So I took the rear swaybar off recently in the garage. Just had to jack the KJ up and take one wheel off, 4 bolts and some jiggling and it was off. But then I go offroad and get a rear tire off the ground. I can't tell any difference. I go to a different area and get it even further off the ground, nothing. Doing a flex test on a rock, I can't go up any further than this:

My tires rub in the rear on the top side of the fender well linings, and a little near the same area but in towards the body (presumed sidewall rubbing, my Destinations' sidewall lugs don't help).
Here's the question: Is my KJ's flex limited, even with the sway-bar off, because of this rubbing? It would only make sense, I feel, but I want to make sure. I know bumpstops would help, but that would only stop the rubbing, and limit the flex. Correct me if I'm wrong, cause I want to get all the flex I can out my Lib and am tempted to rip out my fender-well linings and get out the rubbing undercoating spray, but don't want to regret it...How much extra room is behind the linings anyways? Any other options to help this rubbing, such as different BS rims? Does anyone's rig not rub ANYWHERE? If so, how did they achieve this?

Thanks in advance for any info!
Jared

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127390/14
2006 Kawasaki KLR650

If you bumpstop the rear you will limit the up travel that is causing the rubbing and still get the down travel out of the other side but will be limited by the lenght of the shock at full droop.

Your going to get some amount of up travel by removing the wheel liners but you'll still need to bumpstop unless the shocks are completly compressed before you have tire contact with the body.


I have the Rubion Express SuperFlex rear control arms and 1.5 "bumpstops and can see the difference in my down travel. I've still got the wheel liners installed but have no rubbing in back with skyjacker springs. The R.E arms have no provision for running the rear swaybar.

I think you'll find that the shock length (compressed and extended) is the major factor. Bumpstop to limit damage from up travel and control arms and no swaybar to get the most droop.


Contact Quinn and Heather ...they'll tell you exactly what you need.

http://www.boulderbars.com

Yes, I'm also not sure how removal of the rear sway bar would help. Even with no extended bumpstops, I can easily have one side was completely bottomed out and on the other side the shock fully extended.

As far as rubbing, just add some bumpstop or trim the plastic. I added some homade 1/2 bumpstops, because every so often I would just barely bottom out the shock. I don't want a whole 1.5". Then I just trimed and pushed the plastic back to stop as much rubbing as I could.

I have the Destination A/T's on, but went with the 265/75's. I know I'll rub in the back, and, if it need be, I'll be yanking out those liners. Why not, my fronts are already gone, along with the lower six inches of my front bumper.

It all depends on how much you want to hack things up. For me, it was hard at first, cause my Renegade is an 05, but now, if I need to cut it, I usually will, and my Jeep looks all the better for it.

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2005 Liberty Renegade Patriot Blue Pearl - 3.7L 4x4 - Offroad Package - Full Skids - Rock Lizard Skink Sliders - Frankenlifted - Spidertrax Wheel Spacers - Firestone Destination A/T's 265/75/16 - Sony Xplod w/ iPod setup - Trac Loc (coming soon)!!

"Any other options to help this rubbing, such as different BS rims?"

255/70-16's and longer shocks. BS will only make the problem worse because the tire has to go under the well to get the best flex. It also has to stop short of impact (stuffing) or it limits traction.

There is a mathmatical maximum for the liberty before you start imposing limits and safety problems.

I dont have a whole lot of knowlage about the KJ and how to make it flex more but the rear is about the same as a TJ just a 3 link not a 4 w/track bar (5 link) any way here is what i know about flex and traction and "one wheel peel"
for the most part and first your up travel should be stoped by you bump stop not by your tire hitting your iner fender when the tire hits any thing other than the ground it makes it that much harder to turn and with out a locker you will go no where,
no question, if you have a locker some thing will break probably some thing in the fender well so tire rub is bad
to get more down travel you will probably need longer shocks but use cation when you by them because acording to skyjacker ,wich is where most of this came from, bottoming out on your shocks could bend them they cannot support the weight of your rig. you will need to know how short the distance is when the axel hits the bumpstop between the uper and lower shock mount then buy the longest shock that, when fully closed, will still fit that space.
now the next problem will be that your lower control arms will bind up because they can only "twist" so much then your down travel stops so you will then need lower control arms with some kind of "flex" or "ball" joint kinda like the ones that you can buy at Rustys i think also the Skyjacker lowers for a TJ would work
after you change all that i dont know what will happen to the upper part of the 3 link maby nothing maby some thing bad?


now if you do go this route i would like to know how it all works out so when we lift the wifes KJ i will know if i should go this route or not i realy want to know now but she wont let me "fool" with her jeep

i know that on my TJ with out the lower flex joints but longer shocks aand shorter bump stops with 30's and a 2.5" Skyjacker spring lift i can flex with in centemeters of another TJ with 32's and a complete 3.5" lift with bupstops and the same length shocks as me so i know the formula works and i know that with new lower control arms i could out flex the same TJ

FYI just measured the TJ and the KJ
if you do go with new LCA's they will need to be adjustable
the TJ is 16" and the KJ is 17.25"
for got about the width at the "frame" and the axel will post up in 5 mins



ok the width is the same so i say go for it because the ones on the TJ make the KJ's look wimpy

If you are talking about the lower control arms, I know the ones in the libby are better built than the ones in the wrangler. The ones in the wrangler are stamped, are they not?

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-Atlantic Blue
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yes the TJ's oe lca's are stamped the ones on the KJ are not that much better just box tube but still thin compared to what is available after market

Just take it out, flex it out, get out, take the measuring tape out. You'll figure out whats right for your rig.

Oh yea, I know there is better aftermarket. I thought the stock control arms were fairly strong for stock though.

_________________
LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
Lost #007082
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepjeepster