Finally lifted my CRD, take a look!

jasonatdimecity · **Joined:** Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:24 pm **Posts:** 20

tommudd wrote:

Fully understand Tonys post, he's good friend of mine and we talked a lot about it when he was putting up that post.
And yes you are right to a point
What I was getting at is this
You have two hocking pucks sitting on the spring plate, OK so far?
so they are sticking up two inches
Now you remove the spring, add in a 1/2 inch spacer on the bottom
you now effectively have only a 1.5 inch bumpstop raising the spring 1/2 inch, so it will stack 1/2 inch sooner than one with out a spacer in there. You have went from having say 6 inches of free travel before stacking to 5.5 inches due to the spring being 1/2 inch higher
yes it does raise the spring more which should give you more room in the perfect world
but still need to raise the bumpstop an equal amount

I agree with the logic here, it does make sense. My only concern with "stacking" isolators on top is that they could walk or shift. I'm thinking the best solution here would be for someone to machine and upper base spacer that a single top isolator sits on? That way you're increasing the lift of the spring from the top but it's still secure.

Thoughts?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:44 am

never seen any shift in all I have worked on
No way they can really
The upper ones fit up over where the stock one goes and no way for them to move at all
no where for them to move to, don't see how they even could
Lower side ( if you added one there ) it sits down far enough that its held in place as well, if nothing else by the bumpstops
Also since you have to use a jack etc to "spread " everything to get the rear springs in no way things can move really

Crawl under and really look at the rear setup
this is with only the stock upper and lower ( JBA 4 inch springs) but you can see the lip where I did have two extra uppers on it, can see where its clean at :wink:

no way for them to come down over that lip

jasonatdimecity · **Joined:** Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:24 pm **Posts:** 20

tommudd wrote:

never seen any shift in all I have worked on
No way they can really
The upper ones fit up over where the stock one goes and no way for them to move at all
no where for them to move to, don't see how they even could
Lower side ( if you added one there ) it sits down far enough that its held in place as well, if nothing else by the bumpstops
Also since you have to use a jack etc to "spread " everything to get the rear springs in no way things can move really

Crawl under and really look at the rear setup
this is with only the stock upper and lower ( JBA 4 inch springs) but you can see the lip where I did have two extra uppers on it, can see where its clean at :wink:

no way for them to come down over that lip

Ok, here's another thought... Can I just ditch the OME springs for a taller set of springs by JBA or someone else and forget any additional spacers?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:53 am

No one else has taller
the JBAs I am running now are for "4" inches of lift
I ran with two extra uppers for over 160,000 miles and no issues
Don't really see what the problem is
Its the way I do everyone that I do
Its simple and it works

joshmarchand · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:59 pm

Another hijack...

What I would love to know is what you (mudd) did up front to match the 4" rear coils!!??

Care to share your secret?

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:23 pm

I've been running over 4 inches up front ( and rear ) for years now, on the old lift and now 60,000 on this current one. Currently still at 23.25 in front.
Its not a secret of what I have although I have been accused of not sharing what I did :ROTFL:

joshmarchand · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:50 am

I'm guessing the lift part isn't hard. Do a 1/2" top plat and a 3/8" clevis?
What did you do to make the front axles ok with that much lift?

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 1:22 am

joshmarchand wrote:

I'm guessing the lift part isn't hard. Do a 1/2" top plat and a 3/8" clevis?
What did you do to make the front axles ok with that much lift?

1/2 inch top plate :shock:

Way too much top plate
All the lifts we do here are the same
1/4 inch top plate with 3/8 inch clevis in front with two extra uppers in the rear
When settled in you end up with 3.5/3.75 inches of lift ( 22.5-22.75 )
On mine..............
I'm not running any clevis or top plates. :wink:

OME 790s and gasser Frankelift parts for the extra weight, no it would not work well on a CRD or Gasser with stock bumpers etc .
Also running stock CVs ( right side is remanned from NAPA, left side is still stock with over 179,000 on it, almost 160,000 lifted miles)

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:30 am

so if I understand what you posted above tom I may not be able to use the top plate I have on my CRD with the 790 coils, is that right?

I am hoping for as much lift as I can get with out wreaking the CV. I still need this to be reliable as a DD :JEEPIN:

arengant · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 3:04 pm

mikey1273 wrote:

so if I understand what you posted above tom I may not be able to use the top plate I have on my CRD with the 790 coils, is that right?

I am hoping for as much lift as I can get with out wreaking the CV. I still need this to be reliable as a DD :JEEPIN:

The driver's side CV is shorter which makes it have a steeper angle when lifted than gassers, so a top plate would put extra wear on it. A shaved unit would help, but honestly the 790 coils would provide enough room in my opinion so I am skipping the top plate/clevis lift (for now at least).

On the OTHER hand, the passenger CV is longer and less affected by a lift, so it should be fine on a CRD with more lift, which only means you'd probably only have to buy the driver's side :SOMBRERO:

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 3:29 pm

arengant wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

so if I understand what you posted above tom I may not be able to use the top plate I have on my CRD with the 790 coils, is that right?

I am hoping for as much lift as I can get with out wreaking the CV. I still need this to be reliable as a DD :JEEPIN:

The driver's side CV is shorter which makes it have a steeper angle when lifted than gassers, so a top plate would put extra wear on it. A shaved unit would help, but honestly the 790 coils would provide enough room in my opinion so I am skipping the top plate/clevis lift (for now at least).

On the OTHER hand, the passenger CV is longer and less affected by a lift, so it should be fine on a CRD with more lift, which only means you'd probably only have to buy the driver's side :SOMBRERO:

only the drivers side shaved? can you do that with out issue? I had heard about the shaved ones but thought they had to be done in pairs. there was also someone here shaving the NAPA units

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 5:02 pm

Stay at a reasonable height
and no shaved CVs to buy or worry about
novel idea,......right? :ROTFL:

805gregg · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:43 pm

Large tires look cool but screw up mileage and drive ratios, i would go smaller and get better mileage.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:49 pm

Regearing is your friend
More lift, Big tires, Regear, have fun

arengant · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:48 am

mikey1273 wrote:

arengant wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

so if I understand what you posted above tom I may not be able to use the top plate I have on my CRD with the 790 coils, is that right?

I am hoping for as much lift as I can get with out wreaking the CV. I still need this to be reliable as a DD :JEEPIN:

The driver's side CV is shorter which makes it have a steeper angle when lifted than gassers, so a top plate would put extra wear on it. A shaved unit would help, but honestly the 790 coils would provide enough room in my opinion so I am skipping the top plate/clevis lift (for now at least).

On the OTHER hand, the passenger CV is longer and less affected by a lift, so it should be fine on a CRD with more lift, which only means you'd probably only have to buy the driver's side :SOMBRERO:

only the drivers side shaved? can you do that with out issue? I had heard about the shaved ones but thought they had to be done in pairs. there was also someone here shaving the NAPA units

audioboy, the member that shaves them from NAPA, has a CRD, so I'd ask him what is needed vs wanted up front

tommudd wrote:

Stay at a reasonable height
and no shaved CVs to buy or worry about
novel idea,......right? :ROTFL:

Tommudd is right though, if you are only getting 245/75r16, then why spend more? Tires and gears and issues with the height add up quick... but I think as a hobby it's money well spent!

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 16, 2012 4:35 pm

well the thing is I only have 245/70 on it now at stock height. I'm fine with that and re gearing is quite expensive. I really am not a big daring off roader. only go a few times a years so far as time allows me the reasons for lifting are: 1 for better off road when I do go on forest trails and the like. 2 looks plus its not that much more in my mind than replacing the stock suspension and only gaining back the stock height and ride when you look at the cost of just the springs, struts shocks and labor. the a arms are more but I do want it done right the first time, don't want to mess with it over and over. not willing to deal with the springs banging the a arms and wearing out ball joints all the time.

I don't know if I will get bigger tires or not. I will be keeping what I have until they are worn out. I'm cheap I know but I cant see replacing tires that are still usable now. I don't think I want to go more than 245/75 as it is now I have no issue with the fuel economy and power, the reasons I picked a CRD over a gasser so I don't want to do anything that will put my MPG way down in the toilet. so reasonable height and tires sound like its for me

I will have to PM audioboy about the CV's

I think I may have found someone to install it. he is a mechanic friend that works at a shop a little bit away but not too far, still in the same county. his boss will not let him do it at the shop due to an issue they had with a truck they lifted having an idler arm rip off. they are scared to lift anything in the shop now due to liability but he said he could do it at his house over a weekend in about 8 hours or so for like $25 an hour so I think I'm doing that.

BugginKJ · **Joined:** Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:35 pm **Posts:** 4576

mikey1273 wrote:

I think I may have found someone to install it. he is a mechanic friend that works at a shop a little bit away but not too far, still in the same county. but he said he could do it at his house over a weekend in about 8 hours or so for like $25 an hour so I think I'm doing that.

Wow I think Tom needs to up his price!
:roll:

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:47 am

BugginKJ wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

I think I may have found someone to install it. he is a mechanic friend that works at a shop a little bit away but not too far, still in the same county. but he said he could do it at his house over a weekend in about 8 hours or so for like $25 an hour so I think I'm doing that.

Wow I think Tom needs to up his price!
:roll:

Thats so right :wink:

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:52 am

mikey1273 wrote:

well the thing is I only have 245/70 on it now at stock height. I'm fine with that and re gearing is quite expensive. I really am not a big daring off roader. only go a few times a years so far as time allows me the reasons for lifting are: 1 for better off road when I do go on forest trails and the like. 2 looks plus its not that much more in my mind than replacing the stock suspension and only gaining back the stock height and ride when you look at the cost of just the springs, struts shocks and labor. the a arms are more but I do want it done right the first time, don't want to mess with it over and over. not willing to deal with the springs banging the a arms and wearing out ball joints all the time.

I don't know if I will get bigger tires or not. I will be keeping what I have until they are worn out. I'm cheap I know but I cant see replacing tires that are still usable now. I don't think I want to go more than 245/75 as it is now I have no issue with the fuel economy and power, the reasons I picked a CRD over a gasser so I don't want to do anything that will put my MPG way down in the toilet. so reasonable height and tires sound like its for me

I will have to PM audioboy about the CV's

I think I may have found someone to install it. he is a mechanic friend that works at a shop a little bit away but not too far, still in the same county. his boss will not let him do it at the shop due to an issue they had with a truck they lifted having an idler arm rip off. they are scared to lift anything in the shop now due to liability but he said he could do it at his house over a weekend in about 8 hours or so for like $25 an hour so I think I'm doing that.

Some things wrong in your observations
If you don't go way high there will be no banging of the UCAs
I ran mine lifted for over 70,000 miles and no issues , UCAs help with alignment more than anything
Don't need the CVs to be cut, if you go 4 plus inches yes you do, plus when you cut them part of the ring where the boot attaches is cut off, which makes it easier for the boot to fail. Never had cut CVs and won't have and I'm over 4 inches of lift
8 hours to lift one ??? :lol:

We've done two and a set of rock rails in that time :wink:

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 17, 2012 3:04 pm

tommudd wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

well the thing is I only have 245/70 on it now at stock height. I'm fine with that and re gearing is quite expensive. I really am not a big daring off roader. only go a few times a years so far as time allows me the reasons for lifting are: 1 for better off road when I do go on forest trails and the like. 2 looks plus its not that much more in my mind than replacing the stock suspension and only gaining back the stock height and ride when you look at the cost of just the springs, struts shocks and labor. the a arms are more but I do want it done right the first time, don't want to mess with it over and over. not willing to deal with the springs banging the a arms and wearing out ball joints all the time.

I don't know if I will get bigger tires or not. I will be keeping what I have until they are worn out. I'm cheap I know but I cant see replacing tires that are still usable now. I don't think I want to go more than 245/75 as it is now I have no issue with the fuel economy and power, the reasons I picked a CRD over a gasser so I don't want to do anything that will put my MPG way down in the toilet. so reasonable height and tires sound like its for me

I will have to PM audioboy about the CV's

I think I may have found someone to install it. he is a mechanic friend that works at a shop a little bit away but not too far, still in the same county. his boss will not let him do it at the shop due to an issue they had with a truck they lifted having an idler arm rip off. they are scared to lift anything in the shop now due to liability but he said he could do it at his house over a weekend in about 8 hours or so for like $25 an hour so I think I'm doing that.

Some things wrong in your observations
If you don't go way high there will be no banging of the UCAs
I ran mine lifted for over 70,000 miles and no issues , UCAs help with alignment more than anything
Don't need the CVs to be cut, if you go 4 plus inches yes you do, plus when you cut them part of the ring where the boot attaches is cut off, which makes it easier for the boot to fail. Never had cut CVs and won't have and I'm over 4 inches of lift
8 hours to lift one ??? :lol:

We've done two and a set of rock rails in that time :wink:

ok I might be wrong about the banging but I did read it somewhere on the forum some time ago.. I do want my alignment correct so I will have them and not have that issue.

I was under the impression that the CRD had more of a limit to how high you can go with out shaved CV joints than the gasser due to the shorter drivers side shaft.....something like 3-3 1/2 inches vs 4 for the gas. what ever it is I want to go high but stay out of the range that requires it for now.

I know 8 hours sounds like a lot to me to but that is about what MT. Zion of road said the number of labor hours would be @ $79.50/hour so he is still cheaper. I am with you thinking it is not an 8 hour job but then he has not done it before and nor have I. there is removing the struts and setting them up with the new springs compressing them and the a arms new bump stops and all to put in too.... Are you saying anyone that has done suspension work should be able to do it in 4 hours? so should I keep looking for an installer or what

Finally lifted my CRD, take a look!

Who is online