This past Wed I was driving home and had the button depressed to raise the drivers side rear window when I heard a very loud bang and the window stopped mid way up. I could hear the electric motor running but the window wouldn't move. Within a few miles the window slowly crept back down into the door where it remained until I got home.
I have two questions, A) is this an easy fix, could it just be that the glass slipped off the track? And B), how do I remove the panel on the door to get to the glass? I have an 04 Liberty Sport with close to 154,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance, Sam

A) yes and no. It's pretty easy, but it's probably not just the glass slipping off.
b) plastic pop-rivets around the perimeter of the bottom of the panel and a few phillips screws will get the panel off.

I used http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp13001.html as have a LOT of people on the board. The part it replaces is nylon and cracks after a few years or some arbitrary number of uses. it's where the mount on the window and the threaded rod that moves it up and down connect. The kit's pricey, but it'll never need another one. If you have a decent selection of tools and a clean space to work (I used my driveway and a flattened cardboard box to avoid scratching the window while out), it'll take you about an hour, perhaps a little more or a little less depending on your luck.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Thanks Dan, I intend to order the parts from Steiger and replace that crappy plastic!

The 04 and 05 are the same with respect to this part. Some thoughts:
1. the door panel is on there really tight. You can get the fasteners to start to pop loose using a fairly stiff metal narrow (1-1.5") putty knife to pry up on the lower rear corner. Keep a sheet or towel on the ground under the door as you remove the panel to catch any panel buttons or the rubber button bumpers that fall off during removal (they tend to roll and disappear if you don't)
2. the black goo that attaches the white inner panel liner to the metal door frame is sticky nasty black stuff but you can pull the liner loose easily enough although a razor blade is handy to slice that goo if it tends to want to stretch off with the liner. Be sure to have a place you can lay the liner, goo side up, where dirt will not get into the goo. FYI it will clean up IIRC with just mineral spirits.
3. IMPORTANT - the instructions speak to making sure the ball stud that the retainer clip fits over is perpendicular to the repair bracket. This is very hard to see but if not perpendicular the clip can pop off the ball or course after you get everything put back together. Solution; be sure that the top and bottom parts of the clip are equally engagaged on the bottom of the ball; if not bend stud and reposition.
4. the red fuzz that needs to be removed can be removed very easily with a wire wheel on a bench grinder or drill if the drill is held steady in like a vice and the work brought too it.

I bit the bullet and did all 4 of mine. Takes a bit over 1hr for the 1st door and about 45min @ on the others.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I can't complain, 8 year old vehicle with almost 154,000 miles, most of that long commutes. So far I have had to replace the ball joints and rear suspension arms, ( factory recall) and the motor for the rear wiper, still under warranty.