My last post questioned which engine 2.5 or 2.8. From the excellent responses I received I have decided it doesn't really matter...pros and cons etc..

After trawling the net for a good one I often come across Auto CRD's 2.5 and 2.8. I currently drive a 4.0lXJ Auto and although I love it, towing anything around tonne (2200lbs) it seems to struggle unless you give it lots of gas. The torque converter lets it slip I suppose
So I want a KJ CRD to replace it but prefer a manual so I am in control of the power delivery and diesel for low down torque.

However as mentioned before, there are some good Auto's around, can anyone convince me that the auto KJ CRD pulls hard from low revs with minimal TC slippage! I would like to drive one myself but I live in remote Scotland and they are along way from me usually and I want to buy one from South England so it hasn't seen as much road salt as in Scotland where they can't wait to get the stuff down. Any I have looked at are very rusty underneath.

I hauled a Travel Trailer (Caravan on your side of the pond) this summer with mine that weighed in about 4500 pounds. It did get warm on long wide open throttle hills. But with the automatic, it was no issues. I personally envy you guys having the manual transmission option.

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

With today's transmissions it's pretty much a matter of personal preference. Weak link on a manual is the clutch (e.g. lots of heavy towing may one day require installation of a heavy duty clutch) and on automatic is the torque converter (e.g. ditto installation of a heavy duty torque converter). Neither are a huge deal and may never need doing.

Given the UK climate I doubt that it's needed but installing an auxillary transmission cooler for the automatic is not necessary but is not a bad idea. Doing so is a DIY project at a cost in the US of under $75. See viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62013&p=686385&hilit=cooler#p686385 or http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm for examples.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

So when you pull away from a stop with your caravan does the engine need to rev up a fair bit to get moving?

Would you prefer to have a manual to pull your trailer?

The main reason we only have the automatic option in the US is due to emissions, it is easier to control emissions with an automatic.
I strongly disliked the F-37 TCM and since I prefer the control you get with a manual; I pursued other options and chose the '03 5.7L 545RFE Ram TCM that I retrained after swapping it out.
Unlike the F-37ed TCM, I can make the Ram TCM shift up when I want. To help the 545RFE stay together with my Inmotion Stage II tune that has low end torque, that I prefer for towing, I installed a Suncoast torque converter. The Euro torque converter with the larger dampener springs is what VM recommended to Chrysler after initial dyno testing from day one. After a lot of software flashes like the F-37 and detuning the engine output, along with costly recalls, the Bean Counter Engineers pouted and followed VM's recommendations and came up with the Euro. They had to install the larger springs that cost a few cents extra (maybe up to $0.25 US per converter) and change the BOM along with the drawings, a half hour job that they like to drag out and make cost a lot of money.
Is the Euro as strong as the Suncoast that can handle up to 400HP? No, but it looks like it can handle tunes up to the GDE torque tune and the Inmotion Eco tune along with some of the milder tunes put out by Rocket Chip.
The CRD manual transmission has enough reserve but the Bean Counter Engineered Dual Mass Flywheel Clutch Assembly is weak and would grenade with even the stock Auto CRD ECM tune, that is why they derated the torque and horsepower output with the manual option not available in the US. The excuse for using a Dual Mass Flywheel is to have the engine run smoother at idle.
To have a great Manual option for the stronger tunes, a real clutch with a slightly heavier solid flywheel would turn the Bean Counter's beans into a bowl full of bean dip. One member started on this venture, but I have heard nothing about the swap over that would require wiring harness modifications, a manual trans TCM and other mechanical changes.
For me and a few other CRD owners, the Ram or GC TCM swap now selling for around $50 from salvage yards is the easiest option. Some love it some hate it, it all depends upon how much control on shifting you want and how smart your foot is.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I don't feel that from a stop, it revs up a bit. Maybe a bit more than normal, but if it does, I didn't really notice it. I just rather have a transmission with more control. I wish this was more like the newer autos where you can select a gear and it will stay there, unless a safety feature overrides it.

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2006 Sport, GDE FT Eco Tune, Custom Trans Tune
2015 Ram 1500 Big Horn EcoDiesel, GDE Hot Tune

Warps solution and being able to control the shifting with your accel pedal is awesome. But you do need, along with a good TC, to upgrade the check valve springs or the entire tranny pump to tow a decent weight.

I tow a pop up tent camper with mine and I feel it does well. mine is only 1100 pounds empty but once i shove some food drink clothes and gear in to it i bet it is close to 1500 but is rated at max loaded weight of 1800# It never seems like it works too hard to pull it even pulling out into traffic it feels only a tiny bit less responsive than with out the trailer. I often go to a place well into the foot hills of the Poconos so there are hills to go up. I never have yet to have to climb any at less than 60-65 mph and never need to take it out of overdrive. I could forget it was back there sometimes too.
I think the auto in the 2.8 CRD is pretty good. with some work it can tow a lot more than I do. I never had mine pre F-37 so I can't say how that effected it.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Hello.....
I pull a 12' (16' with the tongue) concession trailer that weighs between 4500-5000 pounds depending on how loaded down it is. When it is in drive, the CRD will start to pull it just at idle. I don't think it really has to rev any higher to get going. It may accelerate a bit slower but has no problems getting going from a stop.

Jim

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Stock 06 CRD Limited
Timing belt replaced at 110,000 miles

Here is a link with pictures of what some members here pull with the CRD.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=66401

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2005 Jeep Liberty Limited CRD, JBA coilovers-4.5 Arms, 5xMoab's with 265-75-16 Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ, Safari snorkel, Suncoast T/C, GDE Hot tune, Mandrel bent CAC Tubes, EHM to airbox, Mopar skid's, Fumoto Drain Valve, 3% Tint, ARB front bumper, Full set of Miller tools (9599) to loan within my immediate vicinity.

Thanks for the replies everyone, it looks to me like the Auto will be fine for what I need especially being a Euro one.

Can't believe the size of that caravan in the link you posted, that must be near 30ft.

I will let you all know when I get one and post some photos of my trailer exploits.