Finally lifted my CRD, take a look!

Anchorism · **Joined:** Wed May 23, 2012 6:31 am **Posts:** 71

So this isn't my first forum and I know to look and read but sometimes one doesn't have much time to browse for crap

Sent by telekinesis

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2012 2:39 pm

jasonatdimecity wrote:

So you put spacers on the bottom vs. adding more isolators? That's the route I was thinking of going, but some other folks are saying it's better to do the isolators.

Not sure on the total cost. I picked up a piece here and there over the course of 3-4 months..

Guess I'll just use the Daystars as door stops then... But just to be clear, all you guys are still using the stock rear bumpstops?

I did, 45 bucks shipped for the spacers. I might add upper isolator later with the weight in the rear sagging it down.

tommudd wrote:

Stock rear UPPER bump stops and then 2 hockey pucks per side ( bolted to the spring perch ) for 2 inches of bumpstops
Add 2 uppers per side and you'll be fine

This is how I have my bump stops, the hockey pucks fit fine on the bottom with the spacers.

arengant · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:44 pm

tommudd wrote:

Tires are too big for the amount of lift, you really need at least 3.5 preferably 4 inches to run 265-75-16s You have not quite 3 even
What wheel spacing did you go with? Looks more than 4 ?
4.10s would help a lot on power and mileage

For the rear all you have to do is an extra upper isolator, explained many times

Looks alright though, wrong color of course :ROTFL:

Quick hijack-

Does lift actually give more room? At full compression (hitting front bump stop) the tire would rub at the same places regardless of lift amount correct? And if it rubs a little during normal driving, wouldn't it rub A LOT off-road, so more lift would/could help out for daily driving but do nothing for off-road?

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:53 pm

arengant wrote:

This is how I have my bump stops, the hockey pucks fit fine on the bottom with the spacers.

One problem with running bottom spacer and hockey pucks as bumpstops.
With the bottom spacer you have now moved the bottom of the spring up, so you need more bumpstop so that the spring won't stack when fully compressed

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:55 pm

arengant wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Tires are too big for the amount of lift, you really need at least 3.5 preferably 4 inches to run 265-75-16s You have not quite 3 even
What wheel spacing did you go with? Looks more than 4 ?
4.10s would help a lot on power and mileage

For the rear all you have to do is an extra upper isolator, explained many times

Looks alright though, wrong color of course :ROTFL:

Quick hijack-

Does lift actually give more room? At full compression (hitting front bump stop) the tire would rub at the same places regardless of lift amount correct? And if it rubs a little during normal driving, wouldn't it rub A LOT off-road, so more lift would/could help out for daily driving but do nothing for off-road?

You're right to a point. More lift though and more bumpstop, old rule was for every inch of lift one inch of bumpstop. I run 3 inches in the rear of mine

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:56 pm

Anchorism wrote:

So this isn't my first forum and I know to look and read but sometimes one doesn't have much time to browse for crap

Sent by telekinesis

Browse for crap?
I though we had good useful information on here
mmmmm

You'd be surprised in what you learn when you sit down and read some.
Lift questions especially get answered at least 20 times per week, same questions, same answers
it only takes a few moments to browse through and read what has been posted
Plus you may learn even more.
I have over 20,000 posts, , I bet 18000 have been just the same lift questions over and over :ROTFL:

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

tommudd wrote:

Lift questions especially get answered at least 20 times per week, same questions, same answers

Sad thing is he's not even exaggerating. The SAME exact question 20+ times a week.

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 1:21 am

tommudd wrote:

arengant wrote:

This is how I have my bump stops, the hockey pucks fit fine on the bottom with the spacers.

One problem with running bottom spacer and hockey pucks as bumpstops.
With the bottom spacer you have now moved the bottom of the spring up, so you need more bumpstop so that the spring won't stack when fully compressed

So the spring is not linear, meaning a spacer up top lowering the top of the spring (opposite of raising the bottom) doesn't cause stacking? I have yet to watch the spring coils compress as the the wheel travels.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 1:31 am

arengant wrote:

tommudd wrote:

arengant wrote:

This is how I have my bump stops, the hockey pucks fit fine on the bottom with the spacers.

One problem with running bottom spacer and hockey pucks as bumpstops.
With the bottom spacer you have now moved the bottom of the spring up, so you need more bumpstop so that the spring won't stack when fully compressed

So the spring is not linear, meaning a spacer up top lowering the top of the spring (opposite of raising the bottom) doesn't cause stacking? I have yet to watch the spring coils compress as the the wheel travels.

Any lift coil made for the KJ is a linear coil.

jinstall · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:10 am

I believe the H&R springs are progressive up front and linear in the rear.

Anchorism · **Joined:** Wed May 23, 2012 6:31 am **Posts:** 71

tommudd wrote:

Anchorism wrote:

So this isn't my first forum and I know to look and read but sometimes one doesn't have much time to browse for crap

Sent by telekinesis

Browse for crap?
I though we had good useful information on here
mmmmm

You'd be surprised in what you learn when you sit down and read some.
Lift questions especially get answered at least 20 times per week, same questions, same answers
it only takes a few moments to browse through and read what has been posted
Plus you may learn even more.
I have over 20,000 posts, , I bet 18000 have been just the same lift questions over and over :ROTFL:

So my question asking how much he paid for it was mainly regarding "Hey, maybe he got a good deal somewhere..." thats why im asking. I think more than 700 bones for a lift of this caliber is rediculous. Not getting into details of the lift or anything but being honest 2-3" isnt much. Even though its the max you can go with KJ's with out major money and mods. I think it would be rather nice to know if someone found a less expensive deal somewhere somehow.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:59 am

you want cheaper then you can get the iron man kit that is very close to the OME kit for I think $650. I would have got that but no one else has tested it on a CRD. it is still a full spring lift and all. the only thing cheaper than that is the day star spacer lift which is only going to ride rough and wear out the springs and you will buy a spring lift anyhow

KJ_WHEELER_2010 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 8:59 am

tommudd wrote:

I though we had good useful information on here
mmmmm

You'd be surprised in what you learn when you sit down and read some.
Lift questions especially get answered at least 20 times per week, same questions, same answers
it only takes a few moments to browse through and read what has been posted
Plus you may learn even more.
I have over 20,000 posts, , I bet 18000 have been just the same lift questions over and over :ROTFL:

So with that in mind, what lift should I .............. :-)r

Sorry couldn't help it :SOMBRERO:

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:06 am

Anchorism wrote:

So my question asking how much he paid for it was mainly regarding "Hey, maybe he got a good deal somewhere..." thats why im asking. I think more than 700 bones for a lift of this caliber is rediculous. Not getting into details of the lift or anything but being honest 2-3" isnt much. Even though its the max you can go with KJ's with out major money and mods. I think it would be rather nice to know if someone found a less expensive deal somewhere somehow.

Comes down to this, OME/ Ironman etc pretty much set the prices so you can look all day long and you may save some on shipping but all prices are going to be almost the same.
Now sometimes you can save a few bucks on shocks but not 100-200, no way.
700 "bones" is not that much for a good quality lift for the KJ/KK or any other vehicle. I've paid way more than that for 3 -4 inches of lift on other vehicles.
Being "honest" 2-3 inches of lift and a good set of tires completely changes the way a KJ/KK takes on not only daily driving but off road as well.
AFTER 10 years the best deals are what we use, they are proven to work, they last a long time, and the ride and overall performance is the best you can get.
Some of us have been on these forums for 10 plus years, we've seen people try other things that didn't work, and we've seen what does work.
Myself, I've had 3 different lifts on mine in the last 160,000 miles, but also had it torn apart at least 100 times testing variations of what may or not get another 1/4 inch.
Now back to our regular programming where Batman searches for the Joker :wink:

It is what you read when you don't have to
that determines what you will be
when you can't help it.
~Oscar Wilde~

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:56 am

arengant wrote:

tommudd wrote:

arengant wrote:

This is how I have my bump stops, the hockey pucks fit fine on the bottom with the spacers.

One problem with running bottom spacer and hockey pucks as bumpstops.
With the bottom spacer you have now moved the bottom of the spring up, so you need more bumpstop so that the spring won't stack when fully compressed

So the spring is not linear, meaning a spacer up top lowering the top of the spring (opposite of raising the bottom) doesn't cause stacking? I have yet to watch the spring coils compress as the the wheel travels.

It will still cause stacking, but what I was getting at is if you have say 2 inches of bumpstop, but then install a lower spacer of say 1/2 inch , you now only have 1.5 inches of bumpstop , so your spring will stack sooner

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:00 pm

tommudd wrote:

It will still cause stacking, but what I was getting at is if you have say 2 inches of bumpstop, but then install a lower spacer of say 1/2 inch , you now only have 1.5 inches of bumpstop , so your spring will stack sooner

Hijacking continues, I actually was going to post this as a new topic and I still can if the OP wants me to, hope you don't mind because it does apply to your jeep, jasonatdimecity...

I guess I am not visualizing this correctly. It seems like when the rear bump stops hit, there will be a certain distance between the frame and axle, and ANY spacer (top or bottom) can cause stacking. This is the same up front, front spacers (clevis lift, or top plate) will cause the spring or shock to compress further than designed unless a bumpstop is used. That is how I thought it worked, what am I missing?

Helpful info from TonyCRD:

tonycrd wrote:

Do I need bump stops and why?

Yes you need longer bump stops. A common rule of thumb is for every inch of lift an inch of bump stop is needed. You can use the Terraflex (3") or the Daystar’s on the front.

For the rear there are Daystar’s but any DIY will do, hockey pucks and rubber mallets are most commonly used.

Why you need them: If you fit longer springs they can be compressed to far with the stock bump stops so you get spring binding (the metal parts of the coil touching). That’s not good. The spring will start to sag or even break pretty quick.

©Long_Tall_Texan

OME has now stated that for their suspension system you do not need any longer bumpstops. Beware: that works only if you do not mix their stuff with other components!

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:10 pm

Fully understand Tonys post, he's good friend of mine and we talked a lot about it when he was putting up that post.
And yes you are right to a point
What I was getting at is this
You have two hocking pucks sitting on the spring plate, OK so far?
so they are sticking up two inches
Now you remove the spring, add in a 1/2 inch spacer on the bottom
you now effectively have only a 1.5 inch bumpstop raising the spring 1/2 inch, so it will stack 1/2 inch sooner than one with out a spacer in there. You have went from having say 6 inches of free travel before stacking to 5.5 inches due to the spring being 1/2 inch higher
yes it does raise the spring more which should give you more room in the perfect world
but still need to raise the bumpstop an equal amount

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:30 pm

The tonycrd I guess was for the original poster

I completely see what you are saying. However, if you put two upper isos, wouldn't that effectively diminish the factory top bump stop by one inch? Exactly opposite of what you are saying?

This is probably one of those "It works on paper, but not in real life" situations where learning by experience is important.

blackwidowkj06 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 13, 2012 4:20 pm

I'm actually thankful for these post debates, if you call it that. I read them constantly and that's how I've learned what I know now about the Liberty. Instead of posting a lot for Q's & A's, I do research.
This bump stop stuff will come in handy when I start ordering new lift parts first of the year.

jasonatdimecity · **Joined:** Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:24 pm **Posts:** 20

Anchorism wrote:

tommudd wrote:

Anchorism wrote:

So this isn't my first forum and I know to look and read but sometimes one doesn't have much time to browse for crap

Sent by telekinesis

Browse for crap?
I though we had good useful information on here
mmmmm

You'd be surprised in what you learn when you sit down and read some.
Lift questions especially get answered at least 20 times per week, same questions, same answers
it only takes a few moments to browse through and read what has been posted
Plus you may learn even more.
I have over 20,000 posts, , I bet 18000 have been just the same lift questions over and over :ROTFL:

So my question asking how much he paid for it was mainly regarding "Hey, maybe he got a good deal somewhere..." thats why im asking. I think more than 700 bones for a lift of this caliber is rediculous. Not getting into details of the lift or anything but being honest 2-3" isnt much. Even though its the max you can go with KJ's with out major money and mods. I think it would be rather nice to know if someone found a less expensive deal somewhere somehow.

Actually, I think it's more than fair. If you buy standard OME or Billstein components (all I would ever consider running) it's part for the course. I've had over 10 lifted Land Rovers and I've spent more than that on several of them... You get what you pay for and if you wanna play, you gotta pay. IMO of course.

I will say this though... I spent a GOOD deal of time researching this board finding all the components needed for the lift. The problem with the lift threads is that there are a couple and some things have changed and others have come up with better/different ideas. If it truly is the most commonly asked question my suggestion would be to re-cap it again in a new post and sticky it and then, when someone has a questions, just point them to the link of the thread...

Finally lifted my CRD, take a look!

Who is online