$14,000 in repairs with junk aftermarket parts

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 8:00 pm

After a $14,000+ repair job I wanted to make damnsure a rock strike would not disable me again........

In this case, it meant I paid a fortune for Skidrow skidplates from Jeepinbyal. Unfortunately, they do not conform to the various components of the bottom of the Jeep. What does this mean? It means the skid plate is a long way away from some components and right up against others.....because it is FLAT.

When in 4wd, the vehicle makes a horrible clanking noise shifting from R to D - back & forth. This is because the engine rocks back & forth in its cradle and moves various componentry up & down which smacks onto the skid plate. This also produces a horribly loud rattling on rough roads.

This configuration worried me: Some of the components are so close to the skid plate...what happens when I strike a rock?

Well, that question was answered on a very familiar, tame logging road where I hit a 5" rock at low speed - something that never bothered the stock skid plate. The strike caused the ONLY dent in this new skid plate to raise the sheet metal up enough to smash up against the differential. Now the thing whirs loudly as the plate acts like a speaker. My only option is to take the POS off the car.

I bought two guards from Jeepinbyal: After a week went by and skidplate one was delivered (the front) i got a note saying they were going to build the tranny skid plate in "a week or two". Now, a month later, nothing. And 3 Emails later, nothing. No response regarding the missing product and no response regarding the poorly designed product.

What to do next?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:48 pm

I don't have the Skidrow - but I know at Moab - several other folks did - so in general I know they're skidplates are pretty strong,
and the flat is intended to help them slid over rocks-

However.....

the CRD does have the differential shifted a bit to make more room for the oil pan, so that could move it close to the skidplate.

and skidplates do add echo space so you heard the drivetrain a lot more.

if the stock skids were working - you could keep them - but mine weren't - they bent.

you can try getting some spacers, around the mounts just to move it so that it doesn't rub.

and some kind of Home Depot - fiberglass insulation would kill the noise - but soak up oil/water ect and make oil changes a mess.

and as for Al - if he had things in stock he ships pretty quick - although if it's not in stock - his communication is lacking....
but from what I've seen he does eventually ship them.......

(the v6 folks over in 4x4 might have some more suggestions)

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 05, 2012 3:40 pm

Thanks ATXKJ...

I understand being flat to slide over rocks.....but in this case I think it was a consequence of minimal tooling & design for shaping and forming the sheet metal.
I'll probably end up putting spacers on it and cutting out some areas where it is contacting the differential....perhaps spraying some urethane foam on it. I cannot recommend products that I have to rework to render acceptable - especially expensive ones.

cgass · **Posted:** Sun Aug 05, 2012 3:51 pm

KeighJeigh,
Where were you when this happened?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:20 pm

KeighJeigh wrote:

Thanks ATXKJ...

I understand being flat to slide over rocks.....but in this case I think it was a consequence of minimal tooling & design for shaping and forming the sheet metal.
I'll probably end up putting spacers on it and cutting out some areas where it is contacting the differential....perhaps spraying some urethane foam on it. I cannot recommend products that I have to rework to render acceptable - especially expensive ones.

They worked and fit flawless on my KJ.

All the skids will be flat(ish),you think they cost alot of $$$ being flat they would be double/triple the cost if formed.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:31 am

cgas, this happened yesterday up near one of the logging roads above Greenwater near Mt Rainier.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:47 am

tjkj2002, it is a design issue that may be more obvious because this is a CRD. But even with a gasser there is a major weakness with the design the way it is - which I partly fixed it today.....I will post the pics of the fixes later. Here is some of what I did:

* After using a hammer to pound it back into shape, I shimmed it 5/8" so it wasn't smashed up against my differential. It was obnoxiously loud driving down the road and was damaging the differential since it slammed it every time I shifted into reverse. (In a few short days of driving the bottom diff bolt was already rounded on one corner and the diff had large wear marks on it.)
* I drilled & tapped some holes around the large opening located near the front bend of the skid plate and then placed a section of 1/4" steel over it. Not sure what this big hole is for on the CRD as the drain plug is further back and not covered by this skid plate. (Thus why I need the tranny skid plate that takes off where this one leaves off.) Perhaps it gives access to the drain plug on a gasser? Either way, this large opening is the most commonly struck spot on my KJ and the rocks snag it because of its orientation to the angle of the ground. It is also a weak spot. With the strong, removable plate I placed over it, strength and rigidity is significantly improved.
* I coated the topside with an entire bottle of undercoating and then placed a thin sheet of dense urethane rubber on top of that in order to reduce the speaker effect.

It no longer clanks loudly when shifting from reverse into drive, it is no longer hitting the diff, doesn't rattle in 4wd and is no longer noisy going down the freeway. When I get the time, I will cut out the section around the differential and axle and build a a small, inverted ramp over them. This will give that area the strength and clearance it needs to withstand impact without smashing up against the very parts it is tasked with protecting. It will also allow me to gain back the 5/8" clearance I lost putting in the spacers.

As new, this product was incapable of working properly on my CRD. With the fixes, it is marginally useful. Thus, I cannot recommend this product.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:56 am

So given your experience with the stock plates, you WOULDN'T get Skid Row again?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:12 am

KeighJeigh wrote:

tjkj2002, it is a design issue that may be more obvious because this is a CRD. But even with a gasser there is a major weakness with the design the way it is - which I partly fixed it today.....I will post the pics of the fixes later. Here is some of what I did:

* After using a hammer to pound it back into shape, I shimmed it 5/8" so it wasn't smashed up against my differential. It was obnoxiously loud driving down the road and was damaging the differential since it slammed it every time I shifted into reverse. (In a few short days of driving the bottom diff bolt was already rounded on one corner and the diff had large wear marks on it.)
* I drilled & tapped some holes around the large opening located near the front bend of the skid plate and then placed a section of 1/4" steel over it. Not sure what this big hole is for on the CRD as the drain plug is further back and not covered by this skid plate. (Thus why I need the tranny skid plate that takes off where this one leaves off.) Perhaps it gives access to the drain plug on a gasser? Either way, this large opening is the most commonly struck spot on my KJ and the rocks snag it because of its orientation to the angle of the ground. It is also a weak spot. With the strong, removable plate I placed over it, strength and rigidity is significantly improved.
* I coated the topside with an entire bottle of undercoating and then placed a thin sheet of dense urethane rubber on top of that in order to reduce the speaker effect.

It no longer clanks loudly when shifting from reverse into drive, it is no longer hitting the diff, doesn't rattle in 4wd and is no longer noisy going down the freeway. When I get the time, I will cut out the section around the differential and axle and build a a small, inverted ramp over them. This will give that area the strength and clearance it needs to withstand impact without smashing up against the very parts it is tasked with protecting. It will also allow me to gain back the 5/8" clearance I lost putting in the spacers.

As new, this product was incapable of working properly on my CRD. With the fixes, it is marginally useful. Thus, I cannot recommend this product.

Never had a issue with my Skidrow plates at all.If your diff is moving that much you have worn mount bushings,and other worn mounts.

naturist · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:02 pm

Yeah, I think @tjkj2002 is onto something. If the engine and transmission move all that much just when you shift gears or R to D, I'd look at the engine mounts and transmission mounts. It sounds like one or more are broken, and they are a known weak spot.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:12 pm

X3, in fact I sent him a PM yesterday saying the same thing but he has not picked it up yet.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 3:44 pm

Let me break out the pics again............

I beat my Skidrow plates pretty hard.Sure I did bent the trans skid once where it did start to touch the exhaust but that was one massive hit after another and another with my KJ weighing over 5500lbs to do it.Pretty easy fix,just removed skid,propped up on a large rock and drove on top of it to bent it back.Was not easy to bent it back but got it and was all fine and dandy.No issue to me,gotta pay to play.

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:11 pm

maybe these? http://www.asfir.com/catalogueEN.asp?combo0=6&combo1=11

These are more or less for desert sands but big limestone rocks hide in the same as well. NOT CHEAP EITHER.

$14,000 in repairs with junk aftermarket parts

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