Thanks Geordie

buddy357 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 10:03 pm

For the timing belt help

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Aug 05, 2012 12:39 pm

Happy to help, good luck with all the other stuff you have going on. Compared with all that... Keeping a Jeep CRD moving is easy and uncomplicated! :mrgreen:

striperman36 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:46 pm

Geordi needs a 900 number and a good smoking hot sounding receptionist

I'm amazed the number of calls he must be getting.

Now what happens if Geordi and Sir Sam ditch their CRDs?

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:04 pm

striperman36 wrote:

Geordi needs a 900 number and a good smoking hot sounding receptionist

I'm amazed the number of calls he must be getting.

Now what happens if Geordi and Sir Sam ditch their CRDs?

I'll be looking for someone to do my belt in about 20K... probably in the late winter or very early Spring... anyone want the job? I was going to take it to a dealer that has done them before otherwise. I *might* do it myself, however, it depends on how much time I have...

striperman36 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:10 pm

It's doable. With the right instruction, tools and support.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:13 pm

striperman36 wrote:

It's doable. With the right instruction, tools and support.

I know. I am sure I can do it, that is not the problem, my problem is time :juggle:

buddy357 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:21 am

I was going to have to give up a weekend with my son but life gave me drama so I had the weekend open after all or I wouldn't have been able to get with Geordie to get mine done

striperman36 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:30 am

MRausch82 wrote:

striperman36 wrote:

It's doable. With the right instruction, tools and support.

I know. I am sure I can do it, that is not the problem, my problem is time :juggle:

Sleeep is overrated, I finished mine at 0100 Sunday morning.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 2:27 pm

Don't underestimate the time involved at all - The first time I did this big job, it took the better part of THREE days, with about 4 runs to the parts store or Home Depot for tools and items to make the job possible. There is something to be said for the experience in doing this, that now I have it down to just a few hours of steady work.

The only thing I haven't done yet is the water pump with Sam's new method of just replacing the front half, so I don't know how long that might have added to the job. I plan to again make my own the guinea pig for that job, at whatever point that my CRD tells me it needs it. I don't want to (and won't) experiment with someone else's vehicle with a procedure I haven't perfected.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:20 pm

Geordi,

I know it's easier to do the work with parts that are in the way removed, but do you remove the radiator and intercooler when you do the TB work?

The jeep mechanic that did the TB on my previous CRD did not remove them.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 1:14 am

Nope, I leave the radiator and AC system fully intact. It really isn't that hard to do from the top, unless you were planning on standing between the radiator and the cylinder head while you were working on it - Then it might be a bit cramped. :mrgreen:

For the life of me, I can't figure how pulling all that other stuff out (and the attendent fluid refills and potential for contamination) could POSSIBLY make the job any easier. I DO believe it simply makes the job take a lot longer.

If we hadn't been playing around with other mods (Samco hoses, etc) under the hood, it probably would have been about a 3 hour job with my experience speeding things up.

FYI: I also didn't bother with the crankshaft pin, for the simple logic that the CRD drove itself to the repair, thus the previous timing MUST have been at least within 1 tooth of perfect. If the top two pins sink in perfectly to their bases (they did), then place the crank properly (holes aligned) and it WILL be correct. All the problems you were having trying to put that pin in, were related to the belt stretching over time - The top pins are close enough to match, the bottom will then be a half-tooth out with a 100k mile old belt. That pin will not go in with the old belt in place. Don't worry about it.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:24 am

I agree with geordi, removal of all that stuff might make access easier and it allows close inspection of the intercooler for leaks but I'm not sure it's worth the bother.

I would add that while you have the fan and fan shroud out it only takes a few minutes to do a fan shroud mod that makes future access much easier.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:17 pm

Papa.... can you link us to the fan shroud modification thread?

Thanks in advance.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:56 pm

Now I want to pull my intercooler. I swear it's leaking

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:06 pm

Sure. See my post, with recent updates, and the included link at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=64278&p=709322#p709322 . That string also discusses another decent fan shroud mod idea.

Sir Sam's NOOB guide has a link to his timing belt instructions that I think shows where the typical leak point is located and how he tested. Just a thought it should be pretty easy to undo the engine end of both intercooler hoses and rig plugs with a simple tire valve at one end. Lightly pressurize the system, I'd guess maybe 10-15 psi should be ok as IIRC the normal boost tops out above that. Wait 30 minutes and check pressure, no significant drop not intercooler leak or the converse. Might be an easier way to check than pulling intercooler. Just a thought. Of course if you have a leak then the intercooler needs to come off and the leak located.

FYI someone a while back was looking into a metal intercooler replacement but I don't recall the outcome if any.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:15 pm

Can the intercooler be removed without removing the radiator?

When it comes to the cooling system, I like to leave well enough alone.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:19 pm

My question as well. I want to remove the intercooler.

DOC

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:36 am

I'm going to say that it is probably "possible" to remove the intercooler without unhooking the radiator... But on a 1-10 scale of difficulty, it could rate about a 12. The radiator is the closest one to the engine, with the ports lower down underneath and slightly inboard of the ports of the intercooler. Theoretically, the intercooler could lift straight up and the radiator could remain basically in place, but the AC condenser is in front of the intercooler. I don't know how that all is connected / bolted together, or whether the combination AC condenser / trans cooler needs to be drained and removed WITH the intercooler. Asking the radiator hoses / connections to flex much at all is also asking for trouble - That plastic doesn't tolerate much abuse before cracking, which you certainly don't want.

I would suggest some careful examination of the parts PDF images, maybe you can discover how it is all bolted together, and if you are very lucky... The stack will unlock from the engine-side and the intercooler in the middle can just lift out.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:27 am

What's SirSam's take on it, he wrote the book....?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 09, 2012 3:01 pm

Keith just told me that he has done many timing belt jobs without removing the front end. He thinks that to remove the IC, it is best to remove with the rad and then split.

DOC

Thanks Geordie

Who is online