. Most of the Kits are in the 2" - 2.5" range so 2" is a fairly large difference, but not 2".

Also I like the Idea of just assembling the parts myself rather than a kit. I can just amass them and set them in the garage as I can afford it. Plus somethings like the rear shocks can be put on now to improve ride. Going to start with a throttle body and JTT air intake when I get paid next week.

Will I need cut CV's at that hight or can I get away with the stock ones for now?

Obviously this is my first time so thanks for all the help and advice.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:03 am

No cut CVs required if below 4-4.5 inches
Don't install the rear shocks since they are longer until lifted unless you go ahead and install the bumpstops as well
As I said the ones I do end up with 3.5 inchs at least and look good. I run over 4 inches but then I also have mine torn down quite often trying new things :lol:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:11 am

This is the last lift we did here
started out like this came in with a noise in the rear, found the shocks were busted/blown etc so he ordered a OME lift etc and then we lifted it

after the lift ( before alignment and new tires)

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:09 pm

Ok a little more education please.

This is what I have so far for parts
JBA UCA
OME948 H/D Rear Springs
OME 927 FRONT SPRINGS
BILSTEIN - Heavy Duty Front
BILSTEIN - Heavy Duty 2.5" Lift Rear
Tera Flex Bumb stop 3"

So three questions.
Where do I get a 1/4 inch top plate?
Does this all work together?
Do I need any thing else?

:?:

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:45 pm

JBA has top plates as well in 1/4 inch
Boiler used to be on here selling some 3/8 inch thick ones but I think he has pretty much backed out of the business right now

Rear bumpstops, two hockey pucks per side work great and are cheap drill down through the spring pad and bolt them in
Yes it all works together fine, lots of people have a bout the same setup and Ive done 21 that way

cgass · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:54 pm

And some upper rear iso pads. They can also be purchased from JBA

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:02 pm

Thanks for all the advice.

That comes out to like 1K for the parts I have listed. Even with the other few minor items, it is way cheaper the 4" JBA + CV's.

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:22 pm

Is this what I'm looking for?

http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-Strut_spacer ... t-684.aspx

I think I might just order a rear bump stop, may be easier than finding hockey pucks in texas in the middle of summer. Is there and advantage to the hockey pucks or just a nice functional cheep alternative?

j98me2 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:26 pm

And I guess one more question... for now at least. I don't think I have ever used so many question marks in my life.

Where does the rear get its height from? The front has the strut/spring, clevis lift, and the plate. Seems to me the rear just has the spring and shock.

Or is it because the rear already sits higher?

cgass · **Posted:** Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:19 am

j98me2 wrote:

And I guess one more question... for now at least. I don't think I have ever used so many question marks in my life.

Where does the rear get its height from? The front has the strut/spring, clevis lift, and the plate. Seems to me the rear just has the spring and shock.

Or is it because the rear already sits higher?

The spring itself is bigger. Plus if you add isos to the top that will give you more lift too.

j98me2 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:18 am

Quote:

Don't install the rear shocks since they are longer until lifted unless you go ahead and install the bumpstops as well

Will using the longer shocks on the stock suspension damage the shocks or will be I be ok as long as I install the bumbstops?

Reason I ask is the right rear shock is shot I think. I would rather buy and put on the pair I plan to use long term then buy an intermediate set. Though I guess I could just buy a pair of the cheapest ones I can find to ride on for a few months.

What would you guys recomend?

Who here is using the JBA adjust a strut 4" lift?

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