'06 Blowing black exhaust smoke - injectors?

MidwifeMimi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:43 pm

I have a 2006 CRD Limited with 201K miles on it. I had the timing belt (and all the other stuff that goes along with it including a new radiator) done at 198K. Right after that service, the CEL came on. Great. Back to the shop (a local garage called "Jeep Guys") where they checked it, said it was an error and reset the light. This happened again and then a third time and each time they told me that the code it was giving was not the problem. The car is running fine, don't worry about it. Around this time I noticed it was blowing a LOT of black smoke, more on acceleration, but even some when just accelerating slightly. Hmmm. I am not completely sure if it was smoking before this timing belt service, because I probably did not look. I started looking for smoke when I saw the CEL on. Anyway, I was getting ready to go on a trip, so I asked the guy if it would be OK to drive and he said sure. Off I went, smoking the entire time and noticing that my mileage was off about 3-4 mpg. Worse smoke with more acceleration, but some smoke all the time. When I got home, I thought to myself this can't be right, so I called them back. Brought it back in, they check and check and finally say it could be a bad EGR. They replaced the EGR which helps, but there's still smoke and the CEL is still coming on. Now I am disgusted with these guys and so I try the local dealer. I call and talk to them (we've been there before but my husband prefers a local garage) about all that has happened and they say bring it in. They keep it for a week, find a bad PCV something (filter?) and hose, but everything else checks out. They see the smoke, declare it 'not too bad', say it is running fine with the exception of some worn injectors. He has talked to someone at Jeep HQ and they have gone through a whole bunch of tests, and this is the answer. He says the CEL being on is unrelated to the smoke. The CEL issue is due to an accumulation of soot in the interior of the engine. They quote me $5800 to replace the injectors and clean out the soot, but also tell me that it is not really necessary. He says if it was his car he would just drive it and that it will not make anything else worse by driving it. WHAT? OK. MY husband is with the Military Sealift Command and is out to sea, so I am sort of at their mercy.

They have been VERY nice and did not charge me an arm and a leg for all the checks - just for what they did. Anyway, I know this is long and may not make a lot of sense, but I found this forum as I was researching online and wondered if any of y'all have had this issue. Is it the injectors? It seems like 200K miles is not that many to have to replace something so important - is this typical? Shoudl I get that GDE (?) thing to be put on the car? HELP! I do not like the smoke. I can live with the CEL being on.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

If you can get the list of fault codes stored on the engine controller it would be helpful.

MidwifeMimi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:36 am

Here is what is on my invoices from the most recent back to 9 months ago:

P0101, Mass Air Flow Sensor Fault (I think that is the same code), P0100, P0146, U0121, U0146

The Jeep Guys told me that the P0101 has been given several times recently. I took it in 3 days in a row when the CEL came on. One of those was for an O2 sensor and they say my car does not have an O2 sensor.

I hope this helps.

naturist · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:09 am

Please do note that it is NOT normal to replace injectors at 200,000 miles. And while I do not wish to cast any aspersions on the Jeep Guys shop, I note that being nice guys is not quite the same as being competent mechanics. And while we're at it, blowing black smoke is not normal, nor should it be tolerated.

There are a number of possible causes that cost a lot less than a full set of injectors. One that comes to mind right away is the air hose from the turbo to the intercooler. This hose takes a lot of abuse and can split. Another would be the MAF or the MAP sensors.

Given the advice by a mechanic to just drive it anyway in response to such a problem, I would take that response as an invitation to get another opinion from some other mechanic. Green Diesel Engineering (located in Michigan) would be such a guy. So would SirSam (currently in Colorado). You don't specify a location, but where ever you are, SOMEBODY good with a wrench is near you.

MidwifeMimi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:31 am

Thank you, Naturist! I did not think black smoke was normal, even if the vehicle is running well in all other aspects. I made the decision to dump the Jeep Guys and move to the dealer because of this bad advice from them. However, the dealer (nice as they are), has also been unable to come up with anything other than bad injectors. I am located in the Triad of NC - Greensboro, Winston Salem, High Point. My husband said the same thing - aren't there any good diesel mechanics in our state? The MAF sensor was replaced last year. Could it be bad again?

kissfan79 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:55 am

Midwifemimi,
Hello....Not sure if I'll be much help but I'll try. I recently had the P101 code for the mass air flow sensor. I cleaned it and replaced it as well as replaced the air filter (was full of stuff) and my CEL went away after about 120 miles of driving. You did say the mass air flow sensor was replaced so I don't know if you would have an issue with it being dirty. I think mine was more realted to the dirty air filter. The other codes you are showing are:

P0100-MAF SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO HIGH or MAF SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW
P0146-? not listed in the code descriptions in the CRD tech section
U0121-LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE
U0146-? not listed in the code descriptions in the CRD tech section

As far as the smoke...you can check your turbo boost hoses as naturist suggested. I had a split in the one going from the intercooler to the intake (one on the driver's side) and I was billowing out black smoke any time I tried to give it any gas. The thing was that I also had an extreme loss of pwer when this happened to me.....which you have not described.

I live in Raleigh and just had my timing belt service done by Global Off Road and Diesel. This was my first experience with them so I am just going of that but they were nice to deal with and had no problems (that I can tell) performing the service. They specialize in customizing and building up diesels. I realize it is a bit of ways from you but their number is 919-784-0411. Ask for Jerry. Maybe they can give you some more insight.

Jim

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:17 am

I would honestly say to go read the Noob Guide, it will show you and talk about how to "CLEAN" the MAP and MAF sensors (much cheaper than a standard replacement). You can do this yourself with some very simple tools and cheaply too.

Replacing the EGR was a waste of money honestly, just the part alone costs around $200 not counting labor to fix it.

Honestly if you've already spent the money and still have the thick black smoke, try the ORM mod (cheapest if you don't have a emissions state requirement for plates) and just un-plug the MAF sensor on the intake. That will throw a CEL (check engine light) but it will eliminate the EGR and the FCV (also called an EGR by Chrysler).

The P0101 code can either be the MAP or MAF sensors. If you had the MAF sensor replaced, then you definitely need to clean the MAP sensor, which can be easily removed with an alan wrench and cleaned with some (NON-CHLORINATED) brake parts cleaner that you can pick up anywhere. Change the air filter whether it looks like it needs it or not (Just don't buy FRAM) and also take the MAF sensor out and spray the brake parts cleaner inside there as well while you're doing all this. Go look at how nasty they get in the NOOB GUIDE, there's very nice reference pictures there.

I would definitely recommend having the turbo hoses checked as well, or have your shop (Didn't realize husband was out to sea until I re-read completely) check them, the picture in the NOOB guide is a good reference, but if you are not mechanically inclined you might want to take it to the shop.

You probably should consider (I know this is a common statement, but it REALLY applies) a GDE ECO tune, which alleviates the CEL and removes the EGR and the FCV from the equation except under some very stressful (and uncommon) situations, adds about 20% fuel efficiency (in my testing so far) and will keep you from having to replace the EGR/FCV ever again.

I will check out those codes when I get home and will post again, don't let anyone just arbitrarily repair anything they find wrong right away, there may be another cheaper, and more permanent, solution.

It probably just needs cleaned out, make sure for the next ~5000 miles you add some cetane booster (available at just about any auto parts store or at big stations like Flying J or Love's truck stops) to all of your fuel, American Pump Diesel still isn't very high quality {It really wouldn't hurt you at all to always do this}. It also doesn't hurt once you have the cleaner (additives included) fuel to take it out and romp it around a bit on the Interstate. Pull over to the side of the Interstate and when you have a clean shot, run it from 0-80 on a dead run to clean out (burn out and blow out) some of the crap in there.

This vehicle is a rare beast in the US, and the people here are probably better equipped to trouble shoot it and help you with your problems than most of the techs at the dealer.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:34 am

Yes the MAF sensor could be dirty again, I doubt that it's failed, due to a dirty air filter or it could simply have a loose plug (unlock plug, remove, reinstall and lock). NOTE IIRC the code will have to be manually cleared or it will go away on it's own but only after "enough" drive cycles.

U0146 per the 06 FSM is LOST COMMUNICATION WITH CENTRAL GATEWAY (copy available via Sir Sam's NOOB guide) and could be related to chaffed wires in the bundle behind the fuel filter head or battery voltage if your battery is old or that anti-lock brake code.

X2 on checking both hoses to/from intercooler. If they have a woven cover they are OEM hoses. To inspect they will need to be completely removed from the vehicle, the woven cover removed (you will get oily hands doing this), at which point they can be inspected by looking, particularly on the bottom, for cracks or tears (may need to squeeze the hose to flex the surface). Small holes can cause lots of smoke without lots of loss of power. If bad replace with Samcos. While in there look for a tear in the airbox to turbo hose on the bottom just in front of the turbo under the "T" where the hose from the hock puck on top of the engine connects (OEM is the only replacement but it's only like $60 or so)

MidwifeMimi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:31 am

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to print this out and take it to the mechanic at the dealership. I already bought a bottle of cetane boost (that was an easy place to start) and I may also talk to the guy in Raleigh (thanks for that info!).

'06 Blowing black exhaust smoke - injectors?

Who is online